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Old 12-24-2004, 02:32 AM   #1
mblackburnjr
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Question how much will it drop

I would like to lower the rear of my 67 about 2 inches. It will never be a show truck,so i am considering cutting the coils. How much will it lower if 1 ring is removed?Should i use a cut off wheel as opposed to a torch?
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Old 12-24-2004, 04:36 AM   #2
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Mine went about 1 1/2". I wouldn't go more than 1 coil as these are not progressive/variable rate springs. Any more will really effect the ride. Use a torch and cut the spring. Then heat the coil about 1/4 to 1/3 from the end of the cut and then quickly turn over and set it on the ground and push down so that the last coil will be flat on the top like it originally was. Do not quench, allow it to air cool slowly.
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:45 AM   #3
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If you cut the rear coils, you need to do more than that. The rear coils are tapered on each end. You have to modify the mounting of the coil if you cut the pig tail off of the end of the coil.

For a 2 inch drop, lowering blocks are way easier.
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Old 12-24-2004, 11:35 AM   #4
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Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 12-24-2004, 03:15 PM   #5
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I had a 68 that I heated the rear coils with a rosebud. Just blocked under the frame on perfectly flat level ground, left a gap between blocks and frame the amount you want to lower it. Heat don't heat the entire coil just slowly heat and transfer from side to side don't drop one side at a time alll the way. heat just upper coil wrap, and keep moving down untill desired drop is acceived. I drove my truck for a year or so after, no problems, and ride was not changed.
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Old 12-24-2004, 04:53 PM   #6
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If you are only going 2 inches, why not use blocks? You will still have full springs and you still acheive the drop you are looking for.

Just a thought ....
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Old 12-24-2004, 05:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bagged72blaz
I had a 68 that I heated the rear coils...
Not a recommended method.
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Old 12-24-2004, 07:43 PM   #8
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3rd the block deal....try to stick with 2 - 2 1/4" on the block , if you are running 15" wheels......that way, if by chance you blow a tire, you wont have suspension parts draggin on the pavement best of luck,crazyL
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:14 PM   #9
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Are these block's the same one you use on leaf spring's or these block's diffirent for control arm's need pic's please. I like this idea so that I dont have to cut or heat my coil's. Me and my friend were talking about this subject the other day. He also want's to lower his truck and keep his ride smooth. "jalopy tz"
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalopy tz
Are these block's the same one you use on leaf spring's or these block's diffirent for control arm's need pic's please. I like this idea so that I dont have to cut or heat my coil's. Me and my friend were talking about this subject the other day. He also want's to lower his truck and keep his ride smooth. "jalopy tz"
Do a search for blocks. I've posted a picture of them lots of times on other threads.
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Old 12-28-2004, 11:15 PM   #11
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strange when I asked that ? I got about thirtys NO DONT DO IT YOU COULD HURT YOURSELF. bs I was "complaining" about putting a carb kit in let alone $400 on spring right now.
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Old 12-29-2004, 02:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by me3
strange when I asked that ? I got about thirtys NO DONT DO IT YOU COULD HURT YOURSELF. bs I was "complaining" about putting a carb kit in let alone $400 on spring right now.
That just goes to show you have to take advice from the internet with a grain of salt. And it doesn't matter if someone has 2 posts or 2,000 posts. Sometimes questions are hard to ask and even harder to answer. It's easy to assume. For example look at my response above. I assumed the mblackburnjr had thought about using lowering blocks but for some reason didn't want to. Some people don't like blocks, me being one of them. Tx Firefighter pointed out because the coils are "tighter" on the top and bottom and fit in the retainers that more would have to be done. For some taking a piece of 3/16" steel and some solid stock to make a retainer in a hour isn't a problem but for others it could be. The upper springs don't need to be held to the frame, just a means to keep them from sliding out from under it (in fact my HTH kit just has the springs in cups at the top also, no other form of retention at the top). I will argue against anybody that says you can't cut springs but it does create another issue with the springs are trucks use. I wouldn't argue for heating them either. I guess it depends a lot on who answers your posts but overall I'd say this is one of the better forums I know of and I know nobody intentionally meant to mislead you. A lot of people means a lot of ideas of what's right or wrong or what can and can't be done.
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