65' for sale by me... need advice...? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

fishmunger · 02-04-2005, 07:05 PM

there is a 65 c10 small window longbed for sale that i checked out yesterday. It has been updated to a 75' front suspension, it has an all original 76' corvette 350 with headers and glasspack mufflers. it has a turbo 350 tranny out of a 73 blazer and a posi rearend out of an 80s camaro. It has 4 wheel power disc brakes. it has power steering. it has a tilt column. it has cadillac bucket seats and the driver seat is power. it has a new windshield and weatherstripping. it has a gas tank where the spare tire used to be. All the gauges/lights, etc work as they should. The wiring harness has been updated to the new style common in the 80's trucks, so it takes normal fuses.

Now on to the bad stuff...
it will need all new weatherstripping, door hinges (they sag horribly), it is spraypainted primer and it has a lot of small dents. nothing major but a lot of little ones. the rocker panels are rusted out, and it has rust around the drip rail. it has some bondo in a few places, and the wood bed is rotted out. there are a few dings in the cab, and the rear bed fenderwells are really dinged up and will need to be replaced. it is missing the headlight bezels, but has headlights. the grille and bumper are also painted flat black. it is a super fast truck that hooks up really good and can stop on a dime, but i am kinda worried about how the rear end was installed. it is kinda greasy and grimy back there, and then in one spot there was a fresh weld, which makes it seem like maybe it was cracking?

I would like some advice on what to look for in the rear end to tell if it was installed right and any other advice. i dont know how to post pics, but if anyone can help me, i have pics on my email i can forward to you, although they dont show a lot of the stuff that you have to be close to see.

He wants $6500. seems a little high to me?

thanks for the help.

Piper71c10 · 02-04-2005, 09:27 PM

it's entirely up to you on something like that, but for $6500, you could buy an old farm truck and do all of those upgrades yourself.

I put $400 down on my longbed last fall, and another $600 in wheels/tires. I'm upgrading all the suspension, and will rebuild a hot l6 engine for it, and probably be into it for about 5k...

Piper

bpmcgee · 02-05-2005, 03:32 AM

Fish,

Let me preface by saying that I'm pretty picky about stuff. In my experience, when I've bought a truck that someone customized, I almost invariably have found faults with it serious enough to have to redo it. This has led me to a philosophy of spending the least amount of money I can to get an ORIGINAL truck in reasonably clean shape.

I don't mean to say that what he did was bad -- only that my mind reels at all the potential conflicts between the patchwork quilt of components he has there. Any employee at a parts store would cross his eyes the first time you walked in and try to answer his first question "Make and model?"

In any case, good luck!

Brian

fishmunger · 02-05-2005, 11:37 AM

that's how i am too. i am really picky, and if find something that's not quite right, it will eat at me forever. if i do decide to make an offer on his truck, how much would be a good price to offer?

bpmcgee · 02-05-2005, 01:00 PM

If it were me? I'd never be able to come to an agreement with this seller. All those modifications that he would consider assets I'd consider liabilities. I'd subtract from his starting price all the costs associated with setting things back to right and I'd end up with an offer of maybe $500

Obviously he's ADDING to the base price all the costs of putting those things IN the truck, and he'd be thinking of about $6,000.

Seriously, though. The NADA value for "Low Retail" on this truck would be $5,000. Sounds like, though, even if you ignore what he did, it's worth maybe half that at most. If it still would need bodywork and paint, I wouldn't go over $1,000 on any truck, because you can figure at least $3,000 for good body and paintwork.

As an example, I just bought my '60 long step. It looks pretty nasty, being about 4 colors. But the sheetmetal is mostly salvageable, it has reasonable miles on it, and it's mechanically untouched. And, since I only spent $600, I can afford to do all the rebuilding stuff that it needs.

Good luck,

Brian

ol'beast · 02-10-2005, 08:51 PM

I first bought my 65 pickup for $1800 and have since bought and parted out a 65 4X4 only to use the frame and driveline under the c-10. I basically broke even on the 4x4 upgrade and still have a lot of work to do. No truck that needs as much work as you described is worth $6500. I wouldn't pay more than $2000 if the truck has all the rust/cancer that needs to be cut out. Just wait and the right deal will fall into your lap.

02-04-2005, 07:05 PM	#1
fishmunger Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 411	65' for sale by me... need advice...? there is a 65 c10 small window longbed for sale that i checked out yesterday. It has been updated to a 75' front suspension, it has an all original 76' corvette 350 with headers and glasspack mufflers. it has a turbo 350 tranny out of a 73 blazer and a posi rearend out of an 80s camaro. It has 4 wheel power disc brakes. it has power steering. it has a tilt column. it has cadillac bucket seats and the driver seat is power. it has a new windshield and weatherstripping. it has a gas tank where the spare tire used to be. All the gauges/lights, etc work as they should. The wiring harness has been updated to the new style common in the 80's trucks, so it takes normal fuses. Now on to the bad stuff... it will need all new weatherstripping, door hinges (they sag horribly), it is spraypainted primer and it has a lot of small dents. nothing major but a lot of little ones. the rocker panels are rusted out, and it has rust around the drip rail. it has some bondo in a few places, and the wood bed is rotted out. there are a few dings in the cab, and the rear bed fenderwells are really dinged up and will need to be replaced. it is missing the headlight bezels, but has headlights. the grille and bumper are also painted flat black. it is a super fast truck that hooks up really good and can stop on a dime, but i am kinda worried about how the rear end was installed. it is kinda greasy and grimy back there, and then in one spot there was a fresh weld, which makes it seem like maybe it was cracking? I would like some advice on what to look for in the rear end to tell if it was installed right and any other advice. i dont know how to post pics, but if anyone can help me, i have pics on my email i can forward to you, although they dont show a lot of the stuff that you have to be close to see. He wants $6500. seems a little high to me? thanks for the help.

02-10-2005, 08:51 PM	#6
ol'beast Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 3	I agree with Brian I first bought my 65 pickup for $1800 and have since bought and parted out a 65 4X4 only to use the frame and driveline under the c-10. I basically broke even on the 4x4 upgrade and still have a lot of work to do. No truck that needs as much work as you described is worth $6500. I wouldn't pay more than $2000 if the truck has all the rust/cancer that needs to be cut out. Just wait and the right deal will fall into your lap.

02-04-2005, 09:27 PM	#2
Piper71c10 Unending Project Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Sequim, WA Posts: 337	it's entirely up to you on something like that, but for $6500, you could buy an old farm truck and do all of those upgrades yourself. I put $400 down on my longbed last fall, and another $600 in wheels/tires. I'm upgrading all the suspension, and will rebuild a hot l6 engine for it, and probably be into it for about 5k... Piper

02-05-2005, 03:32 AM	#3
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	Fish, Let me preface by saying that I'm pretty picky about stuff. In my experience, when I've bought a truck that someone customized, I almost invariably have found faults with it serious enough to have to redo it. This has led me to a philosophy of spending the least amount of money I can to get an ORIGINAL truck in reasonably clean shape. I don't mean to say that what he did was bad -- only that my mind reels at all the potential conflicts between the patchwork quilt of components he has there. Any employee at a parts store would cross his eyes the first time you walked in and try to answer his first question "Make and model?" In any case, good luck! Brian

02-05-2005, 11:37 AM	#4
fishmunger Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 411	that's how i am too. i am really picky, and if find something that's not quite right, it will eat at me forever. if i do decide to make an offer on his truck, how much would be a good price to offer?

02-05-2005, 01:00 PM	#5
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	If it were me? I'd never be able to come to an agreement with this seller. All those modifications that he would consider assets I'd consider liabilities. I'd subtract from his starting price all the costs associated with setting things back to right and I'd end up with an offer of maybe $500 Obviously he's ADDING to the base price all the costs of putting those things IN the truck, and he'd be thinking of about $6,000. Seriously, though. The NADA value for "Low Retail" on this truck would be $5,000. Sounds like, though, even if you ignore what he did, it's worth maybe half that at most. If it still would need bodywork and paint, I wouldn't go over $1,000 on any truck, because you can figure at least $3,000 for good body and paintwork. As an example, I just bought my '60 long step. It looks pretty nasty, being about 4 colors. But the sheetmetal is mostly salvageable, it has reasonable miles on it, and it's mechanically untouched. And, since I only spent $600, I can afford to do all the rebuilding stuff that it needs. Good luck, Brian



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