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08-02-2005, 12:22 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: ashland, ky
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carb problems on 2nd start
ok here is my prob:
i have a brand new rebuilt quadrajet(3609) on a 350. the first time i start the truck, it starts fine. when i try to start it a 2nd time if it has only been a few minutes it won't start without someone manually holding the flaps on the carb open. trying to start it without touching the pedal does not work nor does trying to start it while holding the pedal to the floor. i have adjusted the air/fuel mixture screws properly. is there something i have missed for the choke that would be causeing this? for what i can see there is no place to plug a vacum hose to the choke from the manifold... help please. i am new to carbs so i am lost... thanks, chris Last edited by hobbz; 08-02-2005 at 01:58 PM. |
08-02-2005, 10:10 PM | #2 |
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anyone?
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08-02-2005, 10:44 PM | #3 |
ureckmefixit2@cox.net
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I think that carb and manifold are not matched. Meaning that on that carb the choke should be bolted to the intake with linkage going to the carb. You might have to wire the choke open/ unless some one knows a better way and will post it. Matt
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That's U RECK ME FIX it 2 74 Chevy Short Bed 355ci Sportsman II 64cc Angle Plug Crower Custom Grind .462in .486ex Dyno Test 422hp @ 5600 And it's got a Holley 3.73 Gears 12 Bolt 3.73 w/Posi 700R4 Going In I'm a Body Man So There! That's why it's not painted |
08-02-2005, 11:01 PM | #4 |
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is it supposed to be a maunal choke and i have a cable running into the cab maybe? i am truly lost, i was gonna call tech support tomorrow if i can't figure it out by then....
another thing. some chokes have a vacuum tube going from the the intake mani to the carb, is that what the plug is for there in the middle of the choke? |
08-02-2005, 11:51 PM | #5 |
california fill
Join Date: Apr 2004
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well its definately missing something. there is no bi-metal spring to move the choke.. thats the little coil that heats up and expands to move the choke flap accordingly.... it should be mounted to the intake but you appear to have an EGR intake (blocked off) and thats right around where the bi-metal spring (a little box) bolts to.. either convert to a NON "divorced" choke, like lets say.... convert to electric choke, or manual, or just wire the choke open for now (or forever?).....
hope this helps pc |
08-03-2005, 12:08 AM | #6 |
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this might be a stupid question but what do i have to do to wire it open???
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08-03-2005, 04:37 AM | #7 |
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Your manifold is set up for a "Hot Air Choke" but you do not have the choke tubes installed.
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08-03-2005, 04:38 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
also, in my pic is the choke open or closed? thanks Last edited by hobbz; 08-03-2005 at 06:12 AM. |
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08-03-2005, 09:41 AM | #9 |
"The dude abides"
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Location: North Dakota
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What year is this? It could be a divorced style choke as well. Or the one with the tubes that stick down into the intake. (Which the intake appears to be like that)
If you look right below and off to the side a bit of the choke pull off (that diaphram at the front of the carb) you will see that plate in the intake. Under this plate is hot exhaust gas. This gas is what heats up a bi-metallic spring which when heated twists and then opens the choke. On my truck (1982) I have the divorced style. There is a plate that bolts to the intake where the above mentioned exhaust gas is. This plate raises and also levels a nice spot where my bi-metallic spring sits. There is a linkage that connects the spring and the choke together. When the spring is cold, it twists, pulls the linkage down, and closes the choke. When it warms up, it twists the other way, raises the linkage, and opens the choke. Want the easy fix? Put a manual choke on it. I am thinking about doing this to my truck anyways. The divorced style choke sucks in the winter time with the aluminum intake. It actually cools off too much causing the choke to close on me again. Especially going down the highway. All you need is the kit that you can pick up at any auto parts store. It consists of a long cable and a couple small brackets. You mount the brackets to the intake, connect one end of the cable to the choke lever, run the cable in the truck, mount it in the truck, and you are done. Pull the cable, you have choke. Push the cable, you have no choke. It takes some getting use to if you have never used a manual choke before, but eventually you don't even notice that you are doing it anymore.
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RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal |
08-03-2005, 09:47 AM | #10 |
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PS Can't tell by the pic if the choke is open or closed. If you remove the air cleaner and look at the choke plate then you could tell.
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RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal |
08-03-2005, 12:10 PM | #11 |
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thanks rockman, i had actually went to the parts store(autozone) a few minutes ago to check on the price for the manual choke conversion. i think for 9.98 it will be well worth it.
thanks |
08-03-2005, 02:20 PM | #12 |
"The dude abides"
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Yea they are cheap. People just don't like to mess around with a choke. You will be amazed at when you need the choke and when you don't. Like I said, it will take some getting use to.
I have a manual choke on my Cutlass. I would never guess that at 70 degrees I would need a choke, but you do need to choke it a little to get it started.
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RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal |
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