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01-26-2005, 03:34 PM
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#1 |
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It followed me home?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
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Re-use hardware?
I will be putting my rear lift springs on next weekend and was wondering if I should re-use the bolts. Do I just go to Home Depot and buy some grade 8 or what?
Might be a dumb question but I jsut wanted to make sure I have everything i need before I do the swap. thanks
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Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually |
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01-26-2005, 03:51 PM
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#2 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: southern pa
Posts: 698
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They are U bolts new lift kit should include them. If not inspect your ols ones for any major rust or ware spots. If they look even a little suspect just hit the local napa auto parts and pick up some new ones.
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01-26-2005, 03:57 PM
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#3 | |
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It followed me home?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
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Quote:
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Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually |
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01-26-2005, 03:59 PM
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,492
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I don't think you will find the correct size for the springs at Home Depot either. I had to get mine at a local spring shop. If you are in the rust belt like me, you might want to get new bolts/nuts for the springs beforehand.
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01-26-2005, 05:28 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
Posts: 1,421
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I got some correct grade-8 spring bolts at a local machine shop, $3 now will save a whole lot of trouble later.
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01-26-2005, 06:24 PM
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#6 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,399
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9/16 x 4 1/2". repleace em.
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01-26-2005, 08:32 PM
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#7 |
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user # 2756
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Replace them and buy extras, you never know. I'm going to replace my rear springs this weekend, too. I was thinking of removing the sleeve out of the bushings and getting bigger bolts. They'd be like 5/8" in diameter bolts by 4.5". Of course the hole would have to be drilled out.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm 
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01-27-2005, 12:26 AM
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#8 |
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Majician
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In the Middle
Posts: 329
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Mine looked ok when I had them out so I reused them. I put a bunch of grease on them before I put them back in.
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01-27-2005, 01:28 AM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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If the springeye and shackle bolts never had metal-to-metal contact occur from worn bushings or loose bolts, then your main risks will probably be shank rust & the threads. Wire wheel or wire "toothbrush" the bolt threads and then apply penetrating oil all before you yank 'em. After they're out, look for rust pits and wear spots along the shank. Wear spots & severe pits require replacement. Just minor pits can be wire wheeled and painted. But bolts are cheap. (Did you notice the CYA move there at the end?
 ) BTW, OffRoadDesign.com offers greaseable spring pins and shackles for 67-72s.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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