My 4/6" ECE lowering install thread - 72 Shorty

[zicc1835]

this is the ride hight aired up, for now ,ill be lowering the front 4 inches spindles & springs ECE kit although i may bag the front ... i need to FAQ the front before i do . I would like to know how the different hight of the bags effects the TOW IN & OUT or caster camber verses using the lowering springs ...anybody?

[ARCTICFRONTIER]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

Cool picture!

[Rafa72cheyenne]

BFG 275/60/15. I believe the front tires are a bit too wide and rub on the inner fender over some bumps. I'd go a bit more narrow on the fronts next time.[/QUOTE]

what tire size do you recommend upfront?
I currently have 275 60 15 all around and I am also about to go with the 4.5/6.5 drop .

I have the 2/4 drop now. I will be using my 2" spring upfront and not the 1.5" spring.

[Mike C]

Are you changing wheel size? What size/offset wheels are on the truck currently?

Not sure his recommendation, but on my 4.5"/7" '69 short step I did 235 55 17 on 17x8 4.5" bs fronts and 275 55 17 on 17x9 5" bs rears. I'm really happy with that choice. Would have gone even wider in the rear but that's all the tire that will fit on my stepside without bedside mods which weren't on the list.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

I plan to stay with the stock wheels.
I have 15x8 all around I believe, heck to be honest I don't know what BS means or how to find out, so if you can please tell me thatll be great, ill learn something new. thanks!

[cericd]

Originally Posted by Rafa72cheyenne

I plan to stay with the stock wheels.
I have 15x8 all around I believe, heck to be honest I don't know what BS means or how to find out, so if you can please tell me thatll be great, ill learn something new. thanks!

Stock 72 steel wheels were 15x6 not 15x8 and they had skinny (equivalent of 75 or 70 series tires). Hence the rubbing issues when the front end is lowered 4-5" from stock. Since you mentioned your current wheels are "probably" 15x8 they are likely rally wheels (a popular swap on these trucks) Most people run a 15x6.5 or 15x7 rally wheel up frontwith a smaller tire than in back to solve any rubbing issues.

This is a rally, rallie, rallye, etc. style wheel. They weren't used on C/10's until after 1972.

[hdff]

Originally Posted by cericd

Stock 72 steel wheels were 15x6 not 15x8 and they had skinny (equivalent of 75 or 70 series tires). Hence the rubbing issues when the front end is lowered 4-5" from stock. Since you mentioned your current wheels are "probably" 15x8 they are likely rally wheels (a popular swap on these trucks) Most people run a 15x6.5 or 15x7 rally wheel up frontwith a smaller tire than in back to solve any rubbing issues.

This is a rally, rallie, rallye, etc. style wheel. They weren't used on C/10's until after 1972.

Do you know who has these in 10" for the cheapest price?

[cericd]

Nope. Sorry, I'm just familiar with that wheel so I snagged a pic from Google images. I don't believe they were ever offered at 10" wide from GM. Looks like a company called Wheel Vintiques is reproducing them. They call them Series 42. Summit has them in 8" and 10" widths in a few different back spacings and bolt patterns.

[Boog]

10" rallys were never offered from GM.
Summit sells 15x10" truck rallys.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wvi-42-5005042

with free shipping.

[Mike C]

Back space. The distance from the wheel mounting surface to the back edge of the rim.

Wheels are also measure by "offset". The amount that the wheel mounting surface is moved from the center of the rim. A 12mm "positive" offset moves the mounting surface 1/2" closer to the vehicle while a 12mm "negative" offset moves the surface 1/2" further away from the vehicle. Negative offset helps tuck wheels.

A zero offset wheel means the mounting surface is centered in the wheel. My 17x8's are zero offset. An 8" wide wheel (measured to the inside of the bead seat) is 9" overall width so a 4 1/2" backspace is zero offset.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

first off thanks Mike C & CericD for the good info!
okay kool, I officially know I have rallies forsure and they are 15x8
I will try and find the back spacing on them soon.
thanks again.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

my truck

[Rafa72cheyenne]

I think this is before I went with the ECE 2/4 drop
now I want it at 4.5/6

[Rafa72cheyenne]

this is my truck with the 2/4 ECE drop.
now that I have the 2'' front coils.
alls I need to get the 4.5/6 drop is the 2.5 spindles, super track bar kit, and 6" rear coils. and tires to not rub upfront on the wheel wel

[Boog]

Whoa boy Raf! That truck had a real nose bleed attitude before the drop.
It needs the spindles now and you will be all set.

[CG]

Just caught this thread ... OP, your truck in my eyes had the absolute perfect look. Great color, great stance, great tire and wheel combo.

I think I read in there somewhere your tires may rub on the front a little. I had that in my off topic truck. There are tools (or even a bat) that you can use to roll your inner lip and it wont effect the look of the truck at all. I google searched it, lots of YouTube vids on it.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

Originally Posted by Boog

Whoa boy Raf! That truck had a real nose bleed attitude before the drop.
It needs the spindles now and you will be all set.

lol I agree! yes I just ordered them from ECE. should be in in about a week or so.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

Originally Posted by CG

Just caught this thread ... OP, your truck in my eyes had the absolute perfect look. Great color, great stance, great tire and wheel combo.

I think I read in there somewhere your tires may rub on the front a little. I had that in my off topic truck. There are tools (or even a bat) that you can use to roll your inner lip and it wont effect the look of the truck at all. I google searched it, lots of YouTube vids on it.

you mean theres a way for me to keep the tire size I have (275 60 15) and not have it rub the fender? I also read earlier that the nice green truck that this threads about rubbed a bit ... had me thinkin if theres a way of fixin it without gettn new tires.
im going to try searching youtube for it, if someone has the link to it .post it please. thanks!

[Rafa72cheyenne]

does anyone know how to remove the tie rod from the spindle?
im having a hard time taking it off.. I removed castle nut already.
and im banging the bolt with a rubber hammer and im also banging the tie rod up but its not moving. any help thanks.

[Rafa72cheyenne]

and also does the tie rod go in the same way after I put new drop spindle on?
(wich is thru the top, the tie rod sitting on the spindle.)

[TexasLS1]

You gotta use a "pickle fork" - a tie rod separator that you can loan from an auto parts store. It wedges between the underside of the tie rod and the upper side of the spindle, and forces the tie rod out of the spindle. You'll be amazed at how simple. You don't want to bang directly on the tie rod threads with a hammer or you'll risk bending or mushrooming the end of the tie rod, and it'll be junk. You could end up having to cut it out with a grinder by hammering. Pickle fork is your best friend lol

[TexasLS1]

Although a rubber mallet shouldn't do you any damage... Yes, the tie rod will go back on the new spindle the same way - down from the top. Looking forward to see the end result!

[CG]

Originally Posted by Rafa72cheyenne

you mean theres a way for me to keep the tire size I have (275 60 15) and not have it rub the fender? I also read earlier that the nice green truck that this threads about rubbed a bit ... had me thinkin if theres a way of fixin it without gettn new tires.
im going to try searching youtube for it, if someone has the link to it .post it please. thanks!

yeah that's the one I was talking about, not that yours isn't nice too

[Rafa72cheyenne]

Cool thanks!
I will be getting a pickle fork tomorrow.
By "down from the top" you mean the tie rod sits ON TOP of the spindle and the castle nut goes on the bottom of spindle right?

[Rafa72cheyenne]

just finished the front end drop.
now im waiting on the rear coils to get here, probably should be in tomorrow or Monday.