Silver Dollar

[usmcchevy]

Awesome build, subscribed.

[mrhino]

Originally Posted by brossow

What did you do for power steering hoses? That's something I have to figure out with the LS1 swap in my '72 (someday).

Power steering hose are for a 73-up c10. I change the fitting in the rear of the pump. took it from a old truck in the junk yard when no one was looking, (they charged me a $3 cover charge so I guess were even.) The old fitting threads right in and excepts the older hoses. That made installation easy and cheap two of my favorite things.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mrhino

Power steering hose are for a 73-up c10. I change the fitting in the rear of the pump. took it from a old truck in the junk yard when no one was looking, (they charged me a $3 cover charge so I guess were even.) The old fitting threads right in and excepts the older hoses. That made installation easy and cheap two of my favorite things.

Thanks for the info! I haven't even looked -- how do the fittings go in/out? Special tools required (I'm guessing not)?

[mrhino]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Awesome progress! Glad to see your past the paint portion of your build. As far as painting in your garage goes, I have painted several cars on a dirt floor barn. Yep, you will get some dust in your paint, nothing that won't buff out pretty easy. I only painted one in an actual paint booth, man was that nice! The last one I did I used my buddies portable home made booth, it worked pretty good too, just had trouble with my feet sticking to the plastic on the floor. check it out. LINK HERE

Thanks I am glad to be done sanding. and buffing. The next day after buffing one of my doors, my back was so frickin sore, I could barly move, I thought Id really hurt myself. Laid me up for three days.
I checked out your link. It Looks sweet. The plastic on the portable booth looked fairly thin or is that just a illusion

Originally Posted by smokinstang70

Question... while looking through your pictures, I noticed your front brake lines exit on the rear side of your front crossmember... I just disassembled my chassis and I know mine exiting on the front... what gives? I think it makes more sense to exit in the rear... just curious why mine may be different.
Thanks... great build... can't wait to see the final product!!!

When I was putting those on, I kept referring back to my assembly manual, and they showed them going around the front as well. It just seamed to make sence for them to go in the back. Since the truck is pretty much custom thats the way I ran them. Did you check out the rears. I ran them through the frame instead of across the rear end. For a cleaner look.

Originally Posted by brossow

Have you done anything to correct the engine angle? Like you, I'm using the CPP tubular tranny crossmember and it seems to drop the tranny down way too low. This just doesn't look right, either on mine or on yours.

Yea, I ended putting a 1" square tubing spacer under the trans mount. that aligned everything right up. engine flattend out and the tailshaft is right where it should be. I think your right, they welded the mount upside down.

[mrhino]

Originally Posted by brossow

Thanks for the info! I haven't even looked -- how do the fittings go in/out? Special tools required (I'm guessing not)?

Just a wrench

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by mrhino

The plastic on the portable booth looked fairly thin or is that just a illusion

Yep, right on the money it was super thin. My buddy, said it would work fine and would be easier to work with. He was right, it worked great, cheaper and easier to work with. On the floor I used some heavy mil stuff. Not a big fan of that, after you get some paint on it, sticks to your boots like crazy!.One thing to note, my shop door was closed all the way to top of the fans, so the wind wasn't a factor on that thin plastic. It's actually tougher than you would think. Kinda like those thin trash bags. The main thing you want positive pressure so it helps keeps out dust. You can pick up those cheapy fans at wally world on clearence in the fall.

Get this puppy assembled for that holiday drive~

[dougminton]

I can't wait to see it finished. I like the color you chose

[mrhino]

After the Cab and bed went back on. (sorry no Pictures of that.) it was time to start Hooking up the fuel fill.




This is a shot of the fuel fill hose going over the frame



I cut a notch in the rear bed support channel so the fuel fill hose and vent hose could make there way to the stake pocket in the bed





once in the channel, it is not visible from the underside. unless you look straight up into it.



I had to make the hole in the inside of the stake pocket behind the back up light a little bigger. Then slipped the hose onto the Marine fuel fill, and tightened with a couple hose clamps.


Pushed it into the the stake pocket.



Tightened it with the 4 screws and closed the lid.

[tantrumpipeline]

that's a sweet mod, where'd you find that style cap, have you tried filling it yet?

[mrhino]

Thanks, I got it on ebay, but they can be had at a marina. No I havent filled it at a pump Yet, but I have used a 5 gallon can and it worked pretty good. right after adding fuel. there was a strong smell of gas in the garage, but went away after while. the filler is vented that must be what I smelled. Hopefully.

[Mburgess57]

Keep up the great work!!!!!!! Really digging the whole build

[eagleuh1]

Did you get your Thanksgiving ride? Trucks looking great. Lots of really cool ideas.

[mrhino]

unfortunately no. its been cold and raining here for a few days, plus I dont have a windshield. I bought one a several weeks ago, put it in my basement for safe keeping. then decide it would be best if change all the glass. (the new windshield makes old glass look like really old glass). Put all new clear glass. went down to get the windshield. I didnt realized till right then the windshield I had gotten has a green tint to it. I been tiring to get a clear windshield, but because of the holiday It hasn't worked out. Im working on the grill right now. its got a few small gouges on top, and Im sure they will stick out like a sore thumb, once its polished. any suggestions here would be appreciated.

[VA72C10]

Love the filler. I'm not sure on the grille. I've heard you can work with it once the anodizing is off and then re-anodize or clear it.

[Pop's C-10]

Thumbs up on tha filler mod

[mrhino]

well i figured it out, now i just have to spend the rest of the week polishing it.
before


after


before


after

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mrhino

well i figured it out, now i just have to spend the rest of the week polishing it.

Looks great! What's the secret?

[nasqar]

OK now, stop teasing and share the secret!!!!!! Inquiring minds want to know......

[mrhino]

I got my old friend the sanding block out and sanded the trim to reveal the low spots, then took a small drift and tapped the back side lightly till the dent was up the sandded it again very lightly till all that was left was the Low spot again, then took a small punch and tap that low spot up till i could sand it flat and not have the pit. all taps and sanding was done very lightly, the aluminium is fairly thin. it dont take much to ting it back to shape. it took a couple of hours to do 5 spots. here's a pic of the center punch and the dimples on the back side.

[spike38]

I use a rounded wooden dial rod on dent. But on small divots, That would work even better.

Spike

[nasqar]

Thanks for the info, this will be used on our trucks for sure!

[VA72C10]

nice work!

[eagleuh1]

Good thinking. You must have lots of free time on your hands though. Keep at it.

[mrhino]

Thanks for the compliments on the filler neck. As you can see in those pictures, I also added Tailgate cables. Its a pretty easy add on.
First I ground down the pivot on the original tailgate catch/strap to remove the metal strap. On one of my trips to the salvage yard, I pick up some tailgate cable bolts from a Dakota. I cleaned them up in my bead blast cabinet, and cut them down a little so it wouldn't bottom out on the bedside. You can see that they are shouldered so the cable will turn freely no matter how tight you get the bolt



I then welded a nut to the back side of the catch for the dakota bolt to thread into. (You could always use a lock washer and tighten the nut if you dont have a welder.)





bolted the catch back on, along with a new cable I got from Advance parts the number is 38521





The other end of the cable slips on to the original tailgate pivot point.



It looks cool, and it should be quieter than the metal strap clanking around back there.



As you can see the tailgate lays nice and level.

[brossow]

That cable is SLICK!