How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster

[CousinTone]

I realize this is an older post, but being the standard for gauge cluster rebuilds I had a thought as I was reading in prep7for my attempt.

My turn signal tubes are shot and there was some discussion of aluminum taping the inside for increased light output. Looks like the heat generated from the bulb(s) and melting the plastic indicator gel.

What is everyone’s thought about using aluminum tubing with vent slot/holes along the top and using those in place of the paper tubes? I was also thinking of also polishing the interior to maximize the light transmission with a Dremel and the little polishing kit. Does anyone have any thoughts logistically or any other issues you may see, proceeding with this experiment? I’ll document my project and post once complete but wanted to solicit input considering the collective knowledge on this board is second to none. Let me know, thanks in advance for your input. Tony

[The Rocknrod]

Great idea actually. Can't wait to see how you do it and it turns out. Keeps us posted with pics.

[Lugnutz65]

The aluminum tape inside the cardboard tubes was my idea and my bulbs have not melted the plastic. Others have said that their lenses melted.

LINK HERE

Painting the interior of the tube gloss white will help transmit light better. Using aluminum tape on only half the tube (nearest the bulb) may help reduce heat too.

Drilling a few holes or slits along the length of the tube can also allow heat to escape.

LED bulbs won’t dim but would produce less heat.

[CousinTone]

Starting data points.....

Signal tube dimensions:
Length - 3 3/8”
OD - 7/8”
ID - 2 3/16”

Signal Lens Cover:
Depth - 1/4”
OD - 59/64
ID - 27/32 (taper at bottom, top at lens face slightly larger)

So, let’s see what I can find in a Aluminum tube to begin my experiment. I’m not an engineer, so this is my best at getting started...

Any input is very welcome. I’m hoping to develop something everyone may use in your projects and except for full OEM correct restoration, this will hopefully be an option for Gauge Cluster rebuilds that is a “life long” fix.

Here’s my pics to begin my idea. Suggestions, constructive criticism, technically help is welcome and I’ll do my best. Cheers, Tony

[roll_the_dice]

I think this is a great idea...

I did a super quick search and found this aluminum tube that is pretty close to the OD and ID...

It is 7/8" OD and .805 ID

Not sure if the tabs on the gauge cluster could be bent enough to make it work...

Here is the link

[CousinTone]

Thanks Roll,

I actually came up with this idea sitting at the Kitchen Island with my 16 year old son and my blown-up cluster and I looked over at a light fixture my wife has been bugging me to get installed....typical afternoon, right?

I looked at the little sleeves that go over the chandelier base for the 3 lights and the decorative tube was a dead-ringer for my crumbling tubes. I grabbed it and clicked it in the housing with appropriate pressure, sitting in the tabs perfectly, snug and happy. Only issue it was heavy (potential for falling forward and down) and about 1/4 too long. My son said “how about aluminum”.

And here we are. I’ll use the link and give them a call to get the info I need and explain what I’m trying to accomplish. Maybe we’ll get them to offer a set to the members here and we may have an answer to our collective issue with our 50+year old tubes.....thanks again and stay tuned....

[CousinTone]

Tube ordered and it’s affordable. The 12” of tube is $1.61 and shipping is $10.00 LOL......

Looks like I may become a Jr. Captainfab, but using USPS flat rate!

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by CousinTone

Tube ordered and it’s affordable. The 12” of tube is $1.61 and shipping is $10.00 LOL......

Looks like I may become a Jr. Captainfab, but using USPS flat rate!

Awesome! I hate shipping...necessary evil! Can't wait to see how they work.

[tchevs]

Originally Posted by CousinTone

Starting data points.....

Signal tube dimensions:
Length - 3 3/8”
OD - 7/8”
ID - 2 3/16”

Signal Lens Cover:
Depth - 1/4”
OD - 59/64
ID - 27/32 (taper at bottom, top at lens face slightly larger)

So, let’s see what I can find in a Aluminum tube to begin my experiment. I’m not an engineer, so this is my best at getting started...

Any input is very welcome. I’m hoping to develop something everyone may use in your projects and except for full OEM correct restoration, this will hopefully be an option for Gauge Cluster rebuilds that is a “life long” fix.

Here’s my pics to begin my idea. Suggestions, constructive criticism, technically help is welcome and I’ll do my best. Cheers, Tony

3/4” Type M copper tubing is close enough. Home Depot, don’t have to pay for shipping ?
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Aluminum tape inside the tubes will melt the high beam lens if you live out in the country and can drive for a while without meeting oncoming traffic to dim your lights... I found out the hard way when my dash started smoking late one night. The stock bulb in the stock tube is plenty bright enough to indicate that your high beams are on, so it's not something I would recommend. Should work fine for intermittent use lights like the turn signals, but not steady on use.

[msg]

Wow, Im glad I saw this and that I have the LEDs I can swap since I did that aluminum tape brightner step in the instructs originally. Rather than take the cluster out again on those Ill pop in the warm light lower lumen LEDs.

[Riverstory]

I used ebay acquired cardboard tubes - these are sold as "make your own firework" tubes. I really didn't care about the OD - the length and OD were 'shaved' using my bench grinder. Before and after pics. Original tubes next to new tubes. They work great.

[CousinTone]

Still waiting...kinda. Ordered and received incorrect sized tube. OD is correct just 1/8” thick and no lathe to thin it out. Reordered, after double checking and hopefully have some progress next week. Again, $1.50 tube & $10 shipping

[CousinTone]

OK, I’m back. Unfortunately life and my unemployment situation has caused a delay. Anyone in Nashville, Memphis or Dallas (I got to get out of CA, it’s gone to SH*T courtesy of our dip-sh*t Governor Newsome who speaks like a mis-programmed robot, and is as bright as a box of rocks...thank God he’s getting recalled!) who knows of a job in the telecom industry (I’m a selling machine) please let me know. I need to get back to work and this endless interviewing and the “you’re a great guy but over qualified” excuse for hiring a 50 year old is getting ridiculous. Thought that was illegal, guess not.

I need some advice on getting the finally received, correct piece of aluminum tube polished to a great shine, providing the light transmission we’re looking for on this dash upgrade. Have a Dremel and flex shaft, but am running into the chuck grinding against the tube end. If I weren’t bald on top, I’d be pulling my hair out.

Any suggestions on getting aluminum to a high semi-mirror polish? Anyone made their own adapter and can provide some guidance? Thinking of rod stock, cut down middle a bit to hold a Sham-wow or similar but not sure. Microfiber better?

Thanks for the support on this idea.

[theastronaut]

A stock bulb and stock tube is plenty bright enough, no real need to make them any brighter... plus you'll melt the plastic lens since more heat is trapped in the tube.

I understand that sometimes its fun and good to improve certain stock items, but this isn't an issue that needs improvement over clean stock parts. Clean/new stock is a good enough upgrade from 50 year old lenses and bulbs, don't just assume that stock isn't bright enough if you haven't already installed new bulbs and clean/fresh lenses.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

On warning light models, the lenses can be made from sheets of translucent plastic from a arts/craft store like Hobby Lobby or Michael's. You'll have to stack a few layers together to make them dark enough, and lightly wetsand the top layer with 1500-2000 grit to knock the shine off and make them dull like the original lenses.

I'm gathering parts to restore my '64 cluster, and it is the base model with warning lights. I've been looking for the red and green translucent sheets to replace the originals, and have stuck out so far. Going to wander the aisles at Hobby Lobby soon, but I haven't been able to find anything of this type on their website. Has anyone sourced this stuff recently? Any hints on where to find it now?

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Arne

I'm gathering parts to restore my '64 cluster, and it is the base model with warning lights. I've been looking for the red and green translucent sheets to replace the originals, and have stuck out so far. Going to wander the aisles at Hobby Lobby soon, but I haven't been able to find anything of this type on their website. Has anyone sourced this stuff recently? Any hints on where to find it now?

To answer my own question, search "jelly sheets" on Etsy. Several vendors. This one seems the most appropriate.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/2805439...ion1=771726974

[Arne]

The Etsy "jelly sheets" linked in the prior post work fine. They are thin, and self-adhesive on one side. The seller offers 3-sheet packs of any single color for $8.95 shipped. I emailed and asked if I could get 2 Cherry Red and 1 Emerald Green and they arranged it for the same price.

I cut new clear base sheets for each lamp out of blister-pack material, and then layered the red and green sheets to get good color density. I went 4 layers for the red, and 5 for the green. I noticed the high beam indicator was slightly faded where it says "BRIGHTS" so I also laid one layer of red on the back of that insert as well.

The rest of the cluster wasn't too bad, and since as-new looks is not required for my truck I've been able to skip a few steps. Should have it completed in a couple of days, or whenever I get around to buying the paint for the 2 needles.

[Arne]

The end result. Many thanks to @theastronaut and other contributors to this thread.

Before:



After:

[scottofksu]

Looks amazing, Arne! Nice job!