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Old 06-03-2010, 11:11 PM   #76
Rich 5150 69
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Some use the heat sink plate that resides under the carb...
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_..._spacers.shtml
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:19 PM   #77
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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randy before you go any further, you have a four brrl intake with a holley 600 4160 carb, hei dizzy, but you have a terrible intake manifold leak all the way around, you`ll needto pull the entire manifold, clean the surfaces well, with new gaskets, a light coating of silicone on the intake bolt threads to seal everythng up.
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Old 06-04-2010, 12:00 AM   #78
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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Some use the heat sink plate that resides under the carb...
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_..._spacers.shtml
That's what I'd like to do. This is the one I want. If I can't find it locally tomorrow I'll just order this one but that means the truck is down for the weekend. That would be a bummer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/

New problem. The manifold is used and the PO cross threaded the nipple for the hose to the heater core. It was for a 5/8" hose so I was switching it out for a 3/4" hose nipple. I'll have to try to tap it out if I can find a tap big enough.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:14 AM   #79
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Picture of the carnage.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:32 AM   #80
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Next time all bolts are inserted into alum manifold threads, use never seize on of them, then the likely hood of that happening again will greatly deminish.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:53 AM   #81
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

I hope this manifold has a next time.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:02 AM   #82
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

If you're going to tap the threads with the manifold installed, make sure to hold a shop vac directly against the tap to minimize the risk of dropping debris in the manifold, and back the tap up frequently to easily clear the aluminum bits. Any chunks that circulate are likely to damage the water pump.

Also, if you're using a spreadbore manifold with a square bore carburetor there is suppose to be a sealing plate under the carb. That's the reason for the two gaskets, one below and one above the plate. Here's an example:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2732/?rtype=10
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:34 AM   #83
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Another tip for tapping threads. Put some grease on the tap and the chips will stick to the grease and not fall inside. Go slow. Clean and regrease often.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:29 PM   #84
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Excellent tip. That's never occurred to me. Once again I've learned something new. Thanks!
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:51 PM   #85
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Well that went better than expected. Thanks for the tips.

I also ended up buying an adapter plate which I don't think is the best design but I want to get it on the road so I went with it.
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:22 PM   #86
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

That heater nipple looks fine. Most people would never know if you didn't tell them.

What is it you don't like about the carb adapter?

Ray
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:57 PM   #87
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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That heater nipple looks fine. Most people would never know if you didn't tell them.

What is it you don't like about the carb adapter?

Ray
That's the new nipple.

What I don't like about the adapter is the way the venturis splay out at angles. Just seems that it would mess with the flow of air/gas mixture. The primaries angle toward the front cylinders and the secondaries angle toward the rear cylinders. It's probably just my perseption of how it should flow, but I'm not an engineer so I'm most likely wrong.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #88
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

I am an a old guy and have forgot more then the kids will ever learn , after the suggested repairs , I would do the manual choke conversion .
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:54 PM   #89
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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I am an a old guy and have forgot more then the kids will ever learn , after the suggested repairs , I would do the manual choke conversion .
are you older than Stodder?
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:29 PM   #90
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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Old 03-14-2013, 10:21 AM   #91
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Nope , even I think thats old
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:31 PM   #92
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Smile Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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You guys are amazing !!!!!!!!!!!

Rich,
Yikes !!!!! I have no idea about such things. So, the 305 heads are okay, but I need to add a valve cover breather? Can you elaborate or refer me to a link? Also, how can you tell that's a 600 Holley?

Geezer,
Thanks for the help. I'm going to change the carb to a manual choke after I fix the intake gasket, so that little red wire is history.

Mark,
You da man. After inspecting the engine today, and with the engine running, I pretty much felt that the gasket needed replacing. But the old guy who rebuilt it........well, I thought he knew what he was doing. I hope there's not other major problems lurking.

Additional questions:

1) Which manual choke carb should I put on it? 4GC? Quad? Edelbrock?
Keep in mind that I want the easiest replacement, i.e. compatibility with my intake manifold......and the most reliable with ease of maintenance. OEM is no longer a concern.
2) If you think I need a new intake, tell me......I don't want to have to re-do this thing later.
3) re: HEI ...... do I need to do anything with this, i.e. adjusting, checking for wear, etc? I know about points and condensers.....HEI is greek.
4) Gas tank --- the old guy pulled the tank, broke up the rust with a chain inside, and then used a tank sealer. But he only used one gallon and 2 are recommended for a 20 gallon tank. Am I probably ok here, or should I spend the $200 and put a new one in while I'm in the mood to fix everything?

(Oh......apologies to all you "old guys" out there. I'm an old guy, too......but the guy who rebuilt this was a little older than me......and I don't want to mention his name in case he's a member of this forum.)

Thanks SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much, guys !!!!!

Randy
Hi Randy, and since we now have apologies to us old guys, please let me tell you what I THINK, maybe not KNOW.
(1) I agree with Mark about tabling the idea of a new carb. Concentrate on present Holley. And, why spend 25-30$ on a manual choke? With proper adjustments(and there are several) on your electric one, some of us by far prefer it over a manual. Personally, I'd pay to convert FROM manual TO electric. If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, pay a competent person--you have 25-30$ from NOT buying the manual conversion, which would still need some of the adjustments made even with it!--to adjust the electric one and explain to you what/why he makes each adjustment. They work so nicely--and automatically!

(2) As far as needing an additional breather on the other valve cover, I'd check further, as I THINK the cap/breather on the add-oil spout is all the breathing it needs--I THINK at least some came that way. That spout opens directly into the area under the intake and above the lifter valleys, giving lots of breathing--think circular path, going IN the fill-cap-breather and OUT the pcv-valve. NOW, if it did not have that breather-spout at all, I'd prefer putting a breather on other v-cover to get flow thru BOTH valve covers. REMEMBER, these are thoughts!

(3) As far as needing intake gaskets, if it is leaking oil underneath then, yes change them. If not leaking oil, you still ought to check for intake vacuum leaks. With engine idling, spray WD-40, slowly, around the mating surface of the intake. If idle speed changes noticeably, prolly by speeding up a tad, it indicates a vacuum leak. Again, change them. Mark gave good advice re: replacing int. gaskets: discarding the end gaskets and using a 'gasket-maker' as he described. That squeezed-out portion on the front was likely caused by someone putting gasket sealer on the end-gaskets--it happened every time I installed them that way--then an "older" mechanic told me to use one or the other on the ends. Sure enough, going on dry stopped the squeezing-out of ends--until I eventually ended up using silicone instead.

(4) You can check for carb vacuum leaks the same as above, with WD-40. Spraying around the carb base gasket(s) should indicate if there are vacuum leaks there. Avoid false indications: if some WD goes into carb, it will affect idle speed like vacuum leaks.

(*) My thought-summary: Work the bugs out of that carb and enjoy its fruits. With the elec. choke properly adjusted, when cold like 1st thing in the mornings, depress accelerator to floor ONCE, remove foot and 'put it in your pocket' while you turn the key to start, let it start right up running at a fast idle, then after a very few seconds bump accelerator--empty pocket first-- ONCE to let it drop down lower on the fast-idle cam and slow down, and drive off with NO hesitations while it heats up and disengages itself completely.

Enjoy that ride and learn lots.
sam
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #93
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Guys this is old thread that has been resolved, not sure how it resurfaced.....
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #94
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Talking Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

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Guys this is old thread that has been resolved, not sure how it resurfaced.....
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I think that some old guy who now says that he is not that old and may have some memory problems found it.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:49 PM   #95
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283


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Old 03-14-2013, 01:02 PM   #96
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Red face Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

Maybe the original resolution can be changed to our more up-to-date suggestions!

Somebody said it right when he called me an old guy--WITH an old guy's eyesight concerning dates!!!
sam
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:09 PM   #97
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Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283

It's ok we've all done it.....after all that write you start looking at the posting dates, good write up anyways...
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