Towing C10..... what do I need ?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tusky

Tom.... I got less than 4 grand in the motor. Let me guide you on how to pull it off.

I traded a nitrous bottle for a bare block.
The Heads I picked got 150 dollars off Facebook.
The rotating assembly came from a scoggin dickey. 2100 bucks
The timing chain (80 dollars)can be picked up new from ws6store website. Fast shipping they have.
Pushrods came from Brian Tooley Racing. 100 bucks brand new. Brian is the man... very nice guy that knows LS motors.
He also hooked me up on the valvesprings for 140 dollars.
Trunion upgrade was 115 dollars also from Tooley.
Lifters was 140 bucks
The injectors is used.... I paid 125 dollars for them off ls1tech.
Throttle body is off eBay for 150 dollars.
I hunted a intake down at pull a part got 75 dollars.
As far as gaskets/bolts I basically got them free from helping friends doing their cam swaps etc....
On the cam I picked it up from Hubbard Racing for 300 dollars.
Right place.... Right time you can do it too. Just helps to know great people and have sources.
If I missed anything let me know....

If you can get a 6.0 for a great deal I say snatch it up. They pop up all the time with spun bearings on Facebook for around 500 dollars or so. I now have a co worker begging me out the motor LOL....

I recall there being more electronics involved when swapping in an LS FI set-up. The harness, electronics, & computer aren't free nor is the tuning for the specific combo (necessary unless you're keeping it a stock set-up right?).

Old trucks can/will pull a trailer just fine w/their antiquated power plants. Swapping in an LS based FI set-up makes them more 'modern' as far as driveability but a fresh Quadrajet carb & OD trans will get it done all day long w/o issue. Either combo will be weakest in the braking area.

Originally Posted by Tusky

How much of a motor I need to tow my car 6 hours away from home ? 6.0 or 5.3 ?
What mods will be best for towing?
What transmission would be best?
Long wheel base or short wheel base ?
What gear ratio in the rear I need to get the weight moving?

A 350 gets it done.
RV/towing cam & better exhaust vs OE.
TH350/TH400 w/a GV OD or a 4l80e
LWB would be better for towing.
Depends on tire OD.... minimum 3.42's.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I think the biggest thing that made a difference with me towing with the 305 was the SM465. I could just jam it into the low gear at a stop and pull away no issue. That trans was made for heavy loads, it loved it. It drives like crap unloaded but with a load on it's a dream.

[Alex V.]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

I think the biggest thing that made a difference with me towing with the 305 was the SM465. I could just jam it into the low gear at a stop and pull away no issue. That trans was made for heavy loads, it loved it. It drives like crap unloaded but with a load on it's a dream.

I'm with you with my NP435. I know numerous other pieces of my 1/2 ton drivetrain are gonna break before it gives up.

[68post]

Brakes, stability, gearing, and suspension are key over anything else. When it comes to an engine - torque beats horsepower , and it's needed off idle and low rpm.

For occasional towing - almost any engine works , for everyday towing - only the biggest gas or a diesel works best.

This all seems overly simplistic , I guess that's because it's just common sense.

[Tusky]

Scoti- the sensors are not that expensive. On the tuning I got a local guy that charges 250 for a base tune... then after days of driving the car/truck around he will come back for another 100 bucks to dial the combo in.

[Tusky]

I know the way a vehicle is geared makes a ton of difference. I don't know much about automatic transmissions LOL. So I apologized for anything that may sound crazy about a transmission of choice or whatever.
I just basically want the truck to run strong at 55 to 70 mph.

[Tusky]

Malibu- I never heard of that transmission or had no dealing with one of those but it sounds good.

[Hewfil1]

Originally Posted by Tusky

Malibu- I never heard of that transmission or had no dealing with one of those but it sounds good.

You've never heard of the Muncie 465!?

[Tusky]

Originally Posted by Hewfil1

You've never heard of the Muncie 465!?

Yes I heard of muncie... but not the numbers. People just say Muncie around here.

[Alex V.]

No harm no foul. "Strong" varies by definition - I'd say my 454 pulls setups like yours "strong" because it could accelerate from 30 to at least 45 on an uphill on-ramp and sustain 65+ on any hills along the midwestern portion of I-64 or I-70, but if you want to go with the flow of traffic (85 miles an hour, jockeying in and out of the fast lane) on I-65 between Nashville and Birmingham or roll over mountain ranges with the cruise control set then no factory pre-'88 truck will do that.

The SM465 is the most common heavy-duty, "granny low" 4-speed manual used in our trucks from '67 or '68 until 4-speeds went out of style in the late 80's. The NP435 is a similar transmission, just from a different manufacturer and less common in Chevys. The TH350 usually came in 1/2 ton and light 3/4 ton trucks - the TH400's gear ratios are similar but it's much more stout in stock form, the 4L80 being a very close relative with a few strengthened parts and a moderate overdrive. The 700r4 became the 4l60, neither of which are overly durable without upgrades but they have a fast overdrive ratio.

[Tusky]

I have yet to make my mind up on a tranmission due to time and money. Hopefully my work picks back up soon at Winchester. Since Trump got in office.... The bullet business not doing so well.

[GRADYS Performance]

If you are using the LS motor and electronics put a 4L80E in it. You have the electronics to run it and the transmission has the strength, gearing and overdrive to do everything you want to do with it. Plus the fuel mileage and lowered engine wear of being able to tow in O/D will be better than a 4L60E or TH400.

As said in other posts, long wheelbase, 3/4 ton 3.73 gears, big brakes, trailer brakes, weight distributing hitch and a Dual Cam sway control are all your friends. It is not about the ability to pull the load. It is about the ability to Control the Load when something out of the ordinary happens. And sooner or later if you tow much it will. If you value your life and your equipment prepare for that as you choose your towing equipment.

Take into consideration that your load is always heavier than you think because you have to account for everything you take along, Tools, fuel, water support equipment, food, comfort supplies etc.

And we all seem to upgrade so when your flatbed trailer becomes an enclosed trailer will you have to update your tow vehicle or already have the vehicle you need. less expensive to do it right the first time.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by GRADYS Performance

It is not about the ability to pull the load. It is about the ability to Control the Load when something out of the ordinary happens. And sooner or later if you tow much it will. If you value your life and your equipment prepare for that as you choose your towing equipment.

Take into consideration that your load is always heavier than you think because you have to account for everything you take along, Tools, fuel, water support equipment, food, comfort supplies etc.

Outstanding advice. I often see guys say "my 1/2 ton can pull 10,000 pounds all day long". I'm sure it can pull it just fine, but throw in some strong cross winds or a kid chasing a ball running out in front of you and you will see the reason to use the proper tool for the job. I have towed my Jeep with a Trailblazer, a half ton ford, and a half ton Chevy. They all got me there and back, but when the time came to get me a different truck I went with the 1 ton.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Outstanding advice. I often see guys say "my 1/2 ton can pull 10,000 pounds all day long". I'm sure it can pull it just fine, but throw in some strong cross winds or a kid chasing a ball running out in front of you and you will see the reason to use the proper tool for the job. I have towed my Jeep with a Trailblazer, a half ton ford, and a half ton Chevy. They all got me there and back, but when the time came to get me a different truck I went with the 1 ton.

I agree w/this 100%. I towed 1/2 ton swb Chevys w/my 1/2 ton swb Chevys for years w/o issue but I knew I was pushing my luck. While short, across town hauls is what I used the trailer for mostly (moving new projects here/there) I definitely would not have ventured out on a cross country trip @ highway speeds loaded like that. The weight of the load would push it all over under less that desirable circumstances.

That's when I started looking for a crew-cab square body (I wanted a 3/4 ton single wheel). But, a board member had a CC dually & just like that we swapped trucks. I think a 3/4 ton would be the optimal step up (not too big, not too small etc).

[Tusky]

What advantages will a 3/4 ton will have over a 1/2 ton?
If both was a single cab long wheel base pick up. Only difference I personally see is that the 3/4 ton has more lug nuts.....

[Alex V.]

Higher capacity:
Frame
Springs
Axle
Tires
Brakes

And not an absolute rule but in most instances heavier duty transmission and different engine equipment - more/bigger fluid coolers, different/less emissions apparatus, etc. There is a substantial difference, it just all got put under the same body panels. In stock form I can differentiate a 10 series truck from a 20/30 series truck as it drives by, without seeing the emblem - just little hints in tire size, stance, etc. give them away.

With 1,000 lbs. in the bed, for an "average equipped" truck:
The 1/2 ton will be squatting substantially
The 3/4 ton will be sitting slightly lower than normal, maybe dead level front to back
And the 1-ton (even a single-rear-wheel model without optional super stout springs) will be sitting 2" lower than normal ride height.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by Alex V.

And the 1-ton (even a single-rear-wheel model without optional super stout springs) will be sitting 2" lower than normal ride height.

1 ton would not even notice a thousand lbs...
my camper loaded is 2500+, and the truck does not drop one bit. when i hook on the trailer as well, then it comes down a couple inches.
G52 springs, 4600lbs cap.

[Alex V.]

4,600 per side? Ahh, I was going by the way my 3,750 and 3,900 lb.-rates act - stock springs for a SRW fleetside. But I'm sure that's true of the heavier springs.

[Tusky]

The 3/4 ton sounds nice... is it thread on here showing nothing but 3/4 tons all nice, suited n booted ? Like "let's see those 3/4 tons" if so link me to it here on this thread. Thanks

[Alex V.]

Not sure about squarebody 3/4 ton pic threads, but here's some factory literature and 20 and 30 series specs:




A couple of newer K20's:




This looks like a C20:

[Alex V.]

oldcarbrochures.org or https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-...tion-kits.html is a good place for pics and detailed specs on all these trucks.

[Tusky]

Thanks!! Very helpful info

[wilkin250r]

Many of the 1/2 tons and 3/4 tons used the exact same size engine, but the 3/4 tons had stronger axles, stronger springs for load capability, and stronger brakes for stopping power. I've heard a rumor that the 2wd frame is different from 1/2 to 3/4 ton, but the 4wd frame is the same on both. I cannot confirm 100%.

But, since the major difference between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton is NOT the engine, but rather in the brakes/springs/axles, that gives you a little clue as to what YOUR priorities should be for towing and load capabilities also.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by GRADYS Performance

And we all seem to upgrade so when your flatbed trailer becomes an enclosed trailer will you have to update your tow vehicle or already have the vehicle you need. less expensive to do it right the first time.

That's an excellent point....

took me 30 years to do it, though.

K

[Tusky]

Been awhile since I updated here. I finally got my hands on a truck. The truck is a 97 model 3/4 with a 454ci . The truck pulls good but I'm looking to upgrade to some nice wheels.