72 K30 Build

[patdaly]

I'm not sure how you would hide the flange without feathering a bunch of bondo over it.

If it makes you more comfortable, it probably won't hurt, but you are going to have to but some places no matter what you do, so why not measure carefully, start patch panel slightly big and trim carefully until you have it?

The only real negative on a seamed joint other than the obvious difficulty in hiding it is you generally have an open side where moisture can get to.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I just had an idea but keep in mind i'm not a body man and never used it...

When i was getting ready to do my gas door my uncle also recommended using a flanging tool, but he also recommended using automotive body adhesive like is used in the newer body repair, i don't know anything about it but think its probably a 2 part epoxy?

Maybe there is just too muck area to assemble and squeeze into place tho not sure. Then how to squeeze it all into place? Cleco's perhaps?

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...d&w=Cleco&rk=3

Ether way i like the flanging idea and agree i think it will be helpful to keep it ridged.

Years ago we did a 66 Impala SS (pics in the Hub Garage link below) it needed both lower rear quarters. A friend of mine used the glue on method and it turned out great. Never had any trouble with those repairs. Car scored in the mid 90's out of 100 first time out at the local Concours d'Elegance in 2004.

Cleco's are a pretty cool idea and are kinder than screws I would own a bunch if I did this kind of work for a living. We have always used screws, magnets and various welding clamps. HF sells these intergrip panel clamps also and they have worked well. http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-pa...-set-of-4.html

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I bought the same flange tool from HF as well. it worked good for punching hole to spot weld parts together. my builder trims the part about 1/2" bigger and steps a flange in it makes for a stronger joint and you don't have the warping issues from but welding sheet metal together.

I agree 100%!

Originally Posted by patdaly

I'm not sure how you would hide the flange without feathering a bunch of bondo over it.

If it makes you more comfortable, it probably won't hurt, but you are going to have to but some places no matter what you do, so why not measure carefully, start patch panel slightly big and trim carefully until you have it?

The only real negative on a seamed joint other than the obvious difficulty in hiding it is you generally have an open side where moisture can get to.

I wish this tool would make a deeper flange but I'm surprised at how close to flush it is. A little butt welding but no biggie, I think we can hide most of the repairs.

[7dee2]

Recently we used all butt welds on my ½ ton project and I’m really pleased with the results (we were able to hide all the many cab repairs that project required, lots of time invested but worth it to me) this truck is planned to be the looker of the current three. My K30 project is being built for another purpose more of a working, camping, parts hauling, fun type truck. Built with extra/saved parts to help keep the ½ ton cherry and to replace my sweet C30 flatbed with a heavier duty BB 4x4 version!

Decision is made we are moving forward with the flange type repair for this project. I believe it is going to make a stronger repair. The flanges will be internally hidden inside the inner and outer roof skin for the upper repair. The lower will also be hidden internally between the inner and outer back panel. The nice thing is the only place the flange repair will show is behind the seat/gas tank and this area will have a gas tank, sub box or carpet haven’t gotten that far yet. I know the misses wants a bench seat for sure, dang I already have an extra set of blazer bucket seat frames and a console we bought from board member bluek5 that I was going to use. One more thing the exterior will be hidden by the headache rack from the flatbed so it will mostly hide any body work. To help deal with rust issues we will use a weld thru primer between the flanges and a coating of rust converter/encapsulator in the internal cavity between skins.

Many years ago I drove a rollback truck hauling forklifts around the area in an old C60 that had had the back of the cab bashed in. It had been poorly repaired and used to leak, vibrate and rattle as I went about my job driving me nuts. That is not going to happen to this truck and I’ll make it look right because I’m a bit of a fuss bucket when it comes to my projects.

[7dee2]

So rolled the inner roof back into place somewhat and really lucked out that it is far enough below the inner seam that there is something to work with.

[7dee2]

Separated the roof skin patch panels they are going to need some work, exterior panel is the worst of the two. They have far more surface rust starting than the cab they are going into. It's interesting how it didn't rust as much behind the dome light.

[7dee2]

Started trimming and squaring up damaged areas.

[7dee2]

And some more squaring and trimming. OK my work is done I have a much larger hole in the back!

[mjensen]

Looking good Brett!

[7dee2]

Thanks Mike.

The RV guys had moved the dome light to the left b pillar so it will get the same flange treatment. Trim, strip, flange and then fit patch panels.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good sir! I hope you and your family have a very Merry Christmas too!

[7dee2]

Thanks Big D! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you sir!

[7dee2]

Killed the 1st HF flanging tool big surprise, made it roughly 102” with about 60” or so to go and it won’t bend metal anymore. Ha, no biggie I’ll grab another one and hopefully it will last to finish the job. Maybe this time we’ll even make sure to keep the air pressure less than 90 psi as recommended, oops!

You may notice from the pics that we decided to stagger all the patch panel seams. Thinking this will also make for a stronger repair.

[mjensen]

Looking good!

[swamp rat]

Curious if the flange is deep enough for the metal to sit flush? maybe have to go back over it again with the new flanger tool? Nice progress!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mjensen

Looking good!

Thanks Mike.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Curious if the flange is deep enough for the metal to sit flush? maybe have to go back over it again with the new flanger tool? Nice progress!

No it does not sit flush I wish it did but, it's pretty close. Thanks Rat.

[7dee2]

HF flanging tool #2, roof areas are now flanged. Went back over some of the other areas to make sure the flange was as deep as the tool would go.

[swamp rat]

Watching and learning!

[DWilbur]

My builder screws the parts together by drilling a hole and installing screws by hand so he does not warp the metal. I asked him why by hand. he said that screw guns you don't have control how tight the screw grabs and it will warp the metal. I noticed that you are step notching the cab you are working on and the corners are not stepped do to the tool not able to reach the corners. you might try stepping the part so you can step notch all the way around. looking good

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Watching and learning!

Originally Posted by DWilbur

My builder screws the parts together by drilling a hole and installing screws by hand so he does not warp the metal. I asked him why by hand. he said that screw guns you don't have control how tight the screw grabs and it will warp the metal. I noticed that you are step notching the cab you are working on and the corners are not stepped do to the tool not able to reach the corners. you might try stepping the part so you can step notch all the way around. looking good

Thanks guys, we're learning also and appreciate the feedback. You can get a flange in the corner if you make the corner round instead of square.

[DWilbur]

That's good that you can flange the corner and grind down the part your installing.

[7dee2]

Or you can do it like we are and that is just cut the corner out of the patch at a 45, easy peasy! Either way it's gonna work and that's making me happy!

[7dee2]

Fitting the separate roof patches. Both will need more work before they are ready for final install.

[DWilbur]

The patch panels are looking good. lots of welding to do.

[7dee2]

Thanks, I know and I keep finding/making more stuff to weld! Ha!

[7dee2]

Fitting the large back patch panel and decided not to separate the inner and outer panel as above. Originally thought it might be easier to install but found it wasn’t really necessary. Also this patch is in better shape than the upper.