Pics of trucks in Primer Paint

[fryer1979]

Just keep in mind that primer alone will not seal out water and moisture. You should either have an epoxy primer underneath, or some kind of paint (colored or clear coat) over the top. I like the red and tan idea BTW, I can see it pretty clearly in my mind and I think it would be a good look.

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by irish1966

How long do those filters last? I'm planning on experimenting with some rustoleum paint and I am just curious.

I believe the disposable filters are good for about 8 hours of production spraying, although I can’t find a link spelling out a time. Long ago they had charcoal inside which only lasts so long. I’m not sure how they are constructed now. When I’m painting multiple batches of parts over several days or weeks, I do my spraying then remove the filter and seal it in a ziplock bag. I’ve used some for a couple of months without experiencing a water problem. When I’m painting an entire vehicle I always buy a new one. I’m pretty sure they are still less than $5 at the local paint store.

The water traps I’ve used in the past (at the compressor) last indefinitely since they have a simple drain to remove the water. There are far more expensive types that use filters or desiccant, but as a hobby painter I’ve never found a need.

Originally Posted by fryer1979

Also Mark: thanks for the link on those disposable filters, I've been looking for just that for a while now.

That happened to be the first link I found. Not that it matters, but the type I normally use look more like this:

Amazon.com: SPRAY GUN FILTERS :: Disposable:...
I think they could be found for less cost with a bit more searching.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks markebo1,
I (obviously) know NOTHING about spraying Rustoleum or anything other paint. I've only ever used ordinary mineral spirits to thin or clean it up. I know you're not telling me/us to use that, so what do we use?

Experiment with the thinning ratio or where do we start?

The at-gun throwaway water filter is sufficient because I always had the impression you were supposed to use that WITH the permanent at-compressor type water separator?

[tapeworm]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks markebo1,
I (obviously) know NOTHING about spraying Rustoleum or anything other paint. I've only ever used ordinary mineral spirits to thin or clean it up. I know you're not telling me/us to use that, so what do we use?

Experiment with the thinning ratio or where do we start?

The at-gun throwaway water filter is sufficient because I always had the impression you were supposed to use that WITH the permanent at-compressor type water separator?

Apparently, the Rustoleum can be sprayed with no thinning using the right gun. I tried to thin it once, but didn't work so well.

With just about any paint, there are usually instructions on what ratio to thin the paint.

Spraying primer or flat paint is pretty easy; even I managed with this one.

The paint was Durabuild primer if I remember correctly

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks markebo1,
I (obviously) know NOTHING about spraying Rustoleum or anything other paint. I've only ever used ordinary mineral spirits to thin or clean it up. I know you're not telling me/us to use that, so what do we use?

Experiment with the thinning ratio or where do we start?

The at-gun throwaway water filter is sufficient because I always had the impression you were supposed to use that WITH the permanent at-compressor type water separator?

I just went out in the garage and looked at a can of gloss Rustoleum. The instructions say “If thinning is necessary, thin material only with mineral spirits or acetone”. Most people that buy this type of paint are going to use it for some type of household project and aren’t aware there are any other options available beyond what their local hardware store carries. If the paint is going to be applied with a spray gun and it’s too thick to flow through a spray gun, thinning it will allow it to feed through the spray head. In addition to getting through the gun, mineral spirits will tend to make the paint more “runny” during drying, while acetone will tend to cause it to dry significantly faster. If a “flat” paint is being sprayed, acetone will generally make it dry very fast (the more acetone the faster the drying) to the point it comes out looking rough and chalky. Spraying paint straight out of the can will also work, but requires a large tip in the spray gun or the paint will clog the gun. This is why people say they use a “primer gun” which generally has a very large tip to flow heavy solids paint.

Whether spraying straight from the can or by using mineral spirits or acetone, the main variable is the thickness of the paint. If it’s too thick the finish will orange peel because it doesn’t flow out well during drying, if it’s too thin it is more likely to produce runs especially on the vertical surfaces.

This is why I always use Acrylic Enamel Reducer when spraying any enamel paint. It’s more expensive and must be purchased at an auto paint supply store, but it allows you to change the properties of how the paint flows and the finish it produces. I learned these concepts years ago when all the cars I painted had a gloss finish. If I painted on a cool day, high speed thinner would tend to make the paint set up faster so it didn’t sag or drip. If it was a hot day, slow speed thinner would allow the paint to flow out better for a nice smooth gloss finish. On an average day when I might be able to use normal or medium speed thinner, I would try to lean toward a bit more slow thinner in the mix, so the paint would really flow out into a beautiful glassy smooth finish, just short of producing runs. This is the mix I used to paint the grille and front bumper with Rustoleum gloss white.

Acrylic enamel reducer contains more expensive chemicals designed for automotive paint. In addition to better managing the speed of drying, it also produces a nicer looking finish.

Which speed thinner to choose depends a great deal on when you intend to paint. For a relatively inexpensive way to experiment, I’d suggest start by getting two quarts of acrylic enamel reducer. If it’s cold, buy and quart of medium and a quart of high speed thinner. If it’s hot, try medium and slow thinner. Start with the medium speed thinner. Mix up a small batch and shoot a test spray on something (old toys, a dead garbage can, whatever is available). If it doesn’t produce what you want, change to or add the other speed thinner and just keep track of what mix produced which result. Disposable paper cups are convenient for measuring small batches of paint. As mentioned earlier it sounds complicated but really isn’t. It doesn’t take that long to mix up a batch or to find out if you like the result.

I’ve used both PPG Delstar and Dupont Centari acrylic enamel reducer because it is what my local paint shops carry, but any name brand will work just fine with hardware store enamel. In the PPG line the breakdown by part number is:

DTR600 Fast (below 65 degrees)
DTR601 Moderate Temperatures (60-75 degrees)
DTR602 Medium Temperatures (70-90 degrees)
DTR604 Slow - Hot Temperatures (85 degrees and above)

In the Dupont Centari line the part numbers are:

8034S 65-75 degrees
8022S 70-85 degrees
8093S 70-90 degrees
8096S over 90 degrees

The part numbers may change between quarts and gallons, but the above provides a reference point so you know what to ask for.

And yes, a permanent water separator is essential or the disposable filter at the gun can be overwhelmed and fail. If you have the option, it’s better to mount the separator farther downstream from the compressor as it will collect more water than being mounted directly to the compressor outlet. Before I had a hard line system I mounted the water trap half way across the garage from the compressor and connected it with a piece of hose, and it did seem to help collect more water.

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by tapeworm

Apparently, the Rustoleum can be sprayed with no thinning using the right gun. I tried to thin it once, but didn't work so well.

With just about any paint, there are usually instructions on what ratio to thin the paint.

Spraying primer or flat paint is pretty easy; even I managed with this one.

The paint was Durabuild primer if I remember correctly

Attachment 649375

That Fleetline turned out cherry. The 47-48 fastback is one of my top two all time favorite cars.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the info and apologies for making you write all that out...but it will really help when I try to do this. I plan on waiting to Spring and doing my bed one part at a time to experiment.

Tapeworm, I agree with markebo1, the car turned out nice. I would never have thought the true red Rallys would look good against flat red oxide but it looks really good. What's the "rest of the story" with that car? Was it yours? WHat became of it? RUnning gear etc. Even though I have the '46 trtuck I know squat about pre '55 Chevy's so I assumed this was a '46 model!

[LostMy65]

Thanks for the detailed post, Mark.
Posted via Mobile Device

[tapeworm]

Thanks for the comments guys! Got to love a car that is almost chopped from the factory!

Its a 48 which I bought and sold around 03-04. It already had a 350, Muncie 57 rear and drop spindles.

My friends helped me patch up the front fenders, and put a Nova sub under it (one of the aftermarket drop spindles actually broke on me!)

I ended up selling it when the neighbors 48 Pontiac became for sale. It was a four door, but really nice, and something a little different.

Thanks for the paint tips! Since my 64 shortbox has turned into a big project, I bought a 55 Pontiac a couple weeks a ago for a driver. This will surely get a flat black paint job in the spring.

[LostMy65]

Just thought I'd copy and paste this from Rustoleum's FAQ page:

Q - Can I use Rusty Metal Primer and
Clean Metal Primer on my car?
A - Stops Rust Auto Primer is formulated
for use with automotive touch up
paints. Rusty Metal and Clean Metal
Primers should only be used if top
coated with Rust-Oleum paint.

Q - Can I use Rusty Metal Primer on
clean metal?
A - No. The fish oil that is in the primer
needs to penetrate into rust to seal
out air and moisture. If there is no
rust, the oil will rise to the surface
making adhesion of the finish coat
difficult.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good addition.

[rightpedal]

Not exactly primer but along the theme of the thread.



The truck is too hammered and rusty to do anything serious with. I did a two day scuff and shoot. I used a 5" ridgid orbital sander and some 180 grit to get the big stuff and some 220 by hand over the whole truck. The primer is summit racing white sealer. The paint is rustolium 50/50 mix of gloss white and flat white. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits for the same reasons Mark stated above (spectacular write up BTW).





The top is an implement paint that my shop mate had laying around. I wish I had more time to experiment with it. I shot it with mostly mineral sprites and it took forever to dry.



Steve

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'd like to see some closeups in good light that show the level of shine. Seems like the red in your in-process shots is still wet.

[rightpedal]

Sorry no close ups. The truck is still sleeping in Montana and I am in Maryland. The red stayed nice and glossy. The white turned out semi-gloss/satin. In the spring when I go and pick up the truck I will take a couple of shots. The link on my sig has more pictures.

Steve

[primrrd]

2k nason primer
It gets chalky after about 1 to 1.5 years...

[primrrd]

this time with the picture...

[primrrd]

grr.. i give up. see my primrrd truck in the avatar...

[oldblue1968chevy]

cool thread im in!

? for you experts lol

My truck is baby blue, I found a spraypaint can VERY close to it that I do touchups with (wash truck touch up with paint lol)

To spray the whole thing with baby blue rustoleum spray paint what're some simple prep. steps?

Sand with what # paper?

I have dents/rust spots that wont be fixed for some time what do i do with those? bondo and try to pound out?

wipe down with what?

prime with what?

?sand again with what # paper?

spraypaint with how many coats?

?wetsand?

I have NO idea on any of this but am interested, some of you guys make it look easy/good. here is a pic of the truck cleaned up nice

[firefighter736]

I think MarkB's Blitz Black just wooed me away from Hot Rod Flatz.

[markeb01]

The problem I have with flattened urethane paint is the cost and the amount of work needed, to create something that is suppose to look like an early low budget primer job. I did Blitz Black because it was cheap and can be sprayed over just about anything. With urethane, the substrates need to be compatible all the way to bare metal, which means the same amount work and expense as any high dollar paint job.

There’s also the difficulty of arriving at the exact level of gloss/flatness. Hot Rod Flatz claims to be blended and packaged with the desired level of gloss, but for anyone mixing flattening agent into gloss paint, consistency can be difficult to achieve for an amateur painter (and apparently many professional as well). For a couple of years before I painted my truck I spoke with every owner I could find that was running flat or low gloss paint jobs. Those with the high end urethane jobs had most of the horror stories about how many times they had to reshoot the car or truck to get the all over uniform finish they wanted. This might be due to differences in the paint, but I think it’s mostly because those that shoot urethane have so much labor and money invested they are driven to have the results come out looking perfect, just like with a high gloss finish.

[firefighter736]

Originally Posted by markeb01

The problem I have with flattened urethane paint is the cost and the amount of work needed, to create something that is suppose to look like an early low budget primer job. I did Blitz Black because it was cheap and can be sprayed over just about anything. With urethane, the substrates need to be compatible all the way to bare metal, which means the same amount work and expense as any high dollar paint job.

There’s also the difficulty of arriving at the exact level of gloss/flatness. Hot Rod Flatz claims to be blended and packaged with the desired level of gloss, but for anyone mixing flattening agent into gloss paint, consistency can be difficult to achieve for an amateur painter (and apparently many professional as well). For a couple of years before I painted my truck I spoke with every owner I could find that was running flat or low gloss paint jobs. Those with the high end urethane jobs had most of the horror stories about how many times they had to reshoot the car or truck to get the all over uniform finish they wanted. This might be due to differences in the paint, but I think it’s mostly because those that shoot urethane have so much labor and money invested they are driven to have the results come out looking perfect, just like with a high gloss finish.

Thanks for the reply!

If you had to put a dollar figure on it, how much would you say you have in your paint job?

The idea of blitz black is alluring due to the fact that my truck will never be a show truck (at least not while I have it...) and I want something to ride around and not be scared to drive. Mix that in with the fact that the majority of us are running on lean budgets and Blitz Black seems like the obvious choice.

[markeb01]

That’s exactly why I used it, I've had more fun with the truck since the blitz black than I ever did when it was wearing shiny paint. I drive it everywhere now. Before I used to worry about the paint getting scratched.

I originally painted the truck in gloss black lacquer (which chips easily) nearly 15 years ago. It was my daily driver for a 72 mile commute for 9 years and we lived on a rock road, so the paint really took a beating. Due to the number of chips, and since I didn’t want to disassemble the truck to strip all the lacquer I just feather edged everything and then surfaced the bad areas with U-Pol primer (applied with a roller). I also removed all the seam sealer on the roof and resealed it with self-leveling Evercoat Maxim.

I bought two gallons of paint (just in case) and used about 5 quarts to paint the exterior. I didn’t paint inside the bed. It was either $30 a gallon or $50 a gallon. I don’t remember for sure and lost my receipts in a computer crash back in August. With all that, some thinner, Rage body filler, and sand paper I probably had another $100-$150 dollars invested when it was all done. So it cost somewhere a little over $200 for the whole job.

[Haram]

2006,2008,2009,Present day

[tripleD]

john deere blitz black is the only way to go!!!

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by Haram

2006,2008,2009,Present day

Excellent transition, I like the latest version best. Nice looking truck to begin with.