86 squarebody made2drag

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by made2drag

cant wait to get my 255/35/20's

they should tuck in there nicely. they are the same size as my whitewalls

You are moving along really quickly.
Those wheels really rock this truck. I agree with Lolife, the 20x10 are what you will want. Not sure about the 35 series for a DD though. I'm running 245/40 and 295/40s and love the ride they give.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by mcboomport

Go for 22x10s on the back!! You're making great progress!
Keep it up!

thanks.....not sure which yet, but most likely the 20x8.5's, so when my front tires wear unevenly i can switch fronts and backs. i dont want to buy tires too often. of course, this truck is a dailey driver, but i drive my acura during the week to carry my daughter to school and to get the 35 mpg's.

merry Christmas guys

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You are moving along really quickly.
Those wheels really rock this truck. I agree with Lolife, the 20x10 are what you will want. Not sure about the 35 series for a DD though. I'm running 245/40 and 295/40s and love the ride they give.

thanks for the input, i almost always agree with your posts i have read. i agree with you on this also, 20x10's are supersweet and look awesome, but the down fall is the price of new fronts more often. the rears will last forever since i wont really drive it every single day, but i plan on driving 5-10k miles a year. most likely i will drive it really low and my camber will wear out the tires. call me old school, i've had minitrucks since 1991 that have always had lots of negative camber and kind of like the look. (3 720's, 2 b2200's, a 4x4 yukon)

i know what you'll say....fix the camber and your tires will last longer and i wont have to switch my fronts and backs. $300 for spindles, $80 for an alignment will buy 4 front tires 5 years down the road

35 series for looks. i love a stiff ride....wont be any stiffer than my slammed acura on groundcontrol coilovers.

merry Christmas.........by the way.... you are right....im just stubborn

[lolife99]

Add the price of spacers to the back if you use 20x8.5's on the back.
They will be sucked way under the fenders without them.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by made2drag

thanks for the input, i almost always agree with your posts i have read. i agree with you on this also, 20x10's are supersweet and look awesome, but the down fall is the price of new fronts more often. the rears will last forever since i wont really drive it every single day, but i plan on driving 5-10k miles a year. most likely i will drive it really low and my camber will wear out the tires. call me old school, i've had minitrucks since 1991 that have always had lots of negative camber and kind of like the look. (3 720's, 2 b2200's, a 4x4 yukon)

i know what you'll say....fix the camber and your tires will last longer and i wont have to switch my fronts and backs. $300 for spindles, $80 for an alignment will buy 4 front tires 5 years down the road
35 series for looks. i love a stiff ride....wont be any stiffer than my slammed acura on groundcontrol coilovers.
merry Christmas.........by the way.... you are right....im just stubborn

$229 every day.
Plus they have another 10% off until the end of the year.
http://www.performanceonline.com/197...P-SPINDLE-SET/

[N2TRUX]

You may already know this, but I thought I would throw it out there. Unless you mod or replace your front crossmember, your not going to be able to cruise really low. Even with the fenderwells out, stops removed, etc that crossmember is prohibitive to super low cruise heights. All it takes is one close encounter with a man hole cover and your going to be replacing a lot of expensive parts.

Regarding the rear needing a step notch, that won't be necessary with the set up you are running. Well, that is unless your one of those that likes to cruise with the rear bumper scraping and the front a foot off the ground

It sounds like you have thought this through, so keep the progress reports coming. If you need any "words of wisdom" from us gray hair guys, feel free to ask...

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by lolife99

$229 every day.
Plus they have another 10% off until the end of the year.
http://www.performanceonline.com/197...P-SPINDLE-SET/

can you give me a link for which spacers and how thick? thanks

just over $200 is a great deal. i may get some, if i have any money left over after buying wheels and tires. i plan on new balljoints and cross drilled and slotted rotors in the spring, so it would be a one time install.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You may already know this, but I thought I would throw it out there. Unless you mod or replace your front crossmember, your not going to be able to cruise really low. Even with the fenderwells out, stops removed, etc that crossmember is prohibitive to super low cruise heights. All it takes is one close encounter with a man hole cover and your going to be replacing a lot of expensive parts.

Regarding the rear needing a step notch, that won't be necessary with the set up you are running. Well, that is unless your one of those that likes to cruise with the rear bumper scraping and the front a foot off the ground

It sounds like you have thought this through, so keep the progress reports coming. If you need any "words of wisdom" from us gray hair guys, feel free to ask...

yeah, by riding low i mean 2 1/2 inches off the ground and then lay crossmember when parked. i really need to get my tires and wheels on the front and cut the bottom of the c-notches and let it down in the rear before i step it.....a c maybe all i need.....by the way, your rear leaf setup you used to have really helped me out. i looked at your pics a dozen times and said....im going to start out like that and if im not happy with it i'll 2 link it.
i see you went with a different setup now. i had a s10 that was built by devious customs and had a sweet link/wishbone setup but they used 2700's bag on bar instead of sleeves....i would have to say it didnt ride much better then any other bagged leaf spring truck ive had or been in so i may keep my leafs for awhile. if this truck ever becomes "my little helper"s truck, he may want to put it back stock or raise it. i dont want to rearrange the whole rear just to ride a little better. he will either get my 86 or 67. he's 3 so i have some time

[made2drag]

i can post the rear s10 setup if you want to see it

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by made2drag

can you give me a link for which spacers and how thick? thanks
just over $200 is a great deal. i may get some, if i have any money left over after buying wheels and tires. i plan on new balljoints and cross drilled and slotted rotors in the spring, so it would be a one time install.

You will need to measure your own truck.
Bolt the wheels on,... and see how far you can move them out,... without rubbing.
Do the measuring when your truck is completely air'd out.
If you plan to add a step notch,... I would wait until them.
The bedside angle inward as the tire goes up.
I assume you are planning on removing/raising the rear tubs?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You are moving along really quickly.
Those wheels really rock this truck. I agree with Lolife, the 20x10 are what you will want. Not sure about the 35 series for a DD though. I'm running 245/40 and 295/40s and love the ride they give.

The 255-35-20 is going to look awkward in the rear as well. Too small. The 245-40 front 295-40 rear is a great choice for looks & daily durability.

[aggie91]

I agree with SCOTI, the 255/35 would like to small. I ran a 245/45 on the front and a 275/45 on the rear with 20x8.5 rims. I wish I had gone with 10's in the back with a 295/45 tire.

I would suggest fixing the alignment and go with the better looking combo versus replacing tires...just my two cents...

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by lolife99

You will need to measure your own truck.
Bolt the wheels on,... and see how far you can move them out,... without rubbing.
Do the measuring when your truck is completely air'd out.
If you plan to add a step notch,... I would wait until them.
The bedside angle inward as the tire goes up.
I assume you are planning on removing/raising the rear tubs?

im going to remove the the tubs before i put the bed back on the truck.
it is rhinolined professionally so i dont want to cut anything unless im sure its how i want it.

tubs out, step notches (if i do step notches) thru the floor and diff thru the floor. notches will get a tube welded between them but down low so i dont have to cut the bed to clear.

no telling what i need to cut until i get to that point

so, you've brought up a great point, i need to wait and see what the 20x8.5's look like before i order the spacers or 20x10's.....thanks man

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The 255-35-20 is going to look awkward in the rear as well. Too small. The 245-40 front 295-40 rear is a great choice for looks & daily durability.

thanks guys i will reconsider the 40's.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The 255-35-20 is going to look awkward in the rear as well. Too small. The 245-40 front 295-40 rear is a great choice for looks & daily durability.

X2
Perfect choice!

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I agree with SCOTI, the 255/35 would like to small. I ran a 245/45 on the front and a 275/45 on the rear with 20x8.5 rims. I wish I had gone with 10's in the back with a 295/45 tire.

I would suggest fixing the alignment and go with the better looking combo versus replacing tires...just my two cents...

so that's a 245/45 on the front of your 65 chevy?

if it is, 40's or 45's may be the ticket! thanks

[made2drag]

i've had 235/40/17's on my s10 blazer and it rode pretty smoothe and wasnt bad when i hit a pot hole. 40's are on my radar

[muthstryker]

You guys are crazy, I had a 35 series tires on my truck and it was just fine and rode great.. The difference between a 35 series and a 40 series is about 1". Thats 1/2" more rubber all around the tire. That isnt that big of a difference sorry, thats really not a valid comparison. Compare a 35 to a 45 then we will talk.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by made2drag

.... i had a s10 that was built by devious customs and had a sweet link/wishbone setup but they used 2700's bag on bar instead of sleeves....i would have to say it didnt ride much better then any other bagged leaf spring truck ive had or been in so i may keep my leafs for awhile.....

The AoL set up worked just fine and rode great with the sleeved bags. All the pros tell me that sleeved bags are the way to go for the best ride so I followed their advice.

I changed to the full Ride Tech suspension because they wanted to use my truck to promote their bolt in Air Bar system. It is a very well designed set up and the quality is awesome. What I gained was a much wider range of "sweet spot" for cruising over the AoL.

muthstryker- If you were pleased with the ride from 35's thats cool, but I disagree that we are "crazy" for thinking a 40 series is not that much better. I know its a not lot, but that 1/2" more rubber goes a long way when it comes to sidewall flex and a tires ability to absorb road impacts.

[muthstryker]

It depends on what your putting the tires on. A 255/35/20 is going to be the exact same height as a 245/40/20 on a wheel that is 8"s wide. The only noticeable difference in sidewall height is going to be in the rear. Because you have a 295/40 on a 10" wide wheel the 295/35 would in fact be shorter. If you put the 295/35 on a 9" wheel it would be very close to the same height as the 295/40 on a 10" wheel. Heck a 305/35 is the same exact height as a 295/40 on a 10" wheel.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by muthstryker

It depends on what your putting the tires on. A 255/35/20 is going to be the exact same height as a 245/40/20 on a wheel that is 8"s wide. The only noticeable difference in sidewall height is going to be in the rear. Because you have a 295/40 on a 10" wide wheel the 295/35 would in fact be shorter. If you put the 295/35 on a 9" wheel it would be very close to the same height as the 295/40 on a 10" wheel. Heck a 305/35 is the same exact height as a 295/40 on a 10" wheel.

i will take your comments into consideration also when i look into what tires to order. i got a little more time to think about it. i have noticed that in street truck and truckin mags..... people use 255/35's for the look, but i will also listen to people who can comment on real life drivability. im most worried about pot holes and wheel damage. the ride is probably stiff either way. i had 245/45/18's on my yukon and pot holes still rattled my fillings but some would have bent a rim if i had 35's....maybe a 35 but a little wider to give me more contact on the road and 1/2 more sidewall....idk

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

The AoL set up worked just fine and rode great with the sleeved bags. All the pros tell me that sleeved bags are the way to go for the best ride so I followed their advice.

I changed to the full Ride Tech suspension because they wanted to use my truck to promote their bolt in Air Bar system. It is a very well designed set up and the quality is awesome. What I gained was a much wider range of "sweet spot" for cruising over the AoL.

muthstryker- If you were pleased with the ride from 35's thats cool, but I disagree that we are "crazy" for thinking a 40 series is not that much better. I know its a not lot, but that 1/2" more rubber goes a long way when it comes to sidewall flex and a tires ability to absorb road impacts.

cool....sleeves all the way....and i already have air ride tech brackets

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by made2drag

so that's a 245/45 on the front of your 65 chevy?

if it is, 40's or 45's may be the ticket! thanks

Yes, in the most recent picture of it outside on all fours. Those where my rims/tires from my '98 I use to have as a daily driver.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by muthstryker

It depends on what your putting the tires on. A 255/35/20 is going to be the exact same height as a 245/40/20 on a wheel that is 8"s wide. The only noticeable difference in sidewall height is going to be in the rear. Because you have a 295/40 on a 10" wide wheel the 295/35 would in fact be shorter. If you put the 295/35 on a 9" wheel it would be very close to the same height as the 295/40 on a 10" wheel. Heck a 305/35 is the same exact height as a 295/40 on a 10" wheel.

What??
255-35's are 3.51" tall @ the rim & 245-40's are 3.85". That's a difference @ just the front (27.02 vs 27.71") which will only be worse when compared to the rear.

[muthstryker]

I was comparing both tire sizes on an 8" wheel to give an idea on how it works. The number you posted might be true but that's going to be on the suggested rim size (width).

Lets say you have a 20x8 wheel and you want a wider tire then the 245/40 you already have but you don't want to lose tire diameter. You would increase the width by 10 and take away 5 from the aspect ratio.

Because his wheels are a 20x8.5 there is going to be no difference in height between a 245/40 and a 255/35.

I had a 245/35 mount on my 20x8.5 and the tire was about 3/4" shorter then the 255/35.