1977 High Sierra ole farm truck

[gmachinz]

I know aftermarket is easy to buy, but there's just something fun about using GM NOS parts like core support bushing kits....

[AbigailAmelia]

Hi,

I have a 1977 Sierra Classic with a similar and seemingly original dashboard. Can I try your plastic lens cleaner idea with the dash in place? Is there any downside or risk to this project? I want to keep Abigail as original as possible, so I'm afraid to damage anything.

Second question: what adhesive would you use to reattach the metal detail to the window handle?

Thanks!

Michelle

*** =^..^= ***
1977 GMC K25 Sierra Classic Long bed "Abigail Amelia"
Married to all the pieces of a 1986 Jeep CJ7 and the parts of a 1973 Chevy K5 Blazer

[gmachinz]

I use the plastic lense cleaner on the cluster clear lense but to buff it out I (CAREFULLY) use a Makita variable speed butter with a wool pad. Then, I use a high gloss polish to put a crystal clear shine to the plastic-they turn out looking better than new and are super clear. When I restored the dash and it components, I took everything apart-the truck originally had gauges and a mechanical oil line so I swapped in a 78-79 tach cluster in the process.

As for the trim on the window handle, 3M Super Trim Adhesive found at any parts store will work great for re-applying it. After applying it, wrap the handle a couple times tightly with masking tape for a day while it sets up.

[AbigailAmelia]

Thanks! No, I don't think I have the skill set to try to restore my dash. But thanks for the details for the 3M adhesive. That I can do!

[gmachinz]

Ok...got a few things done...truck is being set up for doors from a 1991 Suburban w/power windows, locks and mirrors. Pics are just snapshots of what it takes to begin modding for factory options on an otherwise plain Jane truck.

The stock 1973-77 fuse panel lacks the much needed space like 1978-up fuse panels but we will make do by adding the correct 1973-77 IGN pigtails as well as another BAT pigtail to run power to the soon to be added power locks. I'm not running the power windows thru the fuse panel-I'll be running a dedicated fused 10-ga lead to the 70A IGN controlled relay mounted above the LH kick panel.

[gmachinz]

Factory power lock relay-this will mount in the factory spot on the pedal assembly bracket to the right side-there are already 2 holes for it.

[gmachinz]

I also added a ground lead from it to insure a good ground to the relay body too.

[gmachinz]

I added a fusible link to the firewall junction-this protects the 10-ga power lead which routes along with the tach signal wire they the firewall and it feeds a 70A relay base-this will handle the express down equipped power window addition.

The hole in the firewall I used for this addition was the one originally being used for the mechanical oil line. It's a 1.25" diameter hole so I used the correct Delphi grommet here too. The open 10-ga lead you see in the pic is the new supply wire for the power window circuit. I'll add the correct connector/terminal then snap it into the fusible link wire.

[gmachinz]

There are factory dimples to guide where to drill the holes for the accessory grommets. The second dimple from the top needs drilled out using a 1.75" hole saw.

[gmachinz]

Here is the hole saw to use for the outer hole...

[gmachinz]

There is an inner panel that wont cut cleanly so it will get trimmed out nice using a carbide cylindrical bit, then I'll use a reamer to round the hole edges smooth.

[gmachinz]

Once the outer hole is drilled, use a small drill bit and drill from the outside in and keep the bit centered as much as possible-this will serve as a guide for drilling the inside hole with an 1.50" hole saw....

[gmachinz]

Here's the one to use to drill the inner hole, using the drillbit hole as a starting guide...

[gmachinz]

Start level and send it through....!

[gmachinz]

There ya go....

[gmachinz]

Looking at it from outside, this is what you should arrive at. Now, just do the same for the RH side! I use Delphi 1.5" wire grommets on my window/lock replacement harnesses and they are slightly different than the OEM GM grommets but fit just as well!

The grommets insert from the inside toward the door and are held centered in place by the inner hole, then they transition into the door jamb boots which will get attached once we are ready to actually run the accessory harness.

[gmachinz]

This is the view of the routing for the alternator leads, the 2 electric fan temp switch triggers, idle stop solenoid run and the new battery charge wire which comes from the firewall junction and extends down the front of the motor behind the AC compressor before eventually routing beneath the motor mount and extending to the starter.

[gmachinz]

Working on adding a NEW cruise control harness and dual tank harness (dash side) this afternoon....also have some Misc wiring to do hence the "assortment" Baggie.....

[gmachinz]

This is why you need doors on to install cabs and rockers...not my work but I need to fix it....

[gmachinz]

Test fitting the 91 Burban doors on the 77.....

[gmachinz]

Restored 78-79 tach ready to go!

[Low Elco]

Neat stuff!

[gmachinz]

Also a really nice grill to be restored soon for this truck as well....

[gmachinz]

Fiddle farted around a little bit on this 77....got the delay/pulse harness half routed-I also decided on using a newer 79+ ground buss to make it easier to add grounds for the extra features this truck will have-(tach ground, power window ground, delay wiper ground).

Still need to enlarge the wiper switch opening-I need to get the motor started so the truck can move again so that's the priority....WIRING!

[gmachinz]

OEM 79-up grounding buss-bar.