11-13-2011, 09:49 PM | #876 |
67cheby
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Re: Make it handle
i am cheering you on from here....wearing my NO LIMITS shirt as i type !! ROCK ON MAN
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11-13-2011, 10:17 PM | #877 |
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Re: Make it handle
Great job Rob ! we could not make it to Pleasonton the Tahoe is on the Dyno at Whipple for some much needed tuning . Congrats on the win!
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11-14-2011, 11:58 AM | #878 |
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Re: Make it handle
Yesterday I got to drive a run in Mike Meair's yellow mustang. A full on race car. I timidly ran a 28.446. To say the least, the car is rocket fast and turns like crazy. Mike was turning 26.200. Then, I put Mike, a 25 yr Autocross driver, in the Bullit, and he ran a 28.643 on a check out pass!!!!! This tells me a lot about tuning what's in the drivers seat.
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11-14-2011, 03:59 PM | #879 |
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Re: Make it handle
This thread has gotten huge. Thank you Rob and everyone here for there Q&A. I have started my front suspension, got it set up in the computer but my next step is to actually weld my suicide mission suspension together. My question is when building the chassis. Should I build my main rails with Dom tubing are just do box tubing? All inner structure will be done in Dom tubing, just wanting to know the best route. Any input will be great. The box tubing will be easier to build off of. But the round I can bend my self so it can flow better, basically look pretty. The Tubing will be more involved to. Is there advantage going with DOM verses box? Thanks again
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11-14-2011, 04:47 PM | #880 | |
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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11-15-2011, 10:04 PM | #881 |
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Re: Make it handle
Hi Rob, back to the camber gain question. I was thinking that a full width 1" front crossmember section would bring the A arms closer together increasing the camber gain similar to the Shelby/Guldstand mods except that the lower arm would be raised rather the lowering the upper arm. To make this work, you'd need 1" lowering springs and combined with dropped spindles, you'd get 3.5" drop with improved geometry? Even though you're using 1" dropped springs, you'd still have normal suspension travel? The dropped springs re-establish the relationship of the LCA to the spring pocket. Would ball joint bind be a problem in normal operation (no frame laying or anything like that)?
While we're looking at this, do the tie rods need to be in a straight line from spindle to spindle to have proper steering geometry? That doesn't happen in the stock design and is one of the things you were trying to correct with the R&P set-up? Inguiring minds want to know.....lol. I am going to figure out how to modify my C10 suspension before next spring and don't want to do it twice. Thanks, the article in ST didn't give you near enough credit.
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11-16-2011, 02:55 AM | #882 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-16-2011, 03:09 AM | #883 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-16-2011, 09:27 AM | #884 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-16-2011, 10:11 AM | #885 |
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Re: Make it handle
Please do! I've been contemplating something VERY similar- would like to see what, if any, benefits come from this.
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11-16-2011, 11:12 AM | #886 |
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Re: Make it handle
Rob, Thinking about making my truck a Trazer or maybe just a topless roadster with a cage. What would you recommend for building the inner structure of the bed area? Was thinking of 1x1 or 1x2, but how thin can I go but keep good strength? I want it to be strong, but as light as I can make it. What did you use when you raised the floor on JT? Also, for overall rigidity, are there gains/losses to tying the frame and rockers together (bolted to allow it to be removed)
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11-16-2011, 04:29 PM | #887 |
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Re: Make it handle
The floor of the JT is all original parts, just raised 4", and it's heavy. You can use .065 wall, as long as you don't drop an engine block on it. Not sue tying the rockers in would help that much, but then again, any little bit helps. 1rst to 2nd in charlotte was .039 sec. If you want to get really trick, form all of your mounts and bracing with .040 aluminum.
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11-16-2011, 05:15 PM | #888 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-21-2011, 10:02 AM | #889 |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-21-2011, 12:43 PM | #890 |
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Re: Make it handle
If you form up nice 3-D mounts, you can use .040 for all sorts of light duty components. Bed, floor and inner tubbs and mounts, Dash, inner panels, guage pods. Cooling and electronics mounts. If you need to shock mount something, such as electronics, check out the rubber isolators used for Harley oil tanks.
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11-21-2011, 12:46 PM | #891 |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-21-2011, 01:26 PM | #892 |
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Re: Make it handle
Definitely agree there, not bad @ all. I just felt that car had the makings of being THE winner.
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11-22-2011, 02:29 PM | #893 | |
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Make it handle - 73-87 Upper A arm
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And then again maybe it's just better to bite the bullit...and get a complete lightweight performance front clip... will you be offering anything like this in the future Rob...?
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11-22-2011, 03:11 PM | #894 |
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Re: Make it handle
The idea of swapping arms has bee tossed around. The 1 3/4" move back on the upper ball joint would add about 9 deg of caster. - may be too much added to the stock 2 deg. Also, the arm is tilted at the ball joint, and swapping sides makes the ball joint tip backwards, I haven't tried it, but i think it may bind, or be right at the edge. Also, just moving the top back will also move the front centerline back. The smart way is to move both arms. Bottom forward 3/4", top back 1/2", would be the ticket.
Bad ass pict!!
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11-22-2011, 07:07 PM | #895 |
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Re: Make it handle
I haven't messed with my truck because I've been busy and I had to take it home because they are doing construction at my work. I havent finished aligning my truck yet (except for toe). Maybe after Tgiving I'll swap the upper A arms, put it on the rack and see what happens.
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11-23-2011, 09:00 AM | #896 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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Thanks
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11-23-2011, 11:58 AM | #897 | |
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Re: Make it handle
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11-23-2011, 01:06 PM | #898 |
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Re: Make it handle
On 63-87 C-10's, this is pretty easy. For the lower arms, remove the arm, and drill a new index hole in the cross shaft. I usually rotate the shaft 90 deg., then drill a new hole 3/4" back. You may need to grind a small amount off of the rear lip of the crossmember (more comon on 73-87) so that the bushing clears fine. Then bolt the arm back on. For the uppers, knock all the rivits out, unbolt the upper A-arm mount and slide it back. Weld it to the crossmember, and drill out the mount to fit the frame. Use grade #8 bolts and washers to bolt it back to the frame.
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11-23-2011, 01:34 PM | #899 | |
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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11-23-2011, 11:43 PM | #900 |
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Re: Make it handle
there is a slight change, but it actually reduces some of the factory bump-steer. More than the front/back position, when you 'tip' the spindle back to gain caster, it raises the steering arm slightly, and this also helps the factory steering geometry a bit.
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