4 link finally

[AirMale]

I've grown tired of leafs and I'm gonna try to hook this mutha up! Wish me luck.

[love it loud]

pretty sure there's an obvious answer to this, and i'll probably feel dumb for asking.. but how exactly do you get the axle inside that hole? cut it open and weld back together? why are you going with this one over any other 4-link setup? (art, suicidedoors, kp components, etc..) also, care to comment on price?

[bagged_gmc]

I don't believe he's using that 4link for airbags, and to get the axle tube in the hole take out everything down to the axles and slide er on if it's a good fit if not then get ready to FABRICATE!

[Captkaos]

he is going with this setup to plant the tires. The others you listed are for bag systems with a fixed location. the adjustability at the front allows the tuning/manipulation of instant center (plus a few other things) allowing the tires to be planted harder/softer depending on what makes the best launch.

Good Luck!

[AirMale]

I'm gonna fab a crossmember that will bolt up to the hanger holes. The axle brackets get cut at the skinny part and welded to the tube. I'm c-notching and running a coil-over crossmember and will probably get some decent single adjustables. Everything is poly-bushed, even the diagonal link and coil overs so it should be somewhat forgiving on the street.

[dwcsr]

If you didn't already buy it don't thats not a street suspension. it will drive you crazy setting it up for the road. If you don't know or have someone that knows how to set it up you may find your rear end trying to out drive your front end on corners.

You would really like a 4 BAR better for street or even a trianglated 4 BAR. 4 links don't work all that well for street where you don't need to make constant adjustments to you suspension.

The proper way you get the axle tube in the hole is to cut off the axle housing ends and have them rewelded on. cutting that bracket in half will totaly screw up the geometry and strength of the suspension bracket if you don't get it exact.

below is the suspension you should use for a street truck you can use either air or coil overs

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

If you didn't already buy it don't thats not a street suspension. it will drive you crazy setting it up for the road. If you don't know or have someone that knows how to set it up you may find your rear end trying to out drive your front end on corners.

You would really like a 4 BAR better for street or even a trianglated 4 BAR. 4 links don't work all that well for street where you don't need to make constant adjustments to you suspension.

The proper way you get the axle tube in the hole is to cut off the axle housing ends and have them rewelded on. cutting that bracket in half will totaly screw up the geometry and strength of the suspension bracket if you don't get it exact.

below is the suspension you should use for a street truck you can use either air or coil overs

I'll go out on a limb here & say you don't know AirMale very well (I mean don't read his posts much).

He doesn't need the 4-bar set-up (triangulated or not). He's not bagging this truck . . .... he has 540ci of motor that he's trying to attempt to plant. That 4-link w/help alot. The rod ends are bigger than a '4-bar' (stronger/able to handle more shock or load) & much more adjustable since he can raise or lower the front of the bars to change his instant center for more/less bite depending on track (or road) conditions. He'll also have more adjustability w/the coil overs.

As far as installation goes, he actually won't cut the bracket in half. He can simply notch the bracket enough to fit it around the axle tube & then weld the remaining bracket & the removed piece back together to the axle tube. This will provide 360° of weld penetration w/o having to cut the housing ends off.

Of course, if you don't have axle housing ends on, it is easier to slip the brackets on first . Cutting the brackets is better than cutting the housing ends off unless you have a jig/fixture to weld the ends back on. Most back yard enthusiasts don't have a jig so it's alot easier to notch the brackets for clearance. Depending on how short the housing is, you might have to 'notch'/clearance the brackets anyway..... especially on a 9" housing.

Peace.

[AirMale]

Thanks for the confidence. I will post pics of the process and all welds so you may critique them.
here's more info:
PRO STREET 4-LINK, 3X2" MOUNT
Price $ 396.00
Our popular Pro Street 4-link uses the same bracket geometry as our Battle Cruiser 4-link. Instead of spherical-bearing rod ends, it uses billet-steel rod ends with urethane bushing liners. In addition, one end of the link tube uses a urethane-lined weld eye, which virtually eliminates the possibility of the rod end rattling, causing the link bar to fall off. The bars are direct-thread, 1-1/4x.156" tube to accommodate the huge 1"-shank billet rod end. These rod ends are strong enough for blown street cars and offer plenty of flexibility for a street-driven vehicle. Pro Street 4-links are available with blue-powder coating or chrome-finish link bars. The 4-link front mount attaches to a 3x2" dropped crossmember and is used in trucks and full-frame stock vehicles. All hardware and billet rod ends are included.

[dwcsr]

I haven't seen posts from Airmale before so I don't know his experince. I don't mean to dought his talents.

I would spend the $150 bucks to have the housing ends cut off and re-welded on after your done welding the brackets. You won't believe how much the housing will warp during the bracket welding and you will very likely have alignment problems when locating the rear. I didn't believe it until the rear guy I use showed me the before and after on my rear. One tube was a full 1/2 inch forward and the other was 3/8 rearward after the welding. They can fix that when re-welding the ends back on so the axle flanges are square to the ring.

Post some pics when your done.

[ed455]

If you take your time and weld 1/2" at a time letting the tube cool some, there won't be a problem. I have welded MANY, MANY, MANY 4-link. and ladder bar, and wheelie bar brackets to axle tubes without anything near the problems you describe. And yes, I always check the alignment after welding.

[71Dragtruck]

Here is mine, I'll take the tape measure challange any day, all is within less than 1/16". Although mine doesn't see much street time no complaints so far. My rear was done by notching and then welding peice back in, but yes the BEST way is to remove ends and have it done in a jig.