What tools do I need for a Ring & Pinion swap?

[Destructo]

I'm weighing the costs of putting 4.10 gears in my current 10/12 bolt axles or putting 3/4 ton axles in my truck, I can get the gears + install kits for 450 bucks to my door. 3/4 ton axles probably run me 200-250 or maybe 300 for a good set, plus I will need new 15" 8 lug wheels and will have to grind the front calipers and possibly have to run a 10" wide wheel because of availability, which I don't really want to do because I run a higher risk of losing a bead.

So, anyway, back to the original question, which tools are NEEDED for a new ring and pinion install, I know I need a dial indicator, what else?

[LONGHAIR]

This is not really a job for the average person. It is very involved, it requires a lot of patience and precision. It doesn't take much to ruin a gear set and you are out not only the initial money....but you still have to get it fixed.

[JIMs70GMC]

Are the bearings pressed on to the carrier? I know they are w/ a dana44. So if you have to remove/install the carrier for the correct shims you'll need a press to install remove the bearings when setting up the gears for the correct contact pattern on the ring gear and pinion.

[72k5]

Letsee, top of my head...
1/2" (minimum) impact and socket for pinion nut, dial indicator and holder for setting backlash, low reading (0 to 30 lbs or so) torque wrench with dial readout for determining rotating torque of pinion, adapter from your small drive torque wrench to your large drive pinion nut socket, press with bearing puller to remove pinion bearing, 2 jaw puller (that fits) for removing diff side bearings, calipers to measure shims, lots of shims, spare crush sleeve or two if this is the first time you've set up a crush sleeve pinion, tube of prussian blue for gear patterning,

If you don't plan to do more than one or two in your life, you would probably be better off paying someone who does a lot of them to do it. Of course, if you just want to do it, and don't care how much the tools cost you, or how long it takes, go for it. Makes life more interesting.

I answered this question a while back, in more detail, you might search for that thread.

[Destructo]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

This is not really a job for the average person. It is very involved, it requires a lot of patience and precision. It doesn't take much to ruin a gear set and you are out not only the initial money....but you still have to get it fixed.

I realize this, lets just not worry about that, i'v never done it before, but I had never rebuilt an automatic 700r4 transmission before either.

I'm not your average 20 year old just tinkering, if it can be done i'll do it

I aint skeered

Anyway, it will be right when/if I do it, i'll make sure of that. But I need the proper tools to do it right first.

And yes, the bearings are pressed onto the carrier, the carrier out back will be replaced with a 3.73 up carrier so I can use standard gears and replace the crap gov-loc with a real locker.

[Destructo]

Originally Posted by 72k5

Letsee, top of my head...
1/2" (minimum) impact and socket for pinion nut, dial indicator and holder for setting backlash, low reading (0 to 30 lbs or so) torque wrench with dial readout for determining rotating torque of pinion, adapter from your small drive torque wrench to your large drive pinion nut socket, press with bearing puller to remove pinion bearing, 2 jaw puller (that fits) for removing diff side bearings, calipers to measure shims, lots of shims, spare crush sleeve or two if this is the first time you've set up a crush sleeve pinion, tube of prussian blue for gear patterning,

If you don't plan to do more than one or two in your life, you would probably be better off paying someone who does a lot of them to do it. Of course, if you just want to do it, and don't care how much the tools cost you, or how long it takes, go for it. Makes life more interesting.

I answered this question a while back, in more detail, you might search for that thread.

This is the onlt vehicle I plan on doing this with RIGHT NOW, but i'm only 20 years old, lots more vehicles will pass through my hands i'm sure, and I like having the tools, but I do hear their kinda costly.

I do already have all the basic tools and I have large and small 3 and 2 jaw pullers, and I have calipers, but I will most likely borrow a digital read out caliper to get a more accurate reading. I will need a dial torque wrench, only have one of those with a twisty handle that click, other than that I have everything BUT the more specialty tools, those are the ones I need to know what I need, i'll probably have a buddy press on new carrier bearings for me.

But, if I decided to have it done, what is an average cost to have the differentials setup? I have to do this front and rear, so its going to cost double what one differential setup costs, might be less to buy the couple tools I need!

[784X4GUY]

If you do it or have it done, please tell me how much it costs you or how hard it was. Good luck with it man...Later Mike

[4x4Poet]

The cheapest I've found for labor alone is $175 with the axle housing off the vehicle (or 3rd member carrier). $225 for on the vehicle. I'm thinking of doing this with my K10. Both diffs need new bearings and set up with shims. But I'm skeered.

To stave off my fears, I'm looking into whether set-up bearings are available for my K10's 12-bolt and D44. My understanding of set-up bearings is that they have a little larger inside diameter than regular bearings, so they slip on the pinion without a press just to use to set-up the number of shims needed to set the pinion depth. This way you don't risk damaging the bearings that will be installed while setting everything up. I need to querry West Coast Differentials and Randy's Ring & Pinion, among other sources.

I have access to a press & all the tools so I'll save costs there. I also want to dive in so I can do it from now on. I may put a few more diffs under my belt in the next year or two. I just need to get over my apprehensions. Hopefully, my mechanical skills will pull me through.

[Destructo]

4x4Poet- I went through some apprehensions when I did my 700r4, but I saved a bundle of money and it works great! So, my view is that if I can rebuild a automatic tranny, I should have the preciseness and patience to do gears.

[1FaastC10]

find a set of 3/4 tons, and swap em in. save yourself a boatload of money.

[Erl]

Destructo I like your attitude.
I just swaped gears in my Dana 60 and am getting ready to do the Dana44 up front. Everything that has been said about the level of difficulty is true, but if you want to learn you must give it a try. First thing get a GM Axle Overhaul Manual. You can find one with a Google search or Ebay. This Manual will show all the special tools and techniques that are required. You will need a 10 ton press, pullers and a differential spreader for the Dana 44. I built my spreader, the manual will show a picture. Also you will need a base mount dial indicator. Oh, figure on a week or so part-time to get it done. I have put about 1000 miles on mine and have had no problems.

[Destructo]

I have a reliable daily driver, so downtime isn't of much concern, I may wait till after winter is over though cause if it snows I need to drive it to work or whereever.

[LONGHAIR]

I'm certainly not trying to sound elite-ist or that it can't be done. But this is a very involved process. Lots of pressing on/off, shimming, in and out several times are required.

You realy don't need a dial caliper....you need a dial indicator. The caliper may help in shim selection, but not "required". Most of the shim kits available have the thickness etched on them.
Don't use prussian blue, it dries like ink or paint, and is not what you need for this application. You need gear marking compound. It's more like a stiff grease/paste. It is yellow/gold and shows against the dark gears well. Since it doesn't dry, it smears onto the following teeth and shows you where the transfer goes. It gives a far better vision of your pattern.

I have done hundreds of gear swaps and I would still recommend paying someone to do it for you. For a one-time deal, it's just not worth the trouble.
I have always charged more for front axles than rear, but in or out of the vehicle doesn't matter. The advantages and disadvantages kinda equal things out there.