Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK

[kieth]

Originally Posted by kieth

My brother is making (with a stero lithograph printer) copies of the metal bracket required to adapt the 9 tooth power window unit. 10-12 of these will be available for free prototype testing. Only charge will be for postage....first come first served. Call or text 918-630-4665------email kieth.ruleco@hotmail.com

update, guy who digitizes the part has been on vacation. Will get started on bracket this week. Kieth

[88k5jimmy]

Originally Posted by kieth

update, guy who digitizes the part has been on vacation. Will get started on bracket this week. Kieth

Kieth

Did you find takers for your prototype testing?

UPDATED VIDEO;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9_7...ature=youtu.be

this shows my install of the retro window crank handle from Auto Loc; ALso my complaining of the PRICE!!! $100 per side; and the thing BINDS when engaged! What a low end piece of garbage, IMHO.

Speaking of low end pieces of garbage, you will see the other set of retro crank switches I bought, from Dannys Rod Shop on EBAY. these have a knurled shaft that does not even close fit my handles. My guess, fits 67-72. My loss, $139 gone.

In any case, the pass window is done on inside, now I need to run wires to ignition fused and GND.

BTW, does anyone know a good pass through that I can shuttle wires from cab to door? Something nice? I saw a spring with great mount for door and cab, wires ran through spring, I am sorry I did not buy when saw....

further, I have video coming where I do actual modification of regulator and mount motor to it for prep for drivers door, coming in next day or so.

Lastly, I may give you a sneak peak at a new product I am testing out, is a solid state module that will add one-touch express window up/down and power door lock control, also has receiver and transmitter fob for remote entry.

Steve

Any updates on window switch after the Auto Loc one? What about wiring routing update?

[Steve Van Gent]

Steve

Any updates on window switch after the Auto Loc one? What about wiring routing update?


********************************************************

Sorry, been distracted. No, sadly, the Auto Loc switch is best I have found. I dont think a DIY version will work the way I want with the time I am willing to invest. I would love it if someone would work that angle;

On the routing, I ran wires as inconspicuously as I could, but I will be re-running them soon and post an update.

Lastly, for Express up and down, I am testing a module for a friend that is in beta design phase right now; it is programmable and one use is for power windows; This one has been programmed for use in a vehicle with retro handles; Is very cool what user can do with OEM old school handle! I will post details once install is complete and pretty.

[Pontiacgurudan]

As a motorcycle mechanic I started thinking about the shift mechanism, the shaft has a centering spring that straddles a pin holds the spring and acts as a stop to limit travel. If I can find a mechanism with the same spline as the window lever I think I can make a stout switch using a couple micro switches and relays. Here's a pic of a Honda shift mech with the spring. Anybody have any thoughts on this idea?

[1enick72]

Late but following

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by Pontiacgurudan

As a motorcycle mechanic I started thinking about the shift mechanism, the shaft has a centering spring that straddles a pin holds the spring and acts as a stop to limit travel. If I can find a mechanism with the same spline as the window lever I think I can make a stout switch using a couple micro switches and relays. Here's a pic of a Honda shift mech with the spring. Anybody have any thoughts on this idea?

That is a cool idea! Had not considered this. How much are these Shift mechanisms? Still need a cam and switches mounted to toggle...

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Almost two months latter Any info on the wire run?

Again, sorry for lack of update. I will get some photos posted soon-ish. Wife Booked us a cruise, I will need to deal with that first...Happy Wife, etc...

[Pontiacgurudan]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

That is a cool idea! Had not considered this. How much are these Shift mechanisms? Still need a cam and switches mounted to toggle...

You can get them on eBay or out of almost any Japanese motorcycle. I've been digging around and found one with the correct spline but the shaft is too long. I have a handful more to go through, if I don't find the perfect match I'll start cutting and welding. I'll try to post some pics soon, doing it at work on during downtime.

[The Rocknrod]

Install start to finish video group:
https://youtu.be/9sSZrrlKBo4
https://youtu.be/_YLSsTWEdvg
https://youtu.be/sZAsww1DURs
https://youtu.be/h9_7agUeQIs
https://youtu.be/bYWVZdToj84

[88Stanger]

Thanks for all the updates gentlemen!

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by kieth

update, guy who digitizes the part has been on vacation. Will get started on bracket this week. Kieth

I email you this weekend for info on that bracket.

[Sick5]

ok who has the parts list?? lol

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by Sick5

ok who has the parts list?? lol

The parts list is scattered in this thread, but trust me, it is all here. When I get a few free minutes, I will pull it all together...

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

The parts list is scattered in this thread, but trust me, it is all here. When I get a few free minutes, I will pull it all together...

Thank you so much for the write up and the you tube. read all this again and watched all your videos, great stuff.

With that said, i have found all four motors on Amazon and the pigtails. Any new updates on this? I know one person added some metal to the back to mount the motor differently, did this pan out or ? I was wondering if it made installing the wing window any easier?

Thanks again.

[CousinTone]

Hey all, ave got a quick update that addresses the spacing issue for the use of the square body plate and the Astro van that Steve posted a while back.

As I was watching his videos, over and over to understand the process, I followed his guidance and came up with a few updates that will make the fit a bit more square and not place any extra pressure on the post/axle of the teeth in the motor.

Here’s a few pics of how I followed Steve’s instructions and where I added some updates.

For the motor, I used a small angle grinder, it’s easier to manage this close cut and not damage the sector or gear teeth, you have to grind at an angle to miss the teeth while removing the gear cover, so go slow and carefully.

You also need to grind down the rivets as seen adjacent to the opening and you can see that started as I cut.

[CousinTone]

As you remove the gear cover, go ahead and smooth the new opening with a file or carbide burr.

[CousinTone]

As you prepare to place the mounting plate, I drilled our the four mounting holes Steve identified with a 13/64” drill bit. I also took 4 “10 bolts and drilled out the threads for use as a spacer. Once I had everything drilled out/prepped I placed the bolts over the 4 holes and placed a couple dots of instant glue to hold them in place throughout the process.

I also put some assembly lube on the head of the gear and the teeth of the sector…that’s the red stuff…

[CousinTone]

Now you’re ready to line everything up for mounting and mark the adapter plate for the two bolts (the sector is pictured here and the face you see will be in the “meat” part of this sandwich) that will hold it to the motor & regulator assembly.

As you will see, two holes need to be drilled as Steve points out and again I used the 13/64th drill bit. These turn out to be “blind” or real hard to get to!! Here’s where I reversed Steve’s process and placed “10x1” machine screws on the inside of the attachment plate and spot welded them in place. Depending on your welding skill, you may need to grind down the size of your spots to clear the small are they are now at home. One way to hold them is to bolt them in place and then spot weld them then remove the bolts. This will ensure they’re straight and will mate with everything else.

[CousinTone]

Now you’re ready to assemble all your tedious and hard work. Go ahead and bolt everything together…I used nyloc (sp?) bolts and blue thread locker. You can see how the plate sits flush and does not sit proud of the regulator assembly and is pretty solid and should handle all the shake/rattle/roll we have in our daily driving.

Any questions, please reach out.

Here’s the final product…..

[62stilo]

I'm trying this on my 62 C10. it works perfect on the bench however when I install it will only go up a little. Regulators and window weatherstripping is all new. Anything suggestions?

[CousinTone]

Originally Posted by 62stilo

I'm trying this on my 62 C10. it works perfect on the bench however when I install it will only go up a little. Regulators and window weatherstripping is all new. Anything suggestions?

Check your window tracks and make sure they are parallel. If it’s getting stuck and it’s straight and the correct width, lubricate the new rubbers, the felts won’t/shouldn’t be an issue but do make sure they are fully installed against the doors. Try some dielectric grease, sparingly in the rubbers. That stuff is incredibly slick and may give you the mechanical edge you need with the weight and newer, less hefty motors.

Also, did you remove the spring from the regulator? That does give the unit extra friction and with the motor, I found, on mine it’s not needed, it’s designed to hold the window up/in place and the motor does that now.

Good luck

[62stilo]

Originally Posted by CousinTone

Check your window tracks and make sure they are parallel. If it’s getting stuck and it’s straight and the correct width, lubricate the new rubbers, the felts won’t/shouldn’t be an issue but do make sure they are fully installed against the doors. Try some dielectric grease, sparingly in the rubbers. That stuff is incredibly slick and may give you the mechanical edge you need with the weight and newer, less hefty motors.

Also, did you remove the spring from the regulator? That does give the unit extra friction and with the motor, I found, on mine it’s not needed, it’s designed to hold the window up/in place and the motor does that now.

Good luck

I did remove the springs. I'll make sure it's parallel. Would it affect it going down? it goes down without any issues?(parallel)

[CousinTone]

Originally Posted by 62stilo

I did remove the springs. I'll make sure it's parallel. Would it affect it going down? it goes down without any issues?(parallel)

That’s weird. Going down, I’m sure we all agree, SHOULD be easier. I’ll think and look at mine…I’ve got the skin off and will look as it operates and check for any differences in up vs. down. TV

[Steve Van Gent]

Hi Team,

Very clever ideas, I applaud you all.

on the 62, please remember that the spring is a helper and is there to help with the weight of the glass, but it can be put back on backwards! In this case it would go very fast one way and hardly move in the other direction;

[rustbucket66]

Some good ideas here. I am following this one closely too. I have had two different electric window kits in my truck and they have both failed. They were both the worm gear type. Barely enough power and they get stuck on the slightest resistance. Even the wires into the motor are very thin guage so there is no way there could be much torque. I am going with the same motors shown here and staying with parts that the General built.