Blazer tank filler neck - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chevyboy55 · 11-23-2004, 08:20 PM

Has anyone relocated the filler neck on a blazer tank install? My son & are putting one in his LWB & I am thinking of relocating the filler neck to the rear so it will not be in the way of the crossmember. Also does anyone know if the flange is bolted on? (looks to be) The tank is a counterpart automotive tank.
Thanks, Mike

Huck · 11-24-2004, 09:01 AM

Most just cut the floor support allowing for the height of the tank and the position of the blazer filler. Some also do the rear corner running light access trick as done by Tennman (believe it's written up in GMC Paul's website fixes). The filler is usually bolted and soldered/welded into place. Tank height willl not allow stock mounting of a blazer tank on a truck frame. You need to cut that floor support near flush with the floor!

bouncytruck · 11-24-2004, 12:36 PM

here is the link to the filler neck write up on Wes' site. http://www.****************.com/mark...t_gas_door.htm

Doesn't address your question about changing the position on the actual tank. You could have a custom cell done. I think member fuelcellguy makes custom fuel cells.

chickenwing · 11-24-2004, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huck

Most just cut the floor support allowing for the height of the tank and the position of the blazer filler. Some also do the rear corner running light access trick as done by Tennman (believe it's written up in GMC Paul's website fixes). The filler is usually bolted and soldered/welded into place. Tank height willl not allow stock mounting of a blazer tank on a truck frame. You need to cut that floor support near flush with the floor!

Darn. I thought the tank install part was a bolt on mod. Anyone got a link/pic of what needs to be cut on the floor support? Can you just let the tank hang lower? I've got a C-20 with a big Barden bumper. I'm ok with it being lower if it will still bolt up that way.

Russell · 11-24-2004, 04:21 PM

You shouldn't have any worries with ground clearance with a C20. With a long bed, you don't even have to remove the brake line bracket, and won't have any issues with exhaust.

And yeah, you have to notch at least one crossmember to get the bed to sit on the frame rails rather than the tank, I didn't find that there was any loss of strength in the bed due to this, and my bed is very rusty...

You cannot drop the tank down any lower than it is already when you install it. The tank straps are not long enough to encorporate any spacers you put between the tank and it's mounting strap. You have to notch the bed a fair amount as it is anyways, to drop the tank to clear it would mean that you'd need to drop the tank a good 4 inches...

chickenwing · 11-25-2004, 01:50 AM

Thanks Russell. I'm a savin.... Still checking everything out. This is a will do project. Want tunes and A/C first though.

11-23-2004, 08:20 PM	#1
chevyboy55 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Kelso,Wa Posts: 3,637	Blazer tank filler neck Has anyone relocated the filler neck on a blazer tank install? My son & are putting one in his LWB & I am thinking of relocating the filler neck to the rear so it will not be in the way of the crossmember. Also does anyone know if the flange is bolted on? (looks to be) The tank is a counterpart automotive tank. Thanks, Mike

11-24-2004, 12:36 PM	#3
bouncytruck SKINNY TIRES RULE! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 11,038	here is the link to the filler neck write up on Wes' site. http://www.**************.com/mark...t_gas_door.htm Doesn't address your question about changing the position on the actual tank. You could have a custom cell done. I think member fuelcellguy makes custom fuel cells. __________________ bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride**2014 Fiat 500L

11-24-2004, 04:21 PM	#5
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	You shouldn't have any worries with ground clearance with a C20. With a long bed, you don't even have to remove the brake line bracket, and won't have any issues with exhaust. And yeah, you have to notch at least one crossmember to get the bed to sit on the frame rails rather than the tank, I didn't find that there was any loss of strength in the bed due to this, and my bed is very rusty... You cannot drop the tank down any lower than it is already when you install it. The tank straps are not long enough to encorporate any spacers you put between the tank and it's mounting strap. You have to notch the bed a fair amount as it is anyways, to drop the tank to clear it would mean that you'd need to drop the tank a good 4 inches... __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 11-24-2004 at 04:23 PM.

11-25-2004, 01:50 AM	#6
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	Thanks Russell. I'm a savin.... Still checking everything out. This is a will do project. Want tunes and A/C first though. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

11-24-2004, 09:01 AM	#2
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	Most just cut the floor support allowing for the height of the tank and the position of the blazer filler. Some also do the rear corner running light access trick as done by Tennman (believe it's written up in GMC Paul's website fixes). The filler is usually bolted and soldered/welded into place. Tank height willl not allow stock mounting of a blazer tank on a truck frame. You need to cut that floor support near flush with the floor!



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