Project "You thought yours was bad!" '78 C10 Stepside

[lowbrow454]

It's getting there. Definitely cutting into the truck parts fund.

[Nick_R_23]

I hear that!

I didn't like any of the aftermarket shock extender brackets so I decided to fab my own. I bought a stick of 2"x3"x.125" square tubing and cut out two lengths, one for each side. I got the first one roughed in, and I'll be trying to get the other side looking the same way tomorrow.

[Nick_R_23]

Finished up the shock brackets today I'm still waiting on the weld nuts to come in before I finish them completely and paint them, but otherwise they're ready to go.

[Nick_R_23]

Started on getting the engine pulled from the suburban. Ended up with torque converter/bellhousing/motor mount bolts left, but otherwise ready to come out.

[Nick_R_23]

Engine is ready to come out! I woke up early today and was rewarded with rain while I finished up the last few things needed to pull it.



And she's out! It's currently wrapped up, as it'll have to sit in the back of my truck for a few days until I can move the suburban. I also pulled and sold the 4l60E right after for $300, the rear bumper and tailgate off the 86 longbed for $350, and the frame also from the 86 for $50! I've now made the $1000 back that I spent on the 86 by selling all the unneeded parts from it, so my clean cab, front clip, front bumper, 3.73 rear axle, front suspension, and 700R4 were FREE!! The suburban has nearly already paid for itself as well!



Here's the current parts breakdown so far:

Truck (Neighbor) -----------------$0
78 Hood (CL) -------------------$40
78 Fender, driver (CL) -----------$75
3.42 Rear axle (junkyard) -------$150
Rally wheels 15x8 (junkyard) ---$100
Spindles 2.5" drop (ECE w/sh) -$350
Axle flip (McGaughy/Ebay w/sh)-$126
Full Bushing kit (E.S/EBay w/sh)-$188
Cooper 235/60R15 front (CL) ---$50
Rear axle brake line (Napa) -------$11
Cooper 275/60R15 rear (shop) -$305
Parts truck 1986 longbed -----$1000
Sold 3.42 rear axle ----------(-$150)
Sold 78 hood ----------------(-$125)
Sold column/misc parts -----(-$140)
Sold 78 fender ----------------(-$75)
Stock grille ---------------------$20
Traded tach gauges for headers --$0
Sold 86 engine --------------(-$500)
Vortec/Carb intake -------------$220
Powdercoat wheels ------------$200
Mount/balance tires -------------$40
Headlight bezels ----------------$25
Sold 86 longbed -------------(-$100)
Lower ball joints/brake lines ----$100
Wheel bearings/seals/grease ---$100
Front A-Arm bumpstops --------$20
Wheel spacers ------------------$44
Front brake lines ----------------$25
Tail lights -----------------------$50
Front and rear shocks ----------$195
Sold 86 tailgate/bumper -----(-$350)
Sold 86 frame ----------------(-$50)
99 Suburban for parts ---------$500
Sold Vortec intake ------------(-$50)
Sold suburban trans ---------(-$300)

Total investment: $2094

[Marshy]

Nice!

[daddyjeep]

Free parts are my favorite. I did the same thing during my Jeep build. I bought and sold 3 other Jeeps during the build and got all the parts I needed from them for free.

[Nick_R_23]

It's definitely the way to go. It still surprises me that so many people don't realize the value of scrap vehicles!

I got the new engine in the garage and stripped it down to a mostly shortblock. Looks very clean inside, I'm happy to see that! I haven't decided on a camshaft yet but there's plenty of time before this gets dropped in anyway.





I got my plates in as well! Honestly a little surprised the DMV let 'Screw Loose' through, but hey, I'm happy.

[Marshy]

Are you keeping the fuel injection?

[68Timber]

There was a thread not too long ago where a guy built a torquer 350 with a flat tappet cam and I think it was a TBI motor. I can see the white burb in his garage with the front clip off but can't recall who it was at the moment. Anyway if you're keeping the fuel injection I'll see if I can find it.

[Nick_R_23]

I won't be using the factory Vortec fuel injection. I might be using a different EFI kit, but we'll see how the budget looks towards the end. If not I'll just be picking up a regular street carb for it.

[Nick_R_23]

I ordered up a pair of 255/60R15 Cooper Cobras for the front the other day, because the way the 235's looked on the 8" rims was just bothering me way too much. They will hopefully be in Monday so I can swing in and have them mounted over my weekend.

Also fabbed up my taillight brackets, turned out not too bad for basically eyeballing and free handing everything. I put new conduit on the taillight harness and ran it through the frame as well.

[Nick_R_23]

[Nick_R_23]

I picked up these crazy looking LED lights for the taillights. I mainly wanted them to ensure the smaller taillight housings wouldn't melt with the additional use on a truck vs an ATV.



My 255/60 Cooper Cobras came in today too! Got them mounted and balanced, I like them much better than the shorter 235's on there previously.

[Nick_R_23]

I got a chance to finish up my shock brackets today, my weld nuts finally came in!





Shiny!





All installed



And shocks are in!





And back on four wheels! I'm really liking the way this sits with the new tires on the front. It should be perfect when the engine and trans make their way in.

[friscobob]

What are the tail lights off of?
Bob

[Nick_R_23]

2005-2008(ish) Polaris 4 wheeler or any year IQ Widetrak.

[Nick_R_23]

I got started on the motor today, I decided to hold off on the cam as I didn't want to pull the heads off and get the guides machined for a higher lift, so I felt the cost and work involved to swap the cam out for one barely better than stock wasn't worth it. However, I did ditch the plastic Vortec cover in favor of an aluminum old school style cover for hopefully less leaks. I had to machine down the stock reluctor wheel to clear the cover and space out the balancer correctly.







Little bit of sealant to help out these leaky small blocks



Timing cover installed, and a new gasket for the oil pan as well.



New oil filter and adapter converted over from the Vortec style, and new block plugs from removal of the knock sensor.



Valve covers cleaned with new gaskets, and new carb conversion intake installed





Aaaaaand threw on the headers just because!

[Nick_R_23]

Cleaned up the frame mounts and got them bolted to the frame, and got the engine "in" last night!



A little double-jack action here. Note to self: Next time, engine first, lowering kit second!





Also test fit the headers, which fit surprisingly well! Take the spark plugs out and they slide right in with great clearance everywhere.





So with the engine in now, this should be pretty much final ride height!

[TKCR]

I read through your entire build. I am so impressed with all the work that you have done yourself. Can't wait to see more pics.

[Marshy]

I was told you could drop a set of 1.6 rocker arms in a vortec with stock cam with no issues. Seems to me you'd still want to check retainer clearance to be 100% sure though... Or use 1.58 arms...

Nice headers, who makes them?

[Nick_R_23]

Originally Posted by TKCR

I read through your entire build. I am so impressed with all the work that you have done yourself. Can't wait to see more pics.

Thank you! It's definitely been quite the project so far!

Originally Posted by Marshy

I was told you could drop a set of 1.6 rocker arms in a vortec with stock cam with no issues. Seems to me you'd still want to check retainer clearance to be 100% sure though... Or use 1.58 arms...

Nice headers, who makes them?

I could do rockers, but the gains for the cost would be minimal. I think I may just run this one until I get another smoking deal on an LS setup again. The headers I'm unsure who they were made by. Usually Hooker or Hedmann have a tag welded on them. I'm thinking possibly Flowtech?

[Nick_R_23]

Well, I guess I should get back to updating this! I picked up a new toy and I've been out enjoying this one instead of working on my truck.



To start off, I scored a double hump crossmember the other day!



I got the transmission back from getting the shift kit installed and calibrated for the truck. It had a JR kit installed previously, but it was done incorrectly as well as all the electronics had been removed, so I had everything replaced.





Flexplate installed



My el cheapo tranny slider to make it easy to get under the truck



Made it!



It was the biggest pain in the ass ever to get this sucker up onto the jack!



So now that the transmission is up and bolted to the engine, the trans mount is installed, and the crossmember is shifted up into place...my transmission is touching the tunnel!! I checked the thickness of the transmission mount, the thickness of the body mounts, even shimmed the center body mounts up 1/4" (the frame brackets sag slightly there), which barely lifted the tunnel. So, I slid the old single hump crossmember up next to the new one...



...and it's hard to tell in this dark picture, but the new double hump crossmember sits up about 1/4" taller than the old one. Has anyone ran into this before? I think I might just have to section a piece out of my new crossmember to make this work.

[Nick_R_23]

So this is a problem that I've been dealing with. That aluminum cover kind of screwed me, as nobody makes a very good timing tab for them. The reviews were split, some people said they fit great, others said the balancer hits the lower allen bolt. Guess which one I was! Luckily, I ordered a two piece one. I was hoping to modify the spacer supplied with the tab, but I wasn't happy with the design of it, especially since the aluminum cover had recessed holes for the bolt heads. Summit claims that these are specifically designed for the aluminum covers, although I don't think that is true, as with the spacer installed to clear the timing cover, the bolts are only long enough to fit a stamped steel cover. Regardless, this stupid thing was pretty expensive so I was determined to use it. After trying a few different things, I ended up with .625" spacers (5/8") which fit perfectly. I actually ended up just machining the beveled tips off some roll pins, which worked great! Very solid mount, and the bolt clears the balancer perfectly.







Next up, verifying true top dead center. I built a quick piston stop tool out of an LS engine pushrod and one of the old spark plugs out of the engine. Worked perfect! Being that the engine is nearly new, the timing ended up being dead on, centered perfectly in the pointer.

[dragonball98312]

Everything looks great but i find it hard to believe you cleaned up that motor and didnt paint it