All about heaters.

[j.kirn]

Originally Posted by j.kirn

I have a complete NOS deluxe 1 in box i will have to post pics when i get a chance to get to it

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by ABX131

I was told using a blower motor out of a suburban that has rear air and heat vents in an earlier truck, like my 63' will give you a ton of force through the shorter ductwork...the motors should be interchangeable.

Thats a great idea

[tc64]

mine is a deluxe with that outside control arm missing.without this thread i never would have figured it out.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

When Bubba327 changed out his heater core for the larger core he had to open up his upper lid the accomidate the larger core, as shown in the pic above....my upper section is already larger/factory but has a notch in it for a block off plate, I`m assumming that this would be a later design as to cut costs one box fits all...? I ended up with a smaller core only because I could`nt find a larger core locally, made a quick plate from alumimun. Anybody have pics as to how the factory hung the core in the box.....?

I opened mine up today.
Somebody put the smaller core in mine and left the rest wide open.
I guess I could make a plate like like you did.

[jbgroby]

Ok I have something to ad to the thread that is a bit puzzling. I decided to take the heater box apart and start the dry fit to see what core I might need. I have a "large" core with the Ranco valve, have not decided as of yet whether I'm going to keep this set up or not and just go with a hand turn valve under the hood. I a bit of a purest so I'm torn between the OEM look and less aggravation.

I took the top off of the box and discovered that although the firewall has the proper hole in it for a the control cable to pass, the deluxe heater box does not? I snapped some pictures of everything for the record and everyone’s reference. I also took pictures of the core with the Ranco valve in situ, to see how it all lines up. It seems to fit well and I’m hoping that the core and Ranco valve will be usable. I bought the valve off eBay about 3 years back. IF this core is no go I’ll probably go with a match and will need to modify the top of the heater box I believe, based on other pictures I’ve seen.

I have not figured out what the large hole in front is for just yet, any Ideas?

Let me know what you fine folks think.

[piratexpress1369a]

this is great info

[jbgroby]

Ok Update. Rad shop said that core has holes and it would be about 300 to patch it right. Sorry I can't justiify that much money on something with and 'Out-of-Sight' warrenty (As soon as you're out of sight, it's out of warrenty).

I need to by after market. Based on my measurements I 'believe' it will be part number (32-2509 from LMC $70.00 with trade in. I'm going to call them and see if we can match it up..

[jbgroby]

Ok I called LMC to inquire about the “deluxe” heater core (part number 32-2510)

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=31

I was hoping to see a picture vs. a drawing. Sure enough they had a picture on file and sent it me (below). I’m going to order this one and install with an external valve to control water flow. I don’t want to do this, but as the cost to fix the little holes will run $300, it just does not make since to invest this when living in New Orleans, LA. I won’t use the heater all that often and if needed, I’ll just twist a valve open.

I’ll probably need to modify the top of the heater box.

Jake

[GWs62]

You will indeed have to modify the cover as I've learned w/ my '62 deluxe. After much research and returning cores that did not match my original, I concluded that there is no aftermarket that will match; so I reordered from LMC and cut a new hole in the cover and will eventually patch the lower hole. The real challenge will be cutting the top cover to accomodate the upper tube.

[jbgroby]

Thanks that is what I needed to see. How did you end up popping the hold in; with a punch or just rough cut?

[GWs62]

Just used a cone shaped burr w/ 1/4" shank. Makes it nice & clean.

[6T6]

Replaced my heater blower motor and discovered that the last person to work on it only re-installed 3 of the 5 screws. There was also 2 missing from the heater core cover.

This has probably been done by alot of guys but thought I would post here anyway........

Went to the hardware store and a couple auto parts stores and could not find the right screws so what I ended uop doing is buying some Stainless Steel self tappers in the right size and ground the tip off. Looks really close to OEM and will hold up much better in this climate.

TC

[Corts60]

Ok, thought I would mention that the 60-63 metal defrost vents are not integral to the dash, the bolts are underneath the windshield seal and I'm pretty sure are impossible to get at with removing the windshield.
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[Bigffjoe]

Here is a pic of my 61 suburban.



Great thread!

Thank you markeb01 for pictures of you manuals... helped me figure out where the plug from the fan switch to the fan motor needs to go. I thought something was missing on my rig, looks like there is a spot on the back of the unit in the cab to plug it onto. Might be why my fan is either on or off out of the 4 positions. After plugged in, maybe the fan will have off and then 3 speeds.

Great picture of the auxiliary heater for the suburban aerotruk63, I would love that in mine to warm up the larger space in my suburban. It get kinda chilly in Sandy Oregon.

[Hx16457]

Ordered a new 64-66 blower motor,
Question;
Why is there a 1in hole in the side of the new motor housing?
The old one did not have this hole.
Looks like I will now need a rubber plug to cover this hole....
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[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by jbgroby

Ok Update. Rad shop said that core has holes and it would be about 300 to patch it right. Sorry I can't justiify that much money on something with and 'Out-of-Sight' warrenty (As soon as you're out of sight, it's out of warrenty).

I need to by after market. Based on my measurements I 'believe' it will be part number (32-2509 from LMC $70.00 with trade in. I'm going to call them and see if we can match it up..

I ran into the same problem w/my 63 deluxe w/ranco valve. Take the off the shelf deluxe core and your oem core to your local shop. Have them, swap the oem tanks to your new core. Cost around $60 and you will not have to modify anything on the heater box or lid.

[QBA]

it should be for a breather hose.for other applications.mine came with a plug and instructions explaning if I needed it or not

[Hx16457]

Any ideas where to find this breather?
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[QBA]

you don't really need the hose,a rubber plug will sufice.
I know that gm cars with tight and enclosed areas like the fiero had them.

search heater motor,there is a post some one had showing the hose.

hope this helps

[Hx16457]

Okay I found a plug for it thanks, though maybe this motor might need the breather!
But you say no so a plug is what I used!
Thx
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[LostMy65]

What's the purpose of this part I've circled?:

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[61K10]

how about after-market knobs on a 61. bought new ones as i was missing one. the new ones don't have the metal insert to hold it on the lever. what do you do to to make them stay on?

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

What's the purpose of this part I've circled?:

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that shold just help route the defrost ductwork

[Bigffjoe]

I almost bought some of the new heater knobs too, I thought they would come with the clips.

[61K10]

I thank 64-66 are different in how they slide on the levers. levers have like teeth, but not the 60-63? 62?