84 c10 stepside

[jpnh]

I had that stuff on my last street rod project. it lined most places {floors trunk floor above the headliner} it was a product called dynamat although ive seen a couple new products lately{not sure the name} same stuff though sound deadening stuff you put under your carpet/above your headliner any where that might reverberate also there was rubber glued inside the doors not sure if that was original or someone added that at somepoint way back but it did make the doors less hollow comparatively to ones without it. the insulation under the hood makes a big difference , i have it on my stock hood and not on my cowl induction hood i could tell when i switched it over that stuff makes it a step quieter for sure. when i change the drivetrain over/get new/complete exhaust on there it will be smoother/quieter too. as for my truck if i got the cash id put it in when i put the new seats in maybe. but i dont mind how it sounds now. after measuring its lookin like the new gm seats are a lil taller than the stock bench gonna have to do some modifying there but the buckets/console are goin in for sure. this truck of mine isnt the finest example so its not imparitive to me to make everything stock/ showroom mint its just beat enough where im not worried about modifying the drivetrain or putting it back to stock in any way. i put a lot of work in it and cleaned it up. most of those little things are gone thru now. its road worthy/cool but its not a show truck, i enjoy working on it. its certainly exceeded the value of the truck just in parts,thats not counting labor hrs if i had to pay someone to work on this.{although there are a few things ive subbed out} forget its not worth it, and theres still alot to do yet. im gonna put the stock hood back on when i paint it coming up. im gonna take the cowl hood back off and spray flat black finish on it i like the look of it that way. there are a couple spots an oldtimer was ragging me on that im gonna finish too. gotta force myself to get color on this thing coming up without f/n it up.-jeff

[jpnh]

I finished painting my 1st test panel for the truck to see if the process works right. wow. i hope the rest comes out as good.

[aotte1]

Jeff,

Looking good!! What is next to be painted?

Les

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Jeff,

Looking good!! What is next to be painted?

Les

Thanx Les,im gonna dismantle the bed and start there, when the weather is good that is. what sux is im trying to do it in my garage and the weather makes the difference. i need a week of clear/warm days so things will dry right, cant do it right if its cold/rainy. like today is nice but i cant bite off more than i can chew its supposed to rain tomorrow. too many variables. i think im gonna just focus on the tailgate today. this paint is cool, but tricky if the heat/ventilation/mix/technique/flash times/gun cleaning/ humidity/barometric pressure/planet alignment arent just right youll have problems, i wish i had a spray booth with the right draft,lighting,heat,space, then i could lay it out right/get it done much easier.but thats not in the cards.it also makes a difference how you spray it gun settings/how many coats you apply because the mid coat paint is like a kandy[translucent} if your not consistant youll have 10 different shades of teal/green. the right way to do it is epoxy primer/ground coat{ ks11 primer sealer blk}/base coat{in my case HOK bc-25 blk}/mid coat{ HOK gulf teal pearl pbc105}/clear coat {uc 35} its almost like they should put the suicide prevention hotline number in the tech manual my next one is gonna be white base coat clear coat for sure.if you dont bury any skim coats you make with body filler, with multiple layers of primer and have it completely mint beforehand, it shows bad when you apply the primer sealer, and the paint just amplifies from there, it dosent hide anything.

[aotte1]

Jeff,
Understand, painting at home has its issues, especially a whole car versus a panel or two. Sure it will look great when done! I just did a couple of doors in WHITE for my 1970 Buick. Had planned to paint my 86' stepper at home but family stuff not allowing time to do it. So found a one person shop to do simple driver paint. The draw back is that I have no control of when it will get done. For now it is going very slow, at this pace several months to get truck back. Getting a great price, about 1/4 of his collision billing rate, so he works on my truck as he has time.

The weather is turning wet and colder for now here too.

Really good feeling though when it all comes together.

Trying to decide for my stepper on rear wheel back spacing on 10 inch slots as this effects the amount of front dish. Deep dish looks good, however, to keep wheels inside fenders, axles will likely need to be shortened 1 to 1.5" each side. So is " deep dish look" worth having to shorten axles??

Les

[rip2174]

I'd like to hear more about the motor and harness you bought. You said it came with a pretty detailed schematic? I'm poor with electronics and considering an LS swap and the website you suggested seems pretty cool and OK on price for service delivered. I can read schematics and follow direction, just trouble shooting electronics no good. Any feedback from there delivery would be cool. My friend has a 2009 with LQM9 6.0 and a 4080LE 6 speed. It runs awesome, sounds awesome with stock exhaust and gets 18 mpg around town. That truck is over a 1000 lbs heavier than mine. Seems like a good fit.

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Jeff,
Understand, painting at home has its issues, especially a whole car versus a panel or two. Sure it will look great when done! I just did a couple of doors in WHITE for my 1970 Buick. Had planned to paint my 86' stepper at home but family stuff not allowing time to do it. So found a one person shop to do simple driver paint. The draw back is that I have no control of when it will get done. For now it is going very slow, at this pace several months to get truck back. Getting a great price, about 1/4 of his collision billing rate, so he works on my truck as he has time.

The weather is turning wet and colder for now here too.

Really good feeling though when it all comes together.

Trying to decide for my stepper on rear wheel back spacing on 10 inch slots as this effects the amount of front dish. Deep dish looks good, however, to keep wheels inside fenders, axles will likely need to be shortened 1 to 1.5" each side. So is " deep dish look" worth having to shorten axles??

Les

Hey Les, yeah it sucks painting this thing here. but i like to paint that makes the difference, it takes time and i have more time in the money/time ratio these days but thats gonna change coming up so i have to do something with it now. with the wheels it comes down personal preference/what you can live with. it can be a pain in the butt. are the mags 5x5 bolt pattern? what back spacing? it also depends on how low your trying to go it can be tight trying to fit the 15x10 completely under the fender for sure but if its gonna be stock height and not used as a work truck like 4 tons of stone dust or cement blocks in the back it wont rub/make much difference my american racing outlaws had the same problem they were mint so i wanted to use them but they seemed to stick out more when i put the stepside on there so i sold them and deffered some of the cost for new wheels i ended up using the wheel adapters that were on there again because i got impatient and used wheels summit had in stock ultimately id rather have 5x5 bp with no adapter from 4 3/4 to 5x5 that adapter is about an inch thick stealing away some backspacing but i was able to get the right offset on the new wheels to make up for it. weigh your options take a look around and see whats out there like on craigslist you never know -jeff

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by rip2174

I'd like to hear more about the motor and harness you bought. You said it came with a pretty detailed schematic? I'm poor with electronics and considering an LS swap and the website you suggested seems pretty cool and OK on price for service delivered. I can read schematics and follow direction, just trouble shooting electronics no good. Any feedback from there delivery would be cool. My friend has a 2009 with LQM9 6.0 and a 4080LE 6 speed. It runs awesome, sounds awesome with stock exhaust and gets 18 mpg around town. That truck is over a 1000 lbs heavier than mine. Seems like a good fit.

im still in the process collecting parts to make the swap. the guys at justchevytrucks are knowlegeable for sure {stu imparticular} they set up the harness so it has its own fuze box the wires are labeled and they flash the ecm so that part of the programming is done for you they need to know stuff like what gear ratio your running/tire size cuts out alot of messing around getting the harness converted for you. as far as delivery goes there not far from me so i went and got my stuff from them. from what i seen they sell alot of motors there. the lq9 of course is the motor all the hot rodders want and the price reflects that. there are alot of varibles in doing this swap one thing i found that was cool lately if you go to you tube on that show the 'powerblock' i believe its one of the 'trucks' shows on that. they got an earlier {72? i think it is} 2wd c10 with a big block i saw the first show when it aired last year and they were just talking about a swap but i never watched it again till i was pokin around the other day and they ended up using an lq4/4l80e to make the swap. very informative. check out those episodes if you can find them-jeff

[jpnh]

Got the tailgate done. man, this color is crazy,when there is no light on it youd swear it looks black when the light hits it one way it looks green and other ways it looks teal/blue. unreal. im psyched to get the rest done. i think im gonna do the stepside fenders/steps next when weather permits rainy/cold today again

[aotte1]

That color really came out in the tail gate picture! Very Nice. Look forward to seeing whole truck in the sunlight. Thinking of some white pin stripping , maybe??

We have the possibility of rain and thunderstorms here through next week.

On my rear wheels, would really like the 10" in a deep dish.

Les

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by aotte1

That color really came out in the tail gate picture! Very Nice. Look forward to seeing whole truck in the sunlight. Thinking of some white pin stripping , maybe??

We have the possibility of rain and thunderstorms here through next week.

On my rear wheels, would really like the 10" in a deep dish.

Les

I thought about stripes or a two tone paint job but im gonna wait till i get everything this color and see if it needs it or not. i was thinkin mabe the white letters on the tailgate ive seen different rigs with 'chameleon' type paint that were flashing a rainbow of different colors they can easily be "too much" and give u a headache just looking at it. this paint is different its more subtle and reverts to black when the lights not on it im not trying to end up in the shack of shame if its too much ill mask something off and re spray it.
Your wheels look awesome with the new tires mounted -jeff

[rip2174]

thank you for the info.

[aotte1]

Jeff,
Waiting till all painting complete sounds good. The white tailgate letters often looks good, have seen several trucks where it looks really good. Plan to do same thing on my truck, consider adding white (possibly black) accent once painting completed.

Les

[jpnh]

comes apart easier this time still hurts my feelings to take it apart again

[jpnh]

nice day today, drying right,gotta get the bed off the frame again so i can get in between the cab and bed thats the difference between sprayn a car and a truck cant leave it you know your gonna get ragged if you do. gotta get everything apart for the next clear day supposed to rain the next few days.hope i have enough material to finish i know i have enough paint its everything else thats in question.

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by jpnh

im still in the process collecting parts to make the swap. the guys at justchevytrucks are knowlegeable for sure {stu imparticular} they set up the harness so it has its own fuze box the wires are labeled and they flash the ecm so that part of the programming is done for you they need to know stuff like what gear ratio your running/tire size cuts out alot of messing around getting the harness converted for you. as far as delivery goes there not far from me so i went and got my stuff from them. from what i seen they sell alot of motors there. the lq9 of course is the motor all the hot rodders want and the price reflects that. there are alot of varibles in doing this swap one thing i found that was cool lately if you go to you tube on that show the 'powerblock' i believe its one of the 'trucks' shows on that. they got an earlier {72? i think it is} 2wd c10 with a big block i saw the first show when it aired last year and they were just talking about a swap but i never watched it again till i was pokin around the other day and they ended up using an lq4/4l80e to make the swap. very informative. check out those episodes if you can find them-jeff

found the link:
URL:
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/...ls-engine-swap it was a 71. good reference-jeff

[jpnh]

"and there it was, gone" man the bumper came off much easier this time. last time when i took off the old bumper, there were bolts missing but the few that were holding it on were 3 inches too long crusty and held on untill the last thread atleast now you can loosen them,then turn em with your fingers and their the right length/new.

[jpnh]

deja vu all over again, coming apart for the last time hopefully,takin longer than i want to gotta strip the bed strips down again they were peeling in places due to cheap primer i tried to use. glad i didnt use it on anything else. figures.

[jpnh]

got the stock hood back on. the cowl hood stuck out too far in the back and covered part of the wiper panel hard to get in there. man when i started on the stock hood you could tell many things danced over the hood in its lifetime. there were many dings dents old bodywork pine pitch scrapes took a few skimcoats to get it straight not too bad just time consuming first you gotta sand the sh** out of it then epoxy primer then primer sealer you get it close but then that one ray of sunshine shines through the widnow just right and you see that little dent you missed now you gotta fixit. you try to walk by but there it is glareing at you anything you skim with poleyester glazing compound or body filler takes a couple coats of primer then primer sealer if you dont sand/bury it good with primer your gonna see it .gonna paint the stock hood with the cab and the cowl hood im gonna think about i might stripe it out in some way. got a little finishing to do on it so its gonna be a side project. the first order of business has to be getting color and clear on this thing i have peices everywhere this primer sealer/adhesion promoter is nice you can sand it dry with 320 grit paper and it doesnt get the paper all gummed up.and comes out smooth when you spray over it much finer than the epoxy primer.

[aotte1]

Jeff,
Sorry to hear about your primer problems, know bad material that reacts with your paint is a real . Had it before and no fun.

Just going out to lunch at Wendy's now and followed a 72' stepper done up rear nice in an orange red with blacked out "Chevrolet " on the tail gate. Nice slot wheels, I want my truck back from body shop!

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Jeff,
Sorry to hear about your primer problems, know bad material that reacts with your paint is a real . Had it before and no fun.

Just going out to lunch at Wendy's now and followed a 72' stepper done up rear nice in an orange red with blacked out "Chevrolet " on the tail gate. Nice slot wheels, I want my truck back from body shop!

Hey Les, what sux is it scrapes off some parts easy like it didnt adhere right to the bare metal in other areas it is hard to grind off. gotta take them back down and get some epoxy primer on them first ive come to the conclusion everything you want the paint to stay on needs epoxy primer first that stuff doesnt come off. if not your gonna have issues.especially on the bed strips cant have the paint coming off every time you slide something in the bed theres a guy with an early stepside that screws by here now and then. sounds mean. gives me motivation to do more sanding to get this thing done.masking off the cab today getting closer,

[jpnh]

i always liked the year grill with the paintable parts in the center decided to spray them to match also.

[jpnh]

busted ass and masked/sanded everything with 320 grit not a good day for paint, rainy now they changed the forcast to reflect the same. need some clear/warmer days to pull this off. ill refine my sanding and blow everything out/clean till then.at this stage they dont recommend you clean with any solvents like prepsol and the like. i use glass cleaner/microfiber cloth works good/evaporates,drys pretty quickly.

[rip2174]

Looking good

[jpnh]

Originally Posted by rip2174

Looking good

thanks