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11-06-2004, 02:59 PM | #1 |
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best way to remove the rear?
okay, i got my truck in the garage, bed on, everything bolted up.
what is gonna be the easiest way to take the rearend out? should i start unbolting the U bolts first and then take the leaf spring off? |
11-06-2004, 03:09 PM | #2 |
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Not sure if you plan on swapping springs, the rear or both. The 4 u-bolts might be harder to remove, than removing rear with springs attached. Especially if they've been there from the factory. I would just disconnect rubber brake hose. Unbolt the shocks and driveshaft. Take the bolts out of the spring eyelets. Then do whatever you need to do with the whole unit out of the truck.
If just replacing the springs, I would just do one spring at a time. Only unbolting the shock for that particular side at a time. Also sometimes easier just to cut ubolts and replace with new ones.
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John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car) |
11-06-2004, 03:18 PM | #3 |
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i'm pulling the rear so that i can have it rebuilt.
the rear has a flip kit on it too, so thats why it wouldnt be easier to just drop the rear. |
11-06-2004, 03:23 PM | #4 |
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You've already had it out to flip it. Why then are you asking how to do it now??
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11-06-2004, 03:26 PM | #5 | |
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11-06-2004, 04:29 PM | #6 |
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now i'm having trouble removing the rear brake line that goes from the frame, to the axle.
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11-06-2004, 05:37 PM | #7 |
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why are you taking it out to have it rebuilt? they can rebuild it while its in the truck perfectly fine.
i would do the ubolts and shackles last. unbolt the brakelines, shocks and driveshaft. have fun with the parking brake cables, i hope you've worked on drum brakes before. then do the u bolts which are probly seized up also. then just unbolt the shackles on the rear and let the back of the springs drop down, no reason to unbolt the front of the springs. use a bunch a penetrating lube and go easy on the break fitting, they strip easy
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
11-06-2004, 06:39 PM | #8 |
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im having the rear rebuilt for next to nothing or nothing at all.
my dads friend knows how to do it all. so its just easier for me to take the axle to his shop, and that way, i can clean it up and paint it some and gives me something to do for a couple days! and no, i have no clue how to take the ebrake cables off |
11-06-2004, 08:16 PM | #9 | |
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You could have someone else do it. J/K. Remove c-clips. Pull axles. Undo brake lines to the wheel cylinders and cap them. Remove backing plates and leave them on the floor, with your truck. OR Leave brake lines attached to wheel cylinders and use bungies or wire to suspend the backing plates temporarily.
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John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car) |
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11-06-2004, 09:11 PM | #10 | |
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huh? why would he pull the axles to remove the rear end?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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11-06-2004, 09:14 PM | #11 |
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anyway, its out now.
all the metal shavings are in the casing haha, and i cant pull the pinion shaft out, even with the retaining bolt taken out. its messed up that bad my next project is changing the speedo gears |
11-06-2004, 09:52 PM | #12 |
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I think John meant to pull the axles so he could take the backing plates off with the shoes and brake cables attached. Hey, works for me.
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11-07-2004, 12:23 AM | #13 | |
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John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car) |
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11-07-2004, 01:24 AM | #14 |
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my abilities include pulling the rearend out, without unbolting 1 single leaf spring and keeping all the brake backing plates on
now, whats a good way to pretty this rearend up? with out powder coating and sand blasting it? |
11-07-2004, 10:21 AM | #15 |
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I went from this (notice tubes) http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/Eatonsetup.jpg to this http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/POR15diff1.jpg
I sprayed it down with Easy-Off oven cleaner, then sprayed it off with water. What didn't come of the first round was hit again with Easy_Off, scraping the thick stuff prior. Ran over the whole thing with a wire brush. Loaded up the spray gun with Gloss POR15 and there you are. I cleaned it off first, setup the rearend and then painted it.
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11-07-2004, 01:38 PM | #16 |
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easy off.... i guess i'll give that a try
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11-07-2004, 02:19 PM | #17 | |
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11-07-2004, 02:26 PM | #18 | |
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is this stuff flamible? oh yeah, looking at the axle, on the drivers side , where the axle shaft goes in, it looks like its been leaking a little bit too. |
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11-07-2004, 04:05 PM | #19 |
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when i need to pull a rear i tend to just bust off the U bolts on the leaf springs makes life a little easier than pulling the springs too. If i remember correctly y ou have a lowered truck i dont know if there will be clearance issues with yours but mine ( i keep mine stock height or higher) i can get in there with a breaker bar and long pipe on it for leverage and can usually bust em off easy. MY one reccommendation would be to use PB BLaster on your U Bolts anmd if ya can use the blaster on it a day or so before then do it just before you loosen the bolts up youll find it works alot easier
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11-07-2004, 05:15 PM | #20 |
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i used pb blaster about 5 minutes before i did it, then i used about a 16" closed ended wrench to undo them. had to use my legs to break the loose on a couple of them the bad thing about mine is that they are extra long ublots because of the flip kit, and i havent gotten them cut down yet.
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11-07-2004, 06:12 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
http://207.44.196.117/vboard/showthread.php3?t=126481
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John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car) |
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11-07-2004, 06:18 PM | #22 | |
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i was planning on taking them off. |
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11-07-2004, 06:25 PM | #23 |
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Just busting on ya. Had a long day today walking around a junkyard looking for a suitable 429 or 460 BBF core. Then I saw the bushing post and the rest of rear post. Just had to laugh and point that out. Without seeing it in person, guess the 4 leaf spring bolts would've been easier. At least you wouldn't have to get down on the ground again. Chalk that one up to experience. Hey, at least you got it and are making progress.
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John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car) |
11-08-2004, 05:45 PM | #24 | |
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11-09-2004, 05:32 PM | #25 | |
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Use gloves, too! The stuff removes your fingerprints for a while... EZ-Off works wonders for changing the name on a boat.
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