Charging System Converting (int. reg alternator) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Blue85 · 07-11-2004, 03:44 AM

Can anyone tell me the proper way to convert my charging system to a new style internal regulator alternator instead of the old external style?

tmcgrawlookalike · 07-11-2004, 04:01 AM

most auto stores(oreilly`s,auto zone,napa,)offer a gm,internally regulated,1 wire hook-up alternator.these were originally designed for tractors,heavy equipment.alot of older cars with externally regulators,bad wiring,street rods,race cars caught on to this that makes it so easy.just hook up the power wire to the stud on the back and go.however,most of the standard units are only a 37 amp output,but you can find higher output units(for demands of ac,etc)in a 1 wire hook-up also.i think you can wire a normal,non-converted,int.regulated alternator by running a jumper wire from the #2 terminal on regulator to power stud also,meaning you may be able to find the amperage output you want by going this route.ok fellow members,help me out on this.i don`t want to lead this guy wrong.

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:32 AM

OK.
First, you want to go to the parts store and get an altenator off of a 1995 or 1998 (can't remember which one)(edit; 1983 to 1987, thanks kwmech for jogging my memory on that) silverado. This will have pleny of amps for you, and will hook right up, with a little rewiring.
The little tag on the alt. says;
ULTIMA
01-0260
38039301
One of those is the part number.
It will look like this;

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:36 AM

Now for the rewiring.
You have 4 wires running to the external voltage regulator.
blue, white, red, and brown.
Unplug the voltage reg.
Cut the blue and brown wires from the connector and crimp them together.
Like this;

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:38 AM

Now the wire bundle that runs to your old altenator from the voltage regulator consists of the Red, White, and Blue wires. (Never noticed how patriotic that was before.

)

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

The white wire is now pointless. So terminate it in some way.
I just ended it with a wire crimp.

**kwmech** · 07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

The alternator in you pic is not off a 1995 or 98, more like an 85. The 95 alt. were an Si series and has different wiring requirements

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:42 AM

Just use the part # supplied then.

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:47 AM

Now the blue wire, which is just an extension of the brown wire, connects to the tab on the right (number 1 tab). The brown wire runs the the idiot light/gauge in the dash and is there for resistance to the internal voltage regulator. You can not skip this as it tells the regulator what it needs to be doing and when.

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:50 AM

Now the other tab on the altenator needs power (tab # 2). And the best/easiest way to do this is with a jumper.
Run the Red wire to the Big post on the back like normal. And then with a short length of wire, run a jumper from the back post to the left tab.
Like this;

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 11:51 AM

That's it.
You're done.
No more problems with external voltage regulators, and plenty of power to run whatever you want.
Todd

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 12:01 PM

Called O'reilly.
They say it is off of an 83-87 silverado.
KWMech, you were right. I do remember asking for a 90 something. But I think that the brackets were wrong for the first one and we started looking for others that would match up.
You need an altenator with 6 and noon bracket holes as the other ones won't line up to fit properly with the......... brackets.
Todd

**PICKMUP** · 07-11-2004, 12:38 PM

...or you can just plug one of these in & go.

toddtheodd · 07-11-2004, 02:09 PM

At the time for myself, I was in need of getting my ride on it's feet immediately.
I had almost blown up a battery and did blow out the brights on my headlights due to my external voltage regulator acting up. I couldn't find the proper gasket to keep the regulator from touching the frame and therefore went through about 4 regulators in less than 2 days.
I traded in my alt. at o'reillys on my "lifetime warranty" and got the new alt. for free. I already had the crimps and extra red wire, so the installation cost me nothing, and it was done on sunday so that I could drive to work no problem on monday.

YellowMenace · 12-18-2004, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PICKMUP

...or you can just plug one of these in & go.

I got one of these and put it on. Now my battery won't charge. The gauge looks good. It's not the battery because I can charge it with an external charger. I'm going to exchange the alternator on the chance that I got a bad one from O'rielly.

Any other ideas?

I have a gauge rather than an idiot light, btw.

*bisquik65* · 12-18-2004, 08:49 PM

Anyone use a 94 -up delphi style alt. That are on s-10's A put a serp.belt system on my 69 K/20 to have A/C in it and need to firgure out how to hook this one up. Its a 105 amp.

HOTFUN · 12-18-2004, 09:05 PM

Does anyone make a factory style front engine harness with the 1 wire alternator conversion in it for our trucks like they do for HEI conversions?

YellowMenace · 12-18-2004, 11:32 PM

I found another post that said if one of the in-line fuses on each side of the radiator was blown, the gauge wouldn't work. One of mine WAS blown. Does this also prevent an internally regulated alt from charging since the wire to the gauge wouldn't be complete?

68Shorty4x · 12-19-2004, 01:05 AM

This web page had alot of good reading and swap info. Helped me in a similar situation
http://hotrodders.com/kb/electrical/articles.html

kbs71 · 12-19-2004, 02:24 AM

OK guys here we go. There's a company out of California named MAD Interprises. The link is www.madelectrical.com he sells a conversion kit that completely rewires the charging system from the left front corner over to the Battery. He has one for the SI model alts and for the cs (serpentine belt type) on his web site for @ $24.00.He also carries a lot of other electrical upgrade kits. Also Painless wiring makes a front light harness that is wired for either a 3 wire alt or a 1 wire alt but it's pricey. Just do a little reserch and you can find a lot of good things here on the NET. I have an extensive suppliers lists of electrical aftermarket web sites along with parts and information, if anyone is interested.

crustysarge · 12-19-2004, 03:49 AM

I just completed mine last night, took me an hour. I bought the "easy way out" kit and it made it easy and quick. I used a rebuilt alternator from AZ:

DURALAST DOM A/S ALTERNATOR DL7294 1 $30.00 CORE + $69.99 = $99.99

A bit pricey but I got free shipping to my overseas APO so balances out.

This was well worth the mod and I swear my truck (w/HEI) runs better.

HeavyD · 12-19-2004, 04:36 AM

Pickmup, are those 2 parts and a new alt. all I need? Anything else? How much $?

YellowMenace · 12-19-2004, 02:30 PM

Replaced the fuse, swapped for another alternator. still only putting out 9.X volts. Turns out I had missed two of the lugs when I plugged in the long black 4-prong connector. They had slid beside the connector instead on plugging in. Works beautifully now.

The plugs from Pickmup cost $25 shipped. I had originally gotten an Ultima 01-0220 ($70.99 with our car club discount )which is a 94 amp for an 87 Silverado. Swapped for an Ultima 01-0260 ($59.99, same discount) which is lower amps because the nearest 0220 replacement was in Oklahoma. I'm just keeping the lower amperage one since it is still vastly more than the stocker.

07-11-2004, 03:44 AM	#1
Blue85 Oilfield Trash Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Raymore, Sk, Canada, Earth Posts: 3,170	Charging System Converting (int. reg alternator) Can anyone tell me the proper way to convert my charging system to a new style internal regulator alternator instead of the old external style? __________________ 14 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 08 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 87 Chev 3+3 4x4 80 GMC K10 High Sierra bone stock 70 Chevelle 350SS long term project 68 GMC 3ton Grain Truck/Garbage wagon 50 Pontiac 2 Door Coupe Project "I've got a shotgun rifle and a 4 wheel drive and a country boy can survive" Hank Jr.

07-11-2004, 11:32 AM	#3
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	OK. First, you want to go to the parts store and get an altenator off of a 1995 or 1998 (can't remember which one)(edit; 1983 to 1987, thanks kwmech for jogging my memory on that) silverado. This will have pleny of amps for you, and will hook right up, with a little rewiring. The little tag on the alt. says; ULTIMA 01-0260 38039301 One of those is the part number. It will look like this; Attached Images Last edited by toddtheodd; 07-11-2004 at 12:11 PM.

07-11-2004, 11:36 AM	#4
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Now for the rewiring. You have 4 wires running to the external voltage regulator. blue, white, red, and brown. Unplug the voltage reg. Cut the blue and brown wires from the connector and crimp them together. Like this; Attached Images

07-11-2004, 11:38 AM	#5
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Now the wire bundle that runs to your old altenator from the voltage regulator consists of the Red, White, and Blue wires. (Never noticed how patriotic that was before. ) Attached Images

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM	#6
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	The white wire is now pointless. So terminate it in some way. I just ended it with a wire crimp. Attached Images

07-11-2004, 04:01 AM	#2
tmcgrawlookalike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: warr acres,oklahoma Posts: 650	most auto stores(oreilly`s,auto zone,napa,)offer a gm,internally regulated,1 wire hook-up alternator.these were originally designed for tractors,heavy equipment.alot of older cars with externally regulators,bad wiring,street rods,race cars caught on to this that makes it so easy.just hook up the power wire to the stud on the back and go.however,most of the standard units are only a 37 amp output,but you can find higher output units(for demands of ac,etc)in a 1 wire hook-up also.i think you can wire a normal,non-converted,int.regulated alternator by running a jumper wire from the #2 terminal on regulator to power stud also,meaning you may be able to find the amperage output you want by going this route.ok fellow members,help me out on this.i don`t want to lead this guy wrong.

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM	#7
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,678	The alternator in you pic is not off a 1995 or 98, more like an 85. The 95 alt. were an Si series and has different wiring requirements

07-11-2004, 11:42 AM	#8
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Just use the part # supplied then.

07-11-2004, 11:47 AM	#9
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Now the blue wire, which is just an extension of the brown wire, connects to the tab on the right (number 1 tab). The brown wire runs the the idiot light/gauge in the dash and is there for resistance to the internal voltage regulator. You can not skip this as it tells the regulator what it needs to be doing and when. Attached Images Last edited by toddtheodd; 07-11-2004 at 12:07 PM.

07-11-2004, 11:50 AM	#10
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Now the other tab on the altenator needs power (tab # 2). And the best/easiest way to do this is with a jumper. Run the Red wire to the Big post on the back like normal. And then with a short length of wire, run a jumper from the back post to the left tab. Like this; Attached Images Last edited by toddtheodd; 07-11-2004 at 12:09 PM.

07-11-2004, 11:51 AM	#11
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	That's it. You're done. No more problems with external voltage regulators, and plenty of power to run whatever you want. Todd

07-11-2004, 12:01 PM	#12
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Called O'reilly. They say it is off of an 83-87 silverado. KWMech, you were right. I do remember asking for a 90 something. But I think that the brackets were wrong for the first one and we started looking for others that would match up. You need an altenator with 6 and noon bracket holes as the other ones won't line up to fit properly with the......... brackets. Todd

07-11-2004, 12:38 PM	#13
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,160	Plug & Go ...or you can just plug one of these in & go. Attached Images __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

07-11-2004, 02:09 PM	#14
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	At the time for myself, I was in need of getting my ride on it's feet immediately. I had almost blown up a battery and did blow out the brights on my headlights due to my external voltage regulator acting up. I couldn't find the proper gasket to keep the regulator from touching the frame and therefore went through about 4 regulators in less than 2 days. I traded in my alt. at o'reillys on my "lifetime warranty" and got the new alt. for free. I already had the crimps and extra red wire, so the installation cost me nothing, and it was done on sunday so that I could drive to work no problem on monday.

12-18-2004, 08:49 PM	#16
bisquik65 Account Suspended Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: N.C. high country Posts: 6,107	Anyone use a 94 -up delphi style alt. That are on s-10's A put a serp.belt system on my 69 K/20 to have A/C in it and need to firgure out how to hook this one up. Its a 105 amp.



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12-18-2004, 09:05 PM	#17
HOTFUN Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 2,145	Does anyone make a factory style front engine harness with the 1 wire alternator conversion in it for our trucks like they do for HEI conversions? __________________ '66 CST BBW swb fleet 327 fac ac '67 CST 4x4 swb 327 stepside project '72 Cheyenne K20 50k original '72 Cheyenne Super K20 project '73 Sierra swb 4x4 frame off in paint stage '74 Cheyenne Super swb w/16k actual '71 & 72 Cheyenne K10 4x4 swb's '70 426 HEMICUDA conv SHAKER 4 sp Dana 60 '60 Impala conv 327 PG fac ac loaded 3rd owner '72 GMC K2500 4x4 '59 Apache CST BBW fleetside swb 283 '73 ElCamino SS LS1 T56 true SS bucket tach '76 ElCamino SS 52k survivor '87 Grand National 41k True 2nd to last built in 1987. '86 K30 454 SRW fleetside CA since new '88 Trans Am GTA 39k bought new 2018 DEMON plum crazy @ 840HP! "Need for speed"

12-18-2004, 11:32 PM	#18
YellowMenace Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Katy, TX (Houston) Posts: 73	I found another post that said if one of the in-line fuses on each side of the radiator was blown, the gauge wouldn't work. One of mine WAS blown. Does this also prevent an internally regulated alt from charging since the wire to the gauge wouldn't be complete?

12-19-2004, 01:05 AM	#19
68Shorty4x Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 9	This web page had alot of good reading and swap info. Helped me in a similar situation http://hotrodders.com/kb/electrical/articles.html

12-19-2004, 02:24 AM	#20
kbs71 71 rustless in texas Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 257	OK guys here we go. There's a company out of California named MAD Interprises. The link is www.madelectrical.com he sells a conversion kit that completely rewires the charging system from the left front corner over to the Battery. He has one for the SI model alts and for the cs (serpentine belt type) on his web site for @ $24.00.He also carries a lot of other electrical upgrade kits. Also Painless wiring makes a front light harness that is wired for either a 3 wire alt or a 1 wire alt but it's pricey. Just do a little reserch and you can find a lot of good things here on the NET. I have an extensive suppliers lists of electrical aftermarket web sites along with parts and information, if anyone is interested.

12-19-2004, 03:49 AM	#21
crustysarge Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Aviano, Italy Posts: 221	I just completed mine last night, took me an hour. I bought the "easy way out" kit and it made it easy and quick. I used a rebuilt alternator from AZ: DURALAST DOM A/S ALTERNATOR DL7294 1 $30.00 CORE + $69.99 = $99.99 A bit pricey but I got free shipping to my overseas APO so balances out. This was well worth the mod and I swear my truck (w/HEI) runs better.

12-19-2004, 04:36 AM	#22
HeavyD Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Wakaw, Sask, Canada Posts: 3,180	Pickmup, are those 2 parts and a new alt. all I need? Anything else? How much $? __________________ "You can take the man out of PA, but you can't take PA out of the man"

12-19-2004, 02:30 PM	#23
YellowMenace Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Katy, TX (Houston) Posts: 73	Replaced the fuse, swapped for another alternator. still only putting out 9.X volts. Turns out I had missed two of the lugs when I plugged in the long black 4-prong connector. They had slid beside the connector instead on plugging in. Works beautifully now. The plugs from Pickmup cost $25 shipped. I had originally gotten an Ultima 01-0220 ($70.99 with our car club discount )which is a 94 amp for an 87 Silverado. Swapped for an Ultima 01-0260 ($59.99, same discount) which is lower amps because the nearest 0220 replacement was in Oklahoma. I'm just keeping the lower amperage one since it is still vastly more than the stocker.

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