Make it handle

[robnolimit]

Oops, one more, I like the early mustang spring 67-70, it's wide, smooth, and very close to the right sping rate for older p/u's.

[Lolyin58]

Rob very interested in your new front suspension for my 68 GMC. If you could send me a bunch of info and pics that would be great. Its time to change it up as now is the time since I'm doing the LS swap. Can't wait. Talk to u soon!

[ambryatim]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

<edit2> Might be a dumb question, but do the bends in a trailing arm matter, or are you looking just at the mount points when drawing your lines? Or does the bend in the back of the arm only for mounting surface? I want to plot out my suspension now and see where it turns up on the scale.

Hello Rob, I was reading thru the thread and never saw where you might have answered this question....so does it matter??

I will be installing the trailing arm suspension on my 57 Chevy Truck and would like to know about the bend in the arms too. As for mounting them do you have to angle them in toward the center of the vehicle like the orginal set is...or can you make them straight.

And attach them to the outside of the frame?? Kinda like this.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...1&postcount=59

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...4&postcount=52

Thanks

[robnolimit]

The bends in the factory traling arms were all about packaging. The factory needed a pad for the spring that would be parallel to the chassis, for easy mounting. It was cheaper to bend the arm, than to make a mounting plate with an angle. I'm not so sure about Trailing arms on a 55-59, the chassis is 34" wide, and the arms may contact the frame rail if the truck sits low. Again, packaging comes into play here. Kicking the rails up could help.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Lolyin58

Rob very interested in your new front suspension for my 68 GMC. If you could send me a bunch of info and pics that would be great. Its time to change it up as now is the time since I'm doing the LS swap. Can't wait. Talk to u soon!

Thanks for the interest. Our new C-10 Wide Ride IFS is ready to go. - I've done my best to keep this thread on the tech info, and not sales, so i'll post up all the info in the 'Suspension Marketplace' on a new thread.

[Jonboy]

Rob, can you give me a recommendation on a front spring for my truck? I have a '74, static lowered about 6/8. I am swapping in an LS, and will be putting a 1 1/2" sectioned crossmember in. It has a 3" spindle and 1 1/2 coil cut in the front currently. I would like to upgrade the handling somewhat in the future, but still keep the functionality as well. Since I will have the whole front apart, now would be a good time to swap the spring from the 38 year old ones in there now. Any ideas?

[ambryatim]

Thanks Rob...Did you happen to look at the links I provided in my other post??

The trailing arms they are using are not the conventional type like on the 63-72 year trucks. His are mounted on the outside of the frame. I was wondering if it is better to mount the arms closer together under the truck going to a crossmember or if his method will yield the same results??

I will not be bagging my truck it will be a DD and I might take it out to the Good Guys auto cross at TMS in the near future.

Also what was the factory bend?? 15* (degrees)

Thanks

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The bends in the factory traling arms were all about packaging. The factory needed a pad for the spring that would be parallel to the chassis, for easy mounting. It was cheaper to bend the arm, than to make a mounting plate with an angle. I'm not so sure about Trailing arms on a 55-59, the chassis is 34" wide, and the arms may contact the frame rail if the truck sits low. Again, packaging comes into play here. Kicking the rails up could help.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Rob, can you give me a recommendation on a front spring for my truck? I have a '74, static lowered about 6/8. I am swapping in an LS, and will be putting a 1 1/2" sectioned crossmember in. It has a 3" spindle and 1 1/2 coil cut in the front currently. I would like to upgrade the handling somewhat in the future, but still keep the functionality as well. Since I will have the whole front apart, now would be a good time to swap the spring from the 38 year old ones in there now. Any ideas?

We are trying to get Ibach to make some springs, but it's going very slowly. I still like the 3/4t spring with a coil cut. Sounds like a cool truck, The weight difference of the ls swap won't be that noticable.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by ambryatim

Thanks Rob...Did you happen to look at the links I provided in my other post??

The trailing arms they are using are not the conventional type like on the 63-72 year trucks. His are mounted on the outside of the frame. I was wondering if it is better to mount the arms closer together under the truck going to a crossmember or if his method will yield the same results??

I will not be bagging my truck it will be a DD and I might take it out to the Good Guys auto cross at TMS in the near future.

Also what was the factory bend?? 15* (degrees)

Thanks

Yes, I looked at the threads, those really arent trailing arms, as there are upper triangulated links as well. For trailing arms to work, they need to pivit from close to the center of the truck, so that the rear axle can tip, or articulate, without binding. Mini truckers have tried the '2-link' idea, two long bars on the outside of the chassis, mounted solid to the axle, and a pivit forward on the chassis, - and most learned that this is a bad idea.

[ambryatim]

^^^^Thanks for the info. So how do you think these would work over the oem style arms??

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=387475

[robnolimit]

Making adjustable arms can be a big help in tuning. Stock non adjustable arms make it difficult to 'square' up the rear axle. With adjusters in the ends of the trailing arms, you can set the rear perfectly square to the centerline of the truck, and hopefully the front axle centerline. - if it's in the right place.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ambryatim

^^^^Thanks for the info. So how do you think these would work over the oem style arms??

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=387475

That type of truck arm would definitely be better vs stock. Less structural flex w/more articulation. Porterbuilt makes them w/drop as well @ a similar price vs what other aftermarket vendors sell their 'stock' replacements.

[robnolimit]

WOOO HOOO !!!! Wow, 100,000 views!!! Thats friggin cool!!! Thanks guys for keeping the interest up !!!!!!

[67cheby]

ummmm...you make it pretty easy for us to stay interested !

[jayman68]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

ummmm...you make it pretty easy for us to stay interested !

X2, Thanks Rob!

[duallyjams]

It's edge ba cation that even I can understand.

[jimmydean]

Rob, maybe it was covered earlier, but is there a difference in handling between a setup like abadsvt's setup and a standard 4 link? Mine will be like this only using the Corvette IRS. I love the looks, but is there an advantage?

[leftcoast66]

Rob, any suggestions on air bags? I don't want to go with ART because of price. I'm leaning towards Slam Specialties RE6 (rear) and RE7 (front) because of the thicker walls versus the Firestone 2500 and 2600 I've been running, any input?

[jimmydean]

I had those same bags on my '69 and they were awesome. I would not run any bag but the Slams.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Rob, maybe it was covered earlier, but is there a difference in handling between a setup like abadsvt's setup and a standard 4 link? Mine will be like this only using the Corvette IRS. I love the looks, but is there an advantage?

Are you talking about the 'Cantalever, or Rocker-arm' for the shockwave? If so, there can be some advantages if done correctly. If you are using an IRS, then a cantilever can help out a lot with clearance issues.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Rob, any suggestions on air bags? I don't want to go with ART because of price. I'm leaning towards Slam Specialties RE6 (rear) and RE7 (front) because of the thicker walls versus the Firestone 2500 and 2600 I've been running, any input?

The RE7 is a great bag for the front of C-10. I know everybody uses the 2500 style on the rear, or RE6, but i really like the 9000 style slider bags. They will run at a higher pressure at ride hieght, appx 70 psi, and have a smoother ride.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Are you talking about the 'Cantalever, or Rocker-arm' for the shockwave? If so, there can be some advantages if done correctly. If you are using an IRS, then a cantilever can help out a lot with clearance issues.

Yes, the cantilever setup (if that is the proper term). While I should have know Nate had performance in mind, I didn't know what advantage that has. I am aware of the advantages gained with an IRS rear, but the rocker/shockwavr setup.

I am also looking to use the Select Ride series for comfort/performance select on the fly.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The RE7 is a great bag for the front of C-10. I know everybody uses the 2500 style on the rear, or RE6, but i really like the 9000 style slider bags. They will run at a higher pressure at ride hieght, appx 70 psi, and have a smoother ride.

Thanks Rob, I'll go with the 9000 series in the rear then. I'm going to run a triangulated 4 link but from what I've read, the 9000 series are ideal for bag over axle setup. Not a big deal, just wanted to confirm. I'm building the truck to handle, and corner well but maintain the bags on the frame I'm building.

Thanks again,
Brendan

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Thanks Rob, I'll go with the 9000 series in the rear then. I'm going to run a triangulated 4 link but from what I've read, the 9000 series are ideal for bag over axle setup. Not a big deal, just wanted to confirm. I'm building the truck to handle, and corner well but maintain the bags on the frame I'm building.

Thanks again,
Brendan

I talked a bit about set-up theory, and that I lean towards a 'soft spring/big bar/low RC' set-up. A typical triangulated 4-bar will set the RC just below the axle CL. the 9000 bags will be fine, I have toy'd with the idea of using 8000 bags, the skinny slider bags, 1100 lbs @ 100 psi, (2 bags = 2200 capacity, more than enough) but never tried it. Good shocks, mounted outboard, and a sway bar will make all the difference for you.

[gringoloco]

Rob, any info on installed dimensions on those f8000s? Can't seem to find them online...
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