1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

Sounds like good advice. Although I will be swapping more than just engine and trans. Looks like I may save the frame for later down the road if I'm unhappy with it.

Got a cherry picker today. The fun will be starting soon!

[Flatpat]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

No vehicle inspections in South Carolina.

Yep your measurements sound close to what I measured. 145" on the 01 & 131.5" on the 87.

Shorter overhang? Can you elaborate?

Here is frame dimensions for 87
http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/framespecs.html

This link has a pdf of frame dimensions (at the end) for the 01 frame
http://www.genuinegmparts.com/pdf/ve...ual_1463KB.pdf

How far the frame extends past the rear axle.

[NastyBuzzard]

Went with my buddy today to pick up a 5.3 for $150, he really just needed accessories, still got to determine if engine is good and got myself some extra stuff.

Got this lot of stuff for $40. 02 Intake w/ cover, fuel rails, throttle body. Egr less manifolds and also a rear view mirror that autodims, has temp and compass.. Although Idk if im lacking stuff for temp/compass. I also got a spare coolant resevoir and fuse box mount w/ cover.




Heres my cherry picker I got for $100 only a year old.

[old yelr]

For the temp/compass to work you will need to get the ambient temp sensor that's mounted in front of the radiator on the driver's side, about 5" up from the bottom of the radiator. Then you just have to hook up the wiring.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by old yelr

For the temp/compass to work you will need to get the ambient temp sensor that's mounted in front of the radiator on the driver's side, about 5" up from the bottom of the radiator. Then you just have to hook up the wiring.

Any idea what that looks like?

[old yelr]

Do an eBay search for AX156, that's the sensor for the 2000 and up trucks. The older style would probably work too. You can see the older style in the following thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=228091

Hope that helps.

[NastyBuzzard]

It does thanks! I've always wanted to do that!

I also parked them as close together for a few hours... Was praying for some osmosis to happen but I guess I'm not that lucky. LS motor is running great now though. Going to strip it all down sometime this week or next weekend!



Also. Don't use HQRP knock sensors. They aren't worth jack, after I put two new ones in with the wiring harness and got it back all together I went fr having a rear knock sensor code to having codes for both. Took them back out and put oem and bam no codes... Customer service is weird for HQRP too they asked me to replace and see if codes go away before they give me a return label and a refund.

[NastyBuzzard]

Getting most of the wiring off the truck!! Also having a hell of a time trying to disconnect the exhaust. I need to find an impact or something.




Also found a guy about an hour 1/2 from me who has the newer style front end.. I really like that style a lot better... Thinking about trying to go pick it up.

[NastyBuzzard]

Got some more done today. It took forever but I got the exhaust disconnected from the manifolds. Bolts did not want to come loose at all.

I took all the wiring loose and got it all up front, all that is left is to get rest of cab wiring out.

Front drive shaft is out, rear is loose and ready. I got the trans x-member close to dropping out.

Radiator is off, fluid drained for the most part.

Engine mount bolts are out/loose.

I am wanting to pull engine/trans together. I thought about taking transfer case loose under the truck but it may as well come with it. I do not want to seperate trans from engine if at all possible.

Any ideas on lifting it out of there, such as best lifting points? I should probably purchase a balancer/load leveler for when I install together in the 87.



Lots of intimidating wiring!!! Gotta keep it all too, minus rear o2s and abs.



Also saw someone do this on facebook. blazer/suburban 31/40 gal tank in d.s. position. Although I still plan to put the 26 gal from the 01 in mine, outside frame rails.

[old yelr]

Lots of progress! Looks good. If you unbolt the cab mounts and jack the body up in the front and prop it up on some 2x4's or whatever it will give you some extra room when you pull it out. Just a thought.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by old yelr

Lots of progress! Looks good. If you unbolt the cab mounts and jack the body up in the front and prop it up on some 2x4's or whatever it will give you some extra room when you pull it out. Just a thought.

Thank you! I was feeling a little upset b/c I actually wanted to pull engine/trans yesterday so I was feeling like I didn't make as much progress as I would have liked.

I already had to remove cab mount on front drivers side and jack it up to remove wiring harness! It was too thick to pull through unless I did that. Although, what you are saying sounds like an excellent idea! I probably will do that!

I also need to get some 2x4s w/ some casters to build a "cart" for the engine/trans so i can move it around while I clean it and get it ready to slap in the 87! I really miss having a welder!

Also, is a special tool required to remove the mechanical fan? I won't be needing it.

[old yelr]

There is a special tool but you don't really need it. If you look at the front face of the pulley there are two holes, one on either side. What I did was run a piece of heavy wire or a bent up coat hanger through one of the holes and then wrapped it around part of the water pump to anchor the pulley and then just turned to fan off with a wrench. I beleive it comes off counter clockwise.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by old yelr

There is a special tool but you don't really need it. If you look at the front face of the pulley there are two holes, one on either side. What I did was run a piece of heavy wire or a bent up coat hanger through one of the holes and then wrapped it around part of the water pump to anchor the pulley and then just turned to fan off with a wrench. I beleive it comes off counter clockwise.

Idea what size wrench you need? It looks huge, I know my 1 1/16" wrench didn't fit.

[old yelr]

Yeah, it's a pretty big one! Maybe 1-1/8 or 1-3/16 I can't remember. You could always use a pipe wrench if you have one, you just need to break it loose and then it should just spin off easily.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by old yelr

Yeah, it's a pretty big one! Maybe 1-1/8 or 1-3/16 I can't remember. You could always use a pipe wrench if you have one, you just need to break it loose and then it should just spin off easily.

Sounds like I need to go buy a pipe wrench... Can't pass up an opportunity to buy more tools... Just wish the shop never burned down! I'm having to replace everything slowly or as needed.

What is good lifting points to pull out engine/trans together? I am used to just putting some bolts in the heads but thats back when they weren't aluminum!

[Jonboy]

I used a regular left plate from O'Reilly's to pull the engine. Pull the intake, and use 4 of the valley cover holes for the lift plate. Worked pretty slick. I was worried about the length of the factory cover bolts, so I picked up 4 that were about 1/2 longer. Worked like a champ.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I used a regular left plate from O'Reilly's to pull the engine. Pull the intake, and use 4 of the valley cover holes for the lift plate. Worked pretty slick. I was worried about the length of the factory cover bolts, so I picked up 4 that were about 1/2 longer. Worked like a champ.

You talking about the plate with like 3 holes in it? Did you have to modify it to bolt to the block?

Those bolts seem real small though... I am pulling engine/trans together and maybe even tcase

[Jonboy]

Yeah, the universal lift plate. 4 of the perimeter bolt holes lined up, so I went with that. No modifications needed, but I did buy longer bolts to go through the upper cover. I did mine with the engine and trans together.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Yeah, the universal lift plate. 4 of the perimeter bolt holes lined up, so I went with that. No modifications needed, but I did buy longer bolts to go through the upper cover. I did mine with the engine and trans together.

Nice.. I already have one of those bolted to intake of my other sbc I have in storage... I have it bolted to intake where carb goes tho, not sure if it's the same. I'll check it out. Any idea what size those bolts are? I'm sure they are metric.

[Jonboy]

I don't remember. I took one of them to the hardware store to match the threads up, then got them a little longer.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I don't remember. I took one of them to the hardware store to match the threads up, then got them a little longer.

Only thing close to me that has bolts on a weekend is Napa. So hopefully they will have something. I will double check and make sure I have the plate that will work. Thanks Jonboy.

[NastyBuzzard]

This is what I got.

[old yelr]

There is a lift plate that is designed for pulling the LS engines and it has ten holes and basically bolts in place of the cover and uses all ten bolts. But you probably don't want to that long

[NastyBuzzard]

Had to modify the plate I posted above a little bit but it worked fantastic! Except I fudged up my knock sensors.







So now what...

[y5mgisi]

Now start cleaning everything.