Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!

[biketopia]

Yup! are you setting in for good or are you pulling it back out? I'd get the old broken hardware out of the head before putting in chassis for the final time.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by biketopia

Yup! are you setting in for good or are you pulling it back out? I'd get the old broken hardware out of the head before putting in chassis for the final time.

Hopefully it is going in place and staying. I'd rather not pull the motor back out after I get it in there. But, maybe I need to?

What broken hardware are you talking about?

[ls1nova71]

I think he's talking about the broken exhaust manifold bolts. Those are way easier to do outside the truck.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I think he's talking about the broken exhaust manifold bolts. Those are way easier to do outside the truck.

Gotcha. I am planning to pull the exhaust manifolds,and the a/c, off before I put the motor in. After reading a lot of threads, neither one seem to fit as it is. So, for the time being, I'll go without a/c, and look for different option on the exhaust.

[biketopia]

Yup, was referring to the broken manifold bolts still in the head, much easier to work on with it in front of you, not sprawled out in an engine bay. .

[EagleChief]

So, went to measure my frame rails last night. This never even registered that something was different. But, I realized that the frame rail has been "adjusted" to make some clearance. Don't know how they did this, or why, but maybe it'll give me some room to keep the a/c?

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

So, went to measure my frame rails last night. This never even registered that something was different. But, I realized that the frame rail has been "adjusted" to make some clearance. Don't know how they did this, or why, but maybe it'll give me some room to keep the a/c?

That bend in the frame is factory and if the engine is in just the right place. the AC compressor fits nicely there.

[ls1nova71]

Yep, I'm pretty sure that bend in the frame is for fuel pump access on original engines, they're all that way.

[EagleChief]

OK. Good to know. Thanks, guys.

[EagleChief]

Looking at this oil pan kit from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...QAvD_BwE#qaTab

Anyone used it, or know for sure if it will fit in the trucks?

[gmc684x4]

I would set my engine in place first and see how low the truck pan hangs down then look at pan dimensions to see what will fit better

Placement how far forword or back and how high the engine sits will all play a large factor on which pan you will need

Give two strangers the same c10 and the same ls motor chances are both trucks will have different placement of the engines needing different clearances for the oil pan

[EagleChief]

Well, by my estimates (took some rough measurements last night), the current pan drops below the crossmember about 2.5"-3". Now, a normal truck height, that might be ok. But, my truck is lowered 3.5" in front, 5" in the rear.

I don't really want to put the motor in to see if it will work, then have to take it back out and order new parts. I want to have it ready to go, install the motor, and be done with it. I'm borrowing an engine hoist that I need to get back to it's owner, and have to have help and/or guidance putting the motor in.

[99_Sierra]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I just bought a 6.0L LQ9 for $375. I cringe when I have to spend that much on a fuel pump or tank. There has to be a cheaper way. I am leaning into using a stock fuel pump but retro fitting into my existing tank.

Here are snapshots from a post I read on facebook. I think I am going to go this route on my swap.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Looking at this oil pan kit from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...QAvD_BwE#qaTab

Anyone used it, or know for sure if it will fit in the trucks?

I've used that pan in a couple of trucks. I make my own engine mounts, so take that into consideration, but it usually hangs down roughly 1/2" below the crossmember. That pan is about an inch to inch and a half or so shallower than the stock truck pan. You also won't be able to get both bottom bellhousing bolts to bolt into it, which is fine, so don't freak out about that.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 99_Sierra

Here are snapshots from a post I read on facebook. I think I am going to go this route on my swap.

Had a friend do this years ago, the noise was terrible! You couldn't put enough insulation on the tank to not hear it even with the truck running. But if you are fine with that, it will work.

[kev2809]

from what ive been reading, the Cadillac cts-v pan is the best bet for lowered trucks. thats probably what i will end up using since mine has air suspension

[gmc684x4]

The other good pan is the holley pan or its fleabay knock off lots simaler to the fbody pan but the sump forward is shorter

The muscle car pan is deeper then the fbody pan

Personally I will set it in place and order from there or just go with the holley pan which is like the fbody pan 2.0

[biketopia]

The f body or one of the holley (or copy) swap pans is your best bet for fitment. I don't know who said the CTS-V pan was best, it's almost an inch deeper than the F-body. I'm pretty sure I've posted this here before, but here is a great link with all the pan dimensions. https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by biketopia

The f body or one of the holley (or copy) swap pans is your best bet for fitment. I don't know who said the CTS-V pan was best, it's almost an inch deeper than the F-body. I'm pretty sure I've posted this here before, but here is a great link with all the pan dimensions. https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

its not like im making it up. ive personally havent used it, but its all over the board as an option for lowered trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=ctv+pan

[ls1nova71]

The CTS-V pan is closer in physical shape to an old small block, thats why it fits well. The F body pan, while not deep, has a very long sump which requires the engine to be set back further.

[biketopia]

I stand corrected.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by biketopia

The f body or one of the holley (or copy) swap pans is your best bet for fitment. I don't know who said the CTS-V pan was best, it's almost an inch deeper than the F-body. I'm pretty sure I've posted this here before, but here is a great link with all the pan dimensions. https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

You have shared that link with me. It has given me a lot to think about. Size wise, it looks like the Holley kits are the way to go. Seems like they have the lowest profile out of those options.

I just didn't want to have to shell out any more money. But, I guess that would happen if I bought the wrong kit/setup, then had to change it out for another one due to it not fitting, or hanging down too low.

[Joemomma1]

Is removing the front end an option? Otherwise I'd say plan on pulling multiple times for clearances. There are some patterns forming here that you should avoid. The truck pan will work, avoid buying parts ahead of time and you're going to spend more money than you wanted. That's just what it is. Set it in as is then identify what you'd like to adjust. GET IT IN AND GET IT RUNNING. This is a really simple swap for these trucks, don't go making it difficult.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by Joemomma1

Is removing the front end an option? Otherwise I'd say plan on pulling multiple times for clearances. There are some patterns forming here that you should avoid. The truck pan will work, avoid buying parts ahead of time and you're going to spend more money than you wanted. That's just what it is. Set it in as is then identify what you'd like to adjust. GET IT IN AND GET IT RUNNING. This is a really simple swap for these trucks, don't go making it difficult.

curious, what do u mean by the truck pan will work? as far as clearance?

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by kev2809

curious, what do u mean by the truck pan will work? as far as clearance?

Yup, after you corrected me on the CTS-V pan I looked at the measurements more than just depth, and the stock truck pan is shorter front to back in the sump area, which should allow it to work in most cases, it's just deep so it hangs low.