Project Vitamin C-10

[Palf70Step]

Hey Allen, I have seen a bunch of folks with the 67-72's remove the rear cross-brace, and make a new cross-brace at the very end of the frame. That should give you the clearance you need.

[ruffrida2005]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Hey Allen, I have seen a bunch of folks with the 67-72's remove the rear cross-brace, and make a new cross-brace at the very end of the frame. That should give you the clearance you need.

Great minds think alike.

[Alan's Classic]

Removing the crossmember is a great idea. I should have thought about all of this before painting the frame. He said he could make the tank 18" instead of 19".

I had a deal in the works on my Miata to sell it, but it didn't happen. So it looks like parts are on hold again.

[Alan's Classic]

Got a few things painted.

[drogers]

Looks great Alan...

[Palf70Step]

Alan, do you use anything special for painting the brake drums and calipers?

Been a while since I did any and way back when (early 70s) it was just rustolium, but it needed redone a lot to look nice.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by drogers

Looks great Alan...

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Alan, do you use anything special for painting the brake drums and calipers?

Been a while since I did any and way back when (early 70s) it was just rustolium, but it needed redone a lot to look nice.

Nothing special, I just used single stage PPG paint. At the rate I'm going the drums and calipers will never get hot because it only rolls a few feet at a time. If it doesn't work I'll redo it with something else.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nothing special, I just used single stage PPG paint. At the rate I'm going the drums and calipers will never get hot because it only rolls a few feet at a time. If it doesn't work I'll redo it with something else.

I feel the same way. I'm not even worried that my tires are 5 or so years old. Not much use on them & definitely no burnouts with me pushing it everywhere

[scotts62]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nothing special, I just used single stage PPG paint. At the rate I'm going the drums and calipers will never get hot because it only rolls a few feet at a time. If it doesn't work I'll redo it with something else.

[Strodder]

Those hose crimpers look pricey. But nice. I've used ones like those before, and they work great. Practice first.

[jgh64pkup]

i wish i had access to a paint booth

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

i wish i had access to a paint booth

I have a small paint booth that I was going to use as a Sand Blast Booth. You can use your closet for a spay booth..

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I have a small paint booth that I was going to use as a Sand Blast Booth. You can use your closet for a spay booth..

yeah that sounds like a good idea......................NOT

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I feel the same way. I'm not even worried that my tires are 5 or so years old. Not much use on them & definitely no burnouts with me pushing it everywhere

Originally Posted by Strodder

Those hose crimpers look pricey. But nice. I've used ones like those before, and they work great. Practice first.

The crimper was $180 at the swap meet. He told me a few tricks to help me along. Since I have to do all of mine and my neighbors I think it is a wise investment.

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

i wish i had access to a paint booth

It does come in handy.

Nostalgic Air had these fittings for the heater hoses that use the fittings that are on the AC.



Fittings installed.



AC and new compreesor block fittings installed. If you order one of these blocks make sure you get the correct one for your compressor. Suction port is marked on the back side of the compressor. It was confusing to me because the suction side was on Lt hand side (driver), but the part discription says right suction. I couldn't figure that out.



Was going to install the front calipers, but discovered I was missing something...............................Anti rattle clip. I can't find them any where. They should be with my old front caliper hoses. More looking tomorrow.



Here is the part number for the dust cap. My rotors are for a 72.

[Strodder]

If I knew the crimp tool would pay for itself I would buy one. $180 is a good deal, but only for myself I don't think it would be worth it.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

If I knew the crimp tool would pay for itself I would buy one. $180 is a good deal, but only for myself I don't think it would be worth it.

It should save me a lot of time. I figured I'd have to take them somewhere and get them crimped.

I forgot to tape up these bushings. Had to clean the paint off of them. They are suppose to move freely.



Lt side assymbled



I remember taking this off of the frame, but can't remember what it is for. I believe it was part of the automatic shift linkage.

[Captainfab]

Yes that is correct. It bolts to the frame straight across from the selector shaft in the trans. It holds one end of the linkage that comes down from the column. LilRed66 posted some pics of how the assembly goes together not long ago. I just don't remember in who's thread.....

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I remember taking this off of the frame, but can't remember what it is for. I believe it was part of the automatic shift linkage.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes that is correct. It bolts to the frame straight across from the selector shaft in the trans. It holds one end of the linkage that comes down from the column. LilRed66 posted some pics of how the assembly goes together not long ago. I just don't remember in who's thread.....

Thanks for the confirmation. I don't think I will use it right now. The way it is set up now is I have one rod from the steering column to the tranny.

I thought I would check out my switches that came in my American Auto wire kit. When the flat side is lined up with the flat of the impala dash the key is not straight up and down. I cut a new flat on the cylinder and it lines up now. Not sure 100% yet cause I have to cut a spacer for the cylinder. The nut wont tighten down all of the way it bottoms out.



Installed the H/L switch and it comes with the nice billet knob, but I perfer the Impala knob. It will look more vintage and will match the wiper switch out of the Impala.



I want to run a hard line from the pump to the carb. Anybody have any pics of the way they or someone else did it with a serpentine? Also what fitting was used on the carb. Right now it is a banjo fitting pointing to the back of the engine. I'd like to remove that fitting and get the proper threaded one so it can be hard lined.





As you can probably tell by now plumbing is not one of my strong points. I'm trying to figure out this port coming from the pump. I read somewhere to measure the inside of the threads which= .559 then subtract .250 which means it is 1/4" inverted flare. I measured inside the flare and it also measured 1/4". I tried screwing in a 5/16" fuel line that I used on my 55 a few weeks ago and it is too small. I would think it is a 3/8" line for a V8. I'm so confussed.



I'm also trying to figure out the routing of the AC lines. Pics needed if you have any that might fit this description. In the pic I have the fittings pointing to the front. Im thinking of running these lines down right behind the fan shroud. I will try my luck with running as much hard line as possible. I'll have the flex lines to the compressor due to movement and also at the radiator support area.



My thoughts are to run the AC and heater lines in the frame rail and come up under where the floor board and firewall meet. I will be using this bulkhead fitting in the floor next to the kick panel. It's just sitting there for the pic, it will actually be up closer to the vent. Plans are bound to change as things progress. I just want it to look neat and well thought out. BTW The other brake caliper is on and done.

[Captainfab]

The output on your fuel pump is 3/8" inverted flare. You can buy a fitting that replaces the banjo fitting on the carb that will accept a 3/8" inverted flare. I recently looked up one for a Holley on Summit's site and I remember seeing ones for the Edelbrocks also. As for routing the line with the serpentine setup, I have no idea on that. Keep in mind that you will need to plumb in a fuel filter in there as well.

On my Suburban, I didn't utilize the frame bracket for the transmission shifter either. I just ran a rod from the column down to a bracket I fabbed that bolted to the trans selector shaft. It works just fine.....no problems in 120,000+ miles.

[jonzcustomshop]

On the fuel line: what I do first is use a thick piece of bale wire and bend it various ways till I get the route, and shape I want.
when you are done you will have a good pattern to use to figure out your marks for the bends.
hopefully then you only have to do the tube once.

the route I envision from your pic, hugs the front of the block and comes up on the outside corner of the valve cover, then it runs right next to the front edge of the valve cover behind the a/c pump, rounds the corner and runs along the `valve cover intake edge to the carb.

[tiggamonsta]

January 2010 issue of Classic Trucks had a good write up of doing an AC installation. He kept the lines hidden as much as possible. Might give you some ideas.

[4dranch]

As always Nice work Allen....Thanks for the info and pics.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Keep in mind that you will need to plumb in a fuel filter in there as well.

On my Suburban, I didn't utilize the frame bracket for the transmission shifter either. I just ran a rod from the column down to a bracket I fabbed that bolted to the trans selector shaft. It works just fine.....no problems in 120,000+ miles.

Thanks for the info. I tried to search the web on how to plumb a hot rod or how to identify different fittings and couldn't really find the cliff notes version.

As far as the filter goes. Can I just put the filter down on the rail to clean up the engine? If I'm persuaded to put one between the pump and carb, I'll get one that looks decent. Are the Russell inline filters any good? If so, I'm sure I can just get some AN line nuts to use on this 3/8 line or is there a filter I could use that uses the inverted flare? I've seen filters on late model cars that used an inverted flare, but were ugly and a little to big for this application.

Good reassurance on the shift linkage.

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

On the fuel line: what I do first is use a thick piece of bale wire and bend it various ways till I get the route, and shape I want.
when you are done you will have a good pattern to use to figure out your marks for the bends.
hopefully then you only have to do the tube once.

the route I envision from your pic, hugs the front of the block and comes up on the outside corner of the valve cover, then it runs right next to the front edge of the valve cover behind the a/c pump, rounds the corner and runs along the `valve cover intake edge to the carb.

We share the same vision. But is it the way it turns out................?

Originally Posted by tiggamonsta

January 2010 issue of Classic Trucks had a good write up of doing an AC installation. He kept the lines hidden as much as possible. Might give you some ideas.

I use to have a subscription, but that ended. I stopped today but the grocery store doesn't stock it. I'll keep looking. BTW Thanks.

Originally Posted by 4dranch

As always Nice work Allen....Thanks for the info and pics.

Thanks David,


I tried to bend the fuel line the way I wanted it to go. It didn't lay the exact way I thought it would, but still turned out OK so far. I'll fab up a bracket to support and stabilize it around the AC compressor.

[sdailey]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I tried to bend the fuel line the way I wanted it to go. It didn't lay the exact way I thought it would, but still turned out OK so far. I'll fab up a bracket to support and stabilize it around the AC compressor.

That looks good Alan. What did you end up using for the fuel line?

[MacAttack]

Fuel line looks like factory, Alan. Picture detail is perfect.

This is still one of the best threads on the site and I always look forward to catching up and re-reading previous posts.

Mac.