Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread

[Ol Blue K20]

Hey Mike, I'll throw an old cliche at you. "Where there's a will there is a way". You'll figure it out I'm sure of it

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Hey Mike, I'll throw an old cliche at you. "Where there's a will there is a way". You'll figure it out I'm sure of it

I have options and I'm still talking to ORD about their brackets. I gave them the dimensions on the passenger side and we are discussing the possibility of doing some trimming to see if they will fit. Otherwise there are precut tabs and things for link and shock mounts available through DIY4X and others. The main thing is not to over-think it.

Todays progress was just cleaning the gunk off the D60. I think the driver side axle bearing and seal is wore out. Seems a bit too loose in there. Which would explain the heavy dirt/oil build up on that side.

A buddy of mine from the navy might be spending some time with me. He's a mechanic and I might have him take a look at the axles and do some other work I have been putting off. Its a rare thing for me to have company in my garage, although my girlfriend says I look hot being all mechanicky and stuff out there.

[hgs_notes]

Looks like I will be using something other than the ORD mounts. Just isn't a good fit and they were not enthusiastic about my intended mods. But I'm not too worried. As I said before there are precut tabs for fabricators and I know some people that can help me out. I'll figure it out.

I will finish removing things that are in the way on the jimmy, wheel tubs, shocks, brackets, bumper, etc. Then slide the new axle underneath and on jack stands. Start designing from there.

[hgs_notes]

Really didn't do a ton on it this weekend. Friday I cleaned off most of the grunge from the axle.




The driver side was extra grungy. I think there is a bearing and seal out on that side. I could see some slop in the axle shaft at the u-joint. The pinion seal leaks a bit too. I figured the axle would need some maintenance. Will get to that before I put it on the road again.

Yesterday I unbolted things to get them out of the way, rear shackles, shocks, etc. Today I got the grinder out and started removing things like the shock mount and rear shackle bushing from the frame. I'm starting with the driver side. Its easy to get to.




I had to go back to August 2013 to find my last total spent figure, which was $4508. Since then I had bought a few new parts, a few used parts, 3 tires and a pair of axles. Total spent (as near as I can figure) is now $4908.

From what I have seen for kits, or custom built coilover swaps it would normally cost around $7-10k to do this. That includes the parts required for the swap itself, cross-over steering (required), axles, wheels and tires plus labor. And $10k is probably conservative. I saw 1 kit that was about $19k installed (front and rear).

I'm hoping to do this for $2000 or less. It's going to take still more luck, some patience and more work on my part, but I think it's possible. I'm hoping I can sell my old axles, wheels and tires to help offset some of the cost too.

[hgs_notes]

Today I came up with the idea of making a mock up axle out of wood to make it easier to mess around with for designing. I had some chunks of lumber around that would work, some misc tubing to use for mock links, and I can make brackets from some plywood. If I clamp things in place I can move it around by hand to see how it moves and where it hits, etc. I used some scrap pieces to build up the area where the diff is located. Obviously its not the same as a full size axle diff but should help seeing the up travel limits in most cases.


The length I used is from the inside face of the brake rotor on each end which is about 59". That way I can cut out some 35" circles of plywood to act as a mock wheel/tire later on and it should be somewhat close.

Here I have it centered side to side...


And its sitting at the approximate height for the new tires and in the stock axle position front to rear.


Piece or 1-3/4" fence top rail I can use for one of the links.


For the time being I am looking at parallel 4 link or 3 link suspensions and moving the axle forward an inch or so.

[Frizzle Fry]

Hey Mike, I just read the first and last few pages of this build. No surprise it went from "I'll just build a decent trail rig" to ...well we all know how these things take on a life of their own What an incredible transformation! I'll be reading the rest of the build over then coming days/weeks...

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Hey Mike, I just read the first and last few pages of this build. No surprise it went from "I'll just build a decent trail rig" to ...well we all know how these things take on a life of their own What an incredible transformation! I'll be reading the rest of the build over then coming days/weeks...

Ha! Still just building a decent trail rig.

[hgs_notes]

Another little detail thing I'm working on for the jimmy is new fender emblems. One day sitting in traffic I saw a civic in front of me and something clicked. I got an emblem at the body shop when they were working on one.


A cut here and a snip there...


And I have a modern looking GMC logo! I will use some kind of backer to glue it onto. This isn't the final version, just a test to see if it would work.

[Ol Blue K20]

You're not only a carpenter but an artist to boot...lol..the emblem looks pretty good.

[hgs_notes]

Not a lot to report. I cut a couple pieces of pvc to act as links. I'm thinking the driver side exhaust pipe will need to be moved inboard of the frame rail so I can mount the lower link near the tranny crossmember. I used a piece cut to 32" long and an upper about 22-1/2" long which is about 70% of the lower. That is supposed to be a good ratio. That put the upper link at the frame about where the rear shackle mount was and the axle end was above the axle. If I move the axle forward a tad it should be good.

I scanned a copy of the frame dimensions out of my service manual to help sketch things too. I got a price on 2" .120 wall DOM tubing of $4/ft. About twice the cost of mild steel pipe. And I ordered a woodward fab tube notcher off amazon last night. Good price and the reviews were generally good around the web for it. It's not the nice expensive kind. Hopefully will work good enough for this project.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hck-sppipenotch

My order for a TIG torch and some supplies should be delivered soon. Still looking for a good used argon bottle. I can lease one if needed for $50/yr.

Tube bender plans are available. I have plans for a couple different designs now. A nice JD2 Model 3 bender costs about $300, but the dies for 1-3/4" or 2" tubing are around $300 each and are needed for home built benders too. The reviews for using the cheapo HF hydraulic benders are mixed. Some say don't even try to do tubing with it, others say it works fine as long as you use the correct size die. Also filling the tube with sand prior to bending keeps the tube rounder and kink free. I may pick one up and try it out. If it's a no go then just return it to HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-...der-32890.html

I'm glad I got started on this now. I don't feel stressed for time. I have time to still research and learn some things and tinker around with ideas or options. Once the design is settled on the actual implementation of it should be pretty straight forward.

Bender plans...
http://chopperhandbook.com/bender.htm

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-...er-design.html

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/thr...ake-one.56773/

[Vintage Windmills]

Mike, are you good at Tig and are you using high carbon steel? Are you running the Tig off a synchrowave? I'm looking for my tank receipt to see what I paid.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Mike, are you good at Tig and are you using high carbon steel? Are you running the Tig off a synchrowave? I'm looking for my tank receipt to see what I paid.

I used to be good. I don't know where I am now, but last time I did it there was a 10 years gap and picked it up like riding a bike. All of this project should be mild steel. My TIG welder is just a DC pulse type.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...incolnElectric)

Back in the day I welded many different alloys, high carbon, stainless, inconel, monel, etc. I never got the knack for aluminum though. My weak spot. I'm sure I will need some practice.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I scanned a copy of the frame dimensions out of my service manual to help sketch things too. I got a price on 2" .120 wall DOM tubing of $4/ft. About twice the cost of mild steel pipe. And I ordered a woodward fab tube notcher off amazon last night. Good price and the reviews were generally good around the web for it. It's not the nice expensive kind. Hopefully will work good enough for this project.

that notcher looks fine. the one i have looks like a kindergartner made it and it has make thousands of copes.

please dont use pipe. there is no point it using inferior materials after you spend so much time and effort on the design and all the associated parts. pipe is not desdigned to handle load in the same way mechanical tube is. it is also dimensioned oddly for the easy to find weld bungs. if you dont want to pay the premium for DOM, you can use HREW and still have a tube, not a pipe. as we like to say, pipe is for poop.

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Tube bender plans are available. I have plans for a couple different designs now. A nice JD2 Model 3 bender costs about $300, but the dies for 1-3/4" or 2" tubing are around $300 each and are needed for home built benders too. The reviews for using the cheapo HF hydraulic benders are mixed. Some say don't even try to do tubing with it, others say it works fine as long as you use the correct size die. Also filling the tube with sand prior to bending keeps the tube rounder and kink free. I may pick one up and try it out. If it's a no go then just return it to HF.

again, dont thing that money saved here is a good thing. that is a conduit bender at best. filling the tube with sand or any other excuse to use these for a bender is just that, excuse. these should be called kinkers not benders. if you are making a cage, there is no point in making it wrong and these will ruin every tube you try to bend.

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Mike, are you good at Tig and are you using high carbon steel? Are you running the Tig off a synchrowave? I'm looking for my tank receipt to see what I paid.

so far as i know, synchrowave is a brand name for miller machines. it doesnt have anything to do with the actual welder output.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

that notcher looks fine. the one i have looks like a kindergartner made it and it has make thousands of copes.

please dont use pipe. there is no point it using inferior materials after you spend so much time and effort on the design and all the associated parts. pipe is not desdigned to handle load in the same way mechanical tube is. it is also dimensioned oddly for the easy to find weld bungs. if you dont want to pay the premium for DOM, you can use HREW and still have a tube, not a pipe. as we like to say, pipe is for poop.

again, dont thing that money saved here is a good thing. that is a conduit bender at best. filling the tube with sand or any other excuse to use these for a bender is just that, excuse. these should be called kinkers not benders. if you are making a cage, there is no point in making it wrong and these will ruin every tube you try to bend.

so far as i know, synchrowave is a brand name for miller machines. it doesnt have anything to do with the actual welder output.

I only used the pipe reference to compare costs. I wasn't considering using it. I'm fully aware of the differences. I'm a boiler inspector, familiar with lots of codes concerning materials and how they are used. And I was a certified welder back in the day.

I just need to have a better idea of how much I need before I order it so I'm not wasting money getting too much. Also my supplier here doesn't have .120 wall tubing in 1-3/4". I will look at some other suppliers to see if I can find that or just get a better price.

On the bender, I agree. If I save money there to end up spending more on tubing I'm not saving anything. But filling the tube with sand isn't really an excuse. It's something that works even on tube benders to help keep the tube shape and prevent kinks in tighter bends or thinner wall tubing. It helps spread the tension and compression load throughout the tube more. The outer side of the curve is stretching and thinning while the inner radius is compressing and will tend to kink. Some things even a boiler inspector (and not a race car chassis builder) needs to know.

I'm just going to have to keep looking for deals on dies or used benders. I've seen a few used ones on craigslist and the sellers want a same as new price for them.

The synchrowave is a series of miller welders that are AC/DC. Mine is only DC, so I can't weld aluminum with it. I don't think all DC welders have the pulse feature, which makes vertical welding easier.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

gotta love the color!

[Low Elco]

There's a guy here in KC that's been building a really neat trail truck. I keep lookin g for his link. HA! foound it!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522161

[hgs_notes]

Bought an argon bottle off ebay. With shipping its about half the cost of a new one. The hydro date is supposed to be current. Will have it long enough to swap it at the gas supply place. And a fellow board member will be sending me a flow meter for it, so I can start shaking the rust off my TIG skills in a couple weeks.

TIG isn't really needed for this project BTW. My MIG will handle most of this work. It's just something I've been wanting for as long as I've known how to do it. And it does make pretty welds, when done right.

[hgs_notes]

Didn't do much this weekend on it. I borrowed some concrete blocks so I could lift it up a few more inches. When I had it on stands at the front and rear of the frame rails it sagged so much in the middle the doors wouldn't shut. So I got another pair of jack stands and blocks and supported the middle too. Now I definitely know how important the cable will be for stabilizing the frame. It's sitting about 6-7" above the stock height with the 32" tires. Close to where I think it will need to be and with the stance I think will look good.

I also started removal of the driver side rear wheel tub. Some of the bolts spun so I need to tack weld them down to get them off. I opened up the rear of the torque box. Needs to be cleaned out a bit but looks good. Now I can fix the seat mount better for the driver seat. Once I get the tubs revealed and installed I can clean off the rear bed area and get the bed liner in there. Will be nice to finish that up.

I'm going to make some calls to some boiler repair places I work with to see if they have tube benders. Fire tube boilers typically have straight tubes, but water tube boilers have tubes with bends in them. They may be ordering those pre-bent from the manufacturer but in some cases that isn't possible. And those tubes come in many sizes. It's worth a shot.

[Tom Vogel]

http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm Seen this? Thought it was interesting for sure.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm Seen this? Thought it was interesting for sure.

Yes I have, thanks. Another good option if I decide to have my own tube bender. I know someone that built that one and he has 1-1/2" dies only. Still checking out my options.

[Vintage Windmills]

Mike if you come up empty on places to have tubing bent I can see if some places I know can do it. I called on the chassis out your way but it sounds pretty rusty. I'm almost out of texts for the month. Just a matter of time before I get out your way and check out your projects, maybe I can time it with a couple junkyard visits.

Spinning bolts are no fun. I was afraid that would happen when I was pulling the box off a 2500hd this weekend but luckily the nuts held while the 1/2" bolts twisted off

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Mike if you come up empty on places to have tubing bent I can see if some places I know can do it. I called on the chassis out your way but it sounds pretty rusty. I'm almost out of texts for the month. Just a matter of time before I get out your way and check out your projects, maybe I can time it with a couple junkyard visits.

Spinning bolts are no fun. I was afraid that would happen when I was pulling the box off a 2500hd this weekend but luckily the nuts held while the 1/2" bolts twisted off

Thanks. Appreciate it. You can visit for lots of reasons, Junkyard scrounging, swap meets, beer and bbq. Btw, I came across a 71-72 K10 short stepper the other day. Body is seriously rough, but you probably have enough parts around to rectify that.

[hgs_notes]

Another board member is gonna help me out with a bender. He built the one in those plans from gottrikes.com and knows someone with the correct dies. Looks like I'm one step closer to making the dream a reality.

Cripes I have a lot of stuff to learn in a short amount of time.

[Low Elco]

Heeeerrrrrre comesssss the THUNDA! Muahahahhah!

[hgs_notes]

I've mostly been working lately and not doing much in the garage. I've been buying tool stuff and I finally have everything together for me to try my TIG set up. I have the bender now, but not the dies, those will be available fairly soon I think. I have a chop saw, band saw, belt sander, disc sander, tube notcher, MIG/TIG/Stick welder options, cutting torch, levels, squares, angle finders, clamps and just about anything else I can think of that I may need.

I've been thinking about how all this needs to come together and I think I'm gonna start with the cage work in order to get the frame stabilized. Then do the suspension/steering. I have a good idea of where I think the link brackets on the frame should go, but haven't had the chance to mock that up yet to see how/if it will work. Just mind exercises at this point. I keep reading and researching and I'm finding that there is good info on what NOT to do when building a cage, but as for how it should be done is fairly wide open. Basically make it fit, make it out of the right materials, triangulate, gusset, make good welds and don't do the things you're NOT supposed to do.

If anyone has a good book or other resource they think will help me out then please share. The only books I have found are for building race cars, which I'm sure have good info, but nothing so far truck/offroad related that has any specifics on cage fabrication. Even the sanctioning bodies aren't much help. Their rules are basically that the weight of the vehicle determines tube size and that it should be well built and engineered and if the tech inspector doesn't like it then you're SOL.

So as of now the plan is to use 2" .120 wall tubing. Probably an 8 point cage minimum with tie in to the frame by the radiator, the A and B pillars and behind the rear axle. I may add some boxing plates into key areas of the frame. I may replace some cross members and/or add some to help stiffen it. I will re-inforce the steering box area and where the link brackets attach to the frame.