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Old 08-04-2002, 08:29 PM   #1
devinfife
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cheap lowering methods

ive got a half ton all coils. whats the cheapest way to lower it? should i take it to a suspension shop and cut the springs? i want an even 2 or 3 inch drop all around. one more thing.......will anything have to be replaced or upgraded? like the steering column? thanx for the help.
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Old 08-04-2002, 10:30 PM   #2
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A suspention shop is not going to cut your coils, you can't cut the rears anyway becuse of there special windings at both ends. You cheapest way is to get shorter springs. the steering colume will stay the same, lowering it will not have an affect
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Old 08-04-2002, 10:33 PM   #3
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Just cut blocks and set them under the frame for how low you want it. Then heat up the coils until they drop onto the blocks. That is the absolute cheapest and easiest way to do it.
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Old 08-05-2002, 12:01 AM   #4
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well I think the best way to do it is the right way spend around 200.00 to 300.00 and do it with new springs all the way around. I did the heating the spring thing did not like the ride. So I went on line to justcoilsprings.com and order new springs I went with a 3 -4 drop and mine set's even on all four corners. I would do it right and be done with it but thats just my 2 cents B.
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Old 08-05-2002, 04:29 PM   #5
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Dropped coils cost about $240/pair up here in Canada, so I cut one full ring off my fronts with a hacksaw and dropped it almost exactly 2". Can't cut the rears and I would mess with heating them, so I guess I'll bite the bullet and buy new dropped rears.

I've also heard of guys using rear coils from cars such as Chevelles, Elcaminos, etc. but have never seen this in person.

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Old 08-05-2002, 09:51 PM   #6
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Have you checked out Scott's Super Trucks in Penhold Alberta?
Front coils are only $195, and rears are $220 canadian. I will be ordering front 3" drop coils and 5" rear drop coils soon.

http://www.scottssupertrucks.com/
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Old 08-07-2002, 04:36 PM   #7
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on the rear just cut 2 pieces of square tubing and drill 2 hole through em fro the the u bolts. then take you original ubolt down to any kind of spring shop and tell u want em like this but them longer. i found the square tubing and it cost $14 US for the new u bolts nuts and washers. a $14 2.5'' drop
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Old 08-11-2002, 12:45 AM   #8
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ok, who here has done the heating method?? i have heard one good review on heating them from a local guy, if i get a couple more opinions, im gonna go crank up the torch
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Old 08-11-2002, 02:36 AM   #9
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Anyone who recommends you heat a coil spring is an idiot! This is dangerous, and will provide a poor ride. When you heat a coil spring, it affects the tamper rating of the steel/content. Here is a picture of a heated spring removed from an 83' C10.


http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/s...threadid=11148
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Old 08-11-2002, 01:49 PM   #10
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dang dang dang, i am lazy, and i dont want to take apart my front end to cut the springs!!!!
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Old 08-11-2002, 03:55 PM   #11
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I would not recommend cutting the factory coil springs either. Not a good idea.............!!!
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Old 08-11-2002, 09:22 PM   #12
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Okay, I had heated springs for awhile and had absolutely no problems with them. None whatsoever! I had a great ride to boot! I had a guy heat them and he did it the proper way and got a 3" drop all around. I rode on them for about 2 years before I got discs, front coils and a sweet price on rear coils.
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Old 08-12-2002, 12:18 AM   #13
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whats the proper way?? like heating the bottom, or top area, or the whole thing, or one spot?? any advice is appreciated, Ben
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Old 08-12-2002, 03:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Benrs86
whats the proper way?? like heating the bottom, or top area, or the whole thing, or one spot?? any advice is appreciated, Ben


Not to be rude, but this is dangerous! There will always be those who have good luck, but for the most part---Not many do. Plus, why would you want to risk getting in an accident? You are putting your life, and many others at risk. (Family, friends, and other innocent people.) Just trying to stop you from making a possible huge mistake, by not doing it the correct way. Which would be new lowered coil springs designed for your truck.


P.S.-You saw that picture! That is not an extreme heat job either!
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Old 08-12-2002, 11:46 AM   #15
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Arrow

Benr86, I didn't do it, but I watched the guy and it appeared that he just took the torch around a 5" height of spring and once it got warm he concentrated the torch on a smaller area, say 2"-3"-this is vertically. He kept moving the torch though, and didn't let it rest for to long in one place. I don't know what kind of tip he used, you'd have to talk to someone who knows torches. Also, I stood at the corner he was working on and held up a yardstick to tell him when to stop. (Keep in mind the truck will continue to drop a couple eighths, once torch is pulled away.) He did it to all four corners and I let the truck sit for about an hour afterward to let the springs cool and not drop unevenly while driving. Make sure this is done on a level concrete driveway too.

This guy had torched springs many times and had no problems. The roads in Portland are terrible and the spring had many oppurtunities to break due to potholes and didn't. I guess I'm one of the "lucky ones."
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Old 08-12-2002, 12:31 PM   #16
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The best way is to use a small drop with springs and then also use blocks in the back and drop spindles in the front.


But I have lowered our trucks using 2 inch blocks in the rear of a coil spring truck with longer U bolts and I cut 1 coil out of the front.
The lowering block will fit between the trailing arms and the rear axle. It will make the arms sit 2 inches lower but with it the spring and all drop with it and lower the truck.
The nice thing is the ride dosent change at all!

If you cut the coil right it should look like where it starts and ends are in a strait line (the part that is cut off that is).
That will give you a 2 inch drop in the front and it will still ride good.

I used a set of 2 inch lowering blocks with 10 inch U bolts in the rear.
I had to do a little grinding at the edges of the holes to fit the new U bolts as they where just a tad smaller than the original ones.
But they are grade 8 U bolts so Im not worried about them comming apart and they fit fine over the axle tube itself.

BTW all this cost me to lower this truck was 30.00 US $ and about 3 hours of my time.
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Old 08-12-2002, 12:43 PM   #17
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BTW here is a pic of the truck I was talking about before it was lowered.
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Old 08-12-2002, 12:45 PM   #18
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Now here is a pic of the same truck with 1 coil cut out of the front springs and a set of 2 inch blocks on the rear.
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