Xmember install progress - Page 4 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Captkaos** · 03-23-2005, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bagged72blaz

I'm curious to why the crossmember mod effects the postion of the engine? Would it not raise with the crossmember? If not couldn't you shim the motor mounts higher?

It didn't effect the engine posistion. XXL is running an inline6 and you can't drop the pan on them, unlike the V8. Remember the V8 engine stands have a higher mounting posistion than a I6 has.

XXL · 03-23-2005, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slammed67

I don't think the x-member mod had anything to do with the pan clearance. The height of the top of the x-member where the engine stands mount didn't change. I don't think the original design allowed for easy pan removal.

Correct on all counts. The pan was simply too tight to remove without MAJOR engine lifting (waaaay off the mounts, which required unbuckling the tranny). It's still slammed67's fault somehow... I'll make some kind of connection back to him. Maybe it was the amount of beer used to install the xmember (??)

DM310 · 03-24-2005, 12:21 AM

After reading about the oil pan issue, I ran out to my truck and took a look and it seems that I will be running into the same prob as you (292 motor) after I finish up my crossmember. I was looking at what I would have to do to get around this and my options are either mod the oil pan and maybe the pick up or raise the motor and trans up but if I do that then I have to mod the shift rods (3 on the tree) and clutch lever. Right now it seem like the oil pan would be easier.

XXL · 03-28-2005, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DM310

After reading about the oil pan issue, I ran out to my truck and took a look and it seems that I will be running into the same prob as you (292 motor) after I finish up my crossmember. I was looking at what I would have to do to get around this and my options are either mod the oil pan and maybe the pick up or raise the motor and trans up but if I do that then I have to mod the shift rods (3 on the tree) and clutch lever. Right now it seem like the oil pan would be easier.

250 oil pan _should_ bolt right up and give you additional clearance. Make sure you get the pick-up tube that's on the donor 250.

DM310 · 03-28-2005, 02:54 PM

thanks but I am not sure how the 250 pan will help me out? Is that not the pan you have and had issues w/?

XXL · 03-28-2005, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DM310

thanks but I am not sure how the 250 pan will help me out? Is that not the pan you have and had issues w/?

Yes, but it's shallower than the 292 pan, so you would reduce the issue _somewhat_ by using one. Beyond that, I guess you'd have to start cutting the pan down even further... or go with a dry sump ($$).

REPO1 · 03-28-2005, 08:07 PM

What did you guys come up with on the upper A arm mounting studs? I know that the upper arms on the '80+ trucks had a beveled washer that fit into the inside of the upper a arm.

But something I noticed, where the a arm mounting stud comes through the frame it has a washer that is beveled outward. A flat shim couldn't sit flat against something like this?

The '80+ trucks have a flat spacer that is agains the frame. Now I can see how this would work properly as it is a flat surface for the shims to sit against. Did the early trucks have 1 more piece that sat against the beveled spacer against the frame?

**Hart_Rod** · 09-13-2005, 11:35 PM

Same question as Repo 1. Are there spacers that are cupped on both side?

rob

**Captkaos** · 11-23-2005, 01:28 PM

Bump for those with questions.

XXL · 01-07-2006, 07:59 PM

The circled u-joint is now available if anyone needs one for their xmember drop. It's double-D on one side and splined for our steering columns on the other. I now have a late model column, so don't need it.

It's genuine Borgeson, so cost a pretty penny. I'm easy... and cheap. PM me if interested.

fletch4x4 · 01-08-2006, 01:21 AM

pm'd ya

SCOTI · 04-09-2006, 11:44 PM

Digging this one out of the closet & dusting it off.

I actually yanked the front suspension off my Beater today to trial fit my 1.5" notched crossmember & I found severe clearance issues. It looks like I would have to trim the crossmember all the way back to the small reinforcement plates the u-bolts go through & then I would prob have an issue w/the u-bolt itself.

XXL, could you get a pic of how much material was trimmed for tie-rod clearance near the lower a-arm u-bolt area?

XXL · 04-10-2006, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

XXL, could you get a pic of how much material was trimmed for tie-rod clearance near the lower a-arm u-bolt area?

If I understand what you're describing... none. The only clearancing for the steering linkage parts was a little grinding on one side. Maybe you can get me a picture so I know for sure what you're talking about... and then I can get you a picture

Slammed67 · 04-10-2006, 02:19 PM

I think he is referring to this area.....

Not sure exactly how much I ground off, but it was just enough to provide clearance. I assume you want to do this before you install the xmember, which is a good idea. Maybe XXL can snap some pics to give you an idea of how much to grind off.

SCOTI · 04-10-2006, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slammed67

.... Not sure exactly how much I ground off, but it was just enough to provide clearance. I assume you want to do this before you install the xmember, which is a good idea. Maybe XXL can snap some pics to give you an idea of how much to grind off.

Yep, I figured it would be easier to test fit & trim any required areas before installing it w/a motor & everything else in the way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL

.... Maybe you can get me a picture so I know for sure what you're talking about... and then I can get you a picture.

I pulled the crossmember back out last night & today @ lunch I went ahead & trimmed what I knew was in the way. I still think I'll be pretty close to the 'outside' nut of the front u-bolt but won't know until I re-install the c-member. I'll take some pics when it's back in showing where the interference is (was?).

project76 · 04-10-2006, 10:36 PM

I have another question too. Before the chop the crossmember bolted through the side of the frame rail with 4 bolts near the upper control arm. After the chop it looked like only 1 made its way back in by looking at the pics. Since the top 2 are obviously above the rail now, Did you guys drill new holes in the cross member to put bolts in lower.

XXL · 04-10-2006, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project76

Did you guys drill new holes in the cross member to put bolts in lower.

No... wait... yes, new holes.

el curioso · 04-11-2006, 08:43 PM

where whould we be with out the three majical adhesives: Duck tape, j-b weld and super glue.

camaro__thunder · 04-12-2006, 03:48 AM

weld it

XXL · 04-12-2006, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaro__thunder

weld it

Once

I see no down side to redrilling and bolting it back up. It can be serviced, replaced (when you have a moment of insanity and let your wife drive it, and she "grazes" a curb). And it's certainly solidly mounted.

low · 09-12-2006, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL

I drove my truck up to slammed67's place this weekend for the xmember swap. Here's progress...

how much for a dropp crossember can you build how much of a drop is your crossember.does it change the rest of suspention mike can i call you

**Captkaos** · 09-12-2006, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by low

how much for a dropp crossember can you build how much of a drop is your crossember.does it change the rest of suspention mike can i call you

I chopped the crossmember for XXL (plus others...) It is 1.5", it lowers the frame down 1.5", or the whole front suspension up 1.5" depending on what your perspective is. If you want, you can reach me M-F 9am - 5pm at 205-410-4899. Leave a message if I don't answer with name, number and what you are calling about.
Cost is $425 + $100 (or a core) + shipping (depending on location)

deoncollins69 · 12-22-2006, 08:32 PM

When the crossmember comes in what would it include? I am looking at a set of lca's and spindles. If this thing is complete I would rather go this way. The other route I may go is a custom IFS frotn end. Thanks Deon Collins

XXL · 12-22-2006, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deoncollins69

When the crossmember comes in what would it include?

It'll be a crossmember that's been notched. You have to supply the crossmember.

For 1.5" notch, you'll need some steering parts. See earlier posts to this thread for details.

jlaird · 12-22-2006, 10:18 PM

captkaos, how do you ship the crossmembers? UPS? $40 seems cheap for such a heavy thing.

03-28-2005, 08:07 PM	#82
REPO1 Shortbox wanna-be. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 773	What did you guys come up with on the upper A arm mounting studs? I know that the upper arms on the '80+ trucks had a beveled washer that fit into the inside of the upper a arm. But something I noticed, where the a arm mounting stud comes through the frame it has a washer that is beveled outward. A flat shim couldn't sit flat against something like this? The '80+ trucks have a flat spacer that is agains the frame. Now I can see how this would work properly as it is a flat surface for the shims to sit against. Did the early trucks have 1 more piece that sat against the beveled spacer against the frame? Attached Images __________________ 1970 Chevy C20 Custom Camper 402BB Turbo 400 trans. (Slowly becoming a '70 shortbox 1/2 ton) '71 Camaro SS 402/T400 resto '97 Z28 (11.41@127MPH) Last edited by REPO1; 03-28-2005 at 08:12 PM.

09-13-2005, 11:35 PM	#83
Hart_Rod ************* Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 17,858	Same question as Repo 1. Are there spacers that are cupped on both side? rob __________________ Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3

11-23-2005, 01:28 PM	#84
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	Re: Xmember install progress Bump for those with questions. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-07-2006, 07:59 PM	#85
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Re: Xmember install progress The circled u-joint is now available if anyone needs one for their xmember drop. It's double-D on one side and splined for our steering columns on the other. I now have a late model column, so don't need it. It's genuine Borgeson, so cost a pretty penny. I'm easy... and cheap. PM me if interested. Attached Images __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

01-08-2006, 01:21 AM	#86
fletch4x4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Central CT Posts: 237	Re: Xmember install progress pm'd ya __________________ Bagged/Turbo 1970 GMC C-10 Crew Cab 1984 Chevy R-20

03-24-2005, 12:21 AM	#78
DM310 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 256	After reading about the oil pan issue, I ran out to my truck and took a look and it seems that I will be running into the same prob as you (292 motor) after I finish up my crossmember. I was looking at what I would have to do to get around this and my options are either mod the oil pan and maybe the pick up or raise the motor and trans up but if I do that then I have to mod the shift rods (3 on the tree) and clutch lever. Right now it seem like the oil pan would be easier.

03-28-2005, 02:54 PM	#80
DM310 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 256	thanks but I am not sure how the 250 pan will help me out? Is that not the pan you have and had issues w/?

04-09-2006, 11:44 PM	#87
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	Re: Xmember install progress Digging this one out of the closet & dusting it off. I actually yanked the front suspension off my Beater today to trial fit my 1.5" notched crossmember & I found severe clearance issues. It looks like I would have to trim the crossmember all the way back to the small reinforcement plates the u-bolts go through & then I would prob have an issue w/the u-bolt itself. XXL, could you get a pic of how much material was trimmed for tie-rod clearance near the lower a-arm u-bolt area? __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

04-10-2006, 02:19 PM	#89
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Re: Xmember install progress I think he is referring to this area..... Not sure exactly how much I ground off, but it was just enough to provide clearance. I assume you want to do this before you install the xmember, which is a good idea. Maybe XXL can snap some pics to give you an idea of how much to grind off. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

04-10-2006, 10:36 PM	#91
project76 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Cecil County Maryland Posts: 135	Re: Xmember install progress I have another question too. Before the chop the crossmember bolted through the side of the frame rail with 4 bolts near the upper control arm. After the chop it looked like only 1 made its way back in by looking at the pics. Since the top 2 are obviously above the rail now, Did you guys drill new holes in the cross member to put bolts in lower. __________________ Brandon project 67 swb bagged on 20" Coddingtons

04-11-2006, 08:43 PM	#93
el curioso Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: El paso, Tx. Posts: 428	Re: Xmember install progress where whould we be with out the three majical adhesives: Duck tape, j-b weld and super glue.

04-12-2006, 03:48 AM	#94
camaro__thunder Epoxy Primer Friendly Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: South of Houston TEXXXAS Posts: 680	Re: Xmember install progress weld it __________________ My Project 69 SWB SHAVED BAGGED DOORED

12-22-2006, 08:32 PM	#98
deoncollins69 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rantoul ILL Posts: 15	Re: Xmember install progress When the crossmember comes in what would it include? I am looking at a set of lca's and spindles. If this thing is complete I would rather go this way. The other route I may go is a custom IFS frotn end. Thanks Deon Collins Last edited by deoncollins69; 12-22-2006 at 08:34 PM.

12-22-2006, 10:18 PM	#100
jlaird Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: johnstown, NY Posts: 2,393	Re: Xmember install progress captkaos, how do you ship the crossmembers? UPS? $40 seems cheap for such a heavy thing.



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