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Old 02-28-2005, 09:41 PM   #1
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sway bar

picked up a sway bar from the wreckers today, but i couldn't ge tthe frame brackets off cause the rivits. how have you got them off?

i got the sway bar off a 3/4 ton but ended up only being the 1 1/16 bar, i was hoping for the 1 1/4 but im still happy. i got the bar, new bushings, brackets, and new hardware for $80 canadian
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Old 02-28-2005, 10:27 PM   #2
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I recently added a sway bar to my 78 and love the results. The brackets on those are rivoted on. I know of 5 ways to get them off 1. torch easiest 2. drill 3. grinder 4 . chisel hardest. 5. sawsall. I like the grinder or torch method the best. I went down to the chevy dealer and bought new ones 16 dollars each .
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Old 03-01-2005, 12:09 AM   #3
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I bought mine at the dealer too. It wasn't worth spending an afternoon on my back laying in oil soaked dirt to save $20.

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Old 03-01-2005, 12:45 AM   #4
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i phoned gm today and they wanted $32 canadian each, not worth it for me

when torching them do u just heat them up and knock em out?
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Old 03-01-2005, 05:42 PM   #5
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I just took one off a 78 and it was bolted on 4 bolts a side?
It's 4 sale $60.00w/brackets
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Old 03-01-2005, 06:12 PM   #6
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Look at all the trucks in the junkyard before you start removing rivets. Some might have been added with bolts, like mine, or might have been replaced with a bolt-in after an accident.

If you get lucky, you can melt the heads off and hammer the rest through with a punch. If not, they will be like the rivets on my upper ball joints that each took about 20 minutes of hammering to push them through after the heads were ground off.

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Old 03-01-2005, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974gmc
i phoned gm today and they wanted $32 canadian each, not worth it for me

when torching them do u just heat them up and knock em out?
If you have access to a torch, I thought you might also have access to an air compressor. If you do...

On mine I used an air hammer (chisel), with a chisel tip to remove the head of the rivet and then used a punch tip on the air hammer to drive the rivet through. Worked pretty good.

Of course, if you are doing this at the bone-yard, you may not be able to hook up a compressor.

Just a thought.

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Old 03-01-2005, 10:13 PM   #8
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ya i guess i should have looked around at the other trucks to see if any were bolted in. thanks for the info!
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:37 AM   #9
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If your truck is lowered consider either the low profile ones the ECE sells, or don't run them at all....
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Old 03-02-2005, 02:07 AM   #10
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would it be possible to bolt the sway bar brackets directly to the frame without the frame bracket?
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Old 03-02-2005, 09:35 AM   #11
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Yes it is possible. If your truck is stock height it wouldn't be advisable due to the angle, but if it's lowered it will work just fine. I bought a set of the low profile stands from ECE for 20.00...
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
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would it be possible to bolt the sway bar brackets directly to the frame without the frame bracket?
Like N2TRUX said, it will work fine if the truck is lowered. My 74 & 68 both have sway bars w/o the factory brackets. The 68 has been on the road since 2000 & the 74 since summer 03, both w/o any sway bar related problems.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Yes it is possible. If your truck is stock height it wouldn't be advisable due to the angle, but if it's lowered it will work just fine. I bought a set of the low profile stands from ECE for 20.00...
I don't think his truck is lowered. Even if it is, that might not be a factor. It depends on how it was lowered. My truck is lowered using just drop spindles. That has no effect on the sway bar because the lower control arm does not change in relation to the frame. It only changes the angle if you use drop springs.

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Old 03-02-2005, 04:01 PM   #14
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no its nots lowered yet... one day it will be
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slonaker
..... My truck is lowered using just drop spindles. That has no effect on the sway bar because the lower control arm does not change in relation to the frame.
Good point. I was assuming if it were lowered that it would have dropped springs.

ok since you aren't lowered then you will need the factory stands....
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Old 03-02-2005, 09:15 PM   #16
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went back to the wrecker and found a 70-72 pickup with them bolted on and even better he gave em to me for free!
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:46 PM   #17
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....even better he gave em to me for free!
That's sums up my favorite philisohpical quote. Cheap is good, but free is better....
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:14 PM   #18
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i finished putting it in today and what a difference, a lot less body roll now!
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:28 PM   #19
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here it is finished:

click on thumbnails for bigger pics
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:50 PM   #20
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Looks good. Did you paint the bar too?
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Old 03-07-2005, 01:30 AM   #21
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ya just some plain black paint, stands out from the rest of the dirt under there.
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Old 03-07-2005, 02:47 AM   #22
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I am hopefuly in the market for a sway bar. what years will work on my truck and what size? 3/4, 1 ton? how much should I expect for a junk yard special? $50 to much?
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Old 03-07-2005, 12:56 PM   #23
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i think any year from early 70's to late 80's should work. i got the sway bar off a late 80's 3/4 silverado, and the frame brackets off a 70-72 1/2. i only paid $40 canadian for my bar so 50 is a bit much
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:42 PM   #24
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so a bar from a 1 ton would fit on a 1/2 ton? cause that would probly be the best.
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Old 03-07-2005, 06:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
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so a bar from a 1 ton would fit on a 1/2 ton? cause that would probly be the best.
Yes, and it would be thicker. I paid about $20 for my bar with the four pieces that hold the bushings. I was unable to find any trucks with bolt-on frame brackets (they go between the bushing and the frame, riveted in on trucks factory eqipped with swaybars), so I bought them from the dealer.

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