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09-05-2005, 02:26 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mexico
Posts: 92
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Longbed to shortbed conversion
Have you ever seen a thread to short a longbed (not the chassis, only the bed), since i am in Mexico it is so hard to find a good rust free shortbed but i have seen a lot of good and solid lonbeds (There was a period in 1995 where the Govern allow th Mexicans to import work trucks, most of these trucks were 67 -72 longbed trucks ), the guy in the junkyard is asking for 100 - 200 dlls.
Since this part is the only thing missing in my project i will go ahead and buy the long bed and try to findout the best way to cut anf weld. I will post photos. |
09-05-2005, 02:32 AM | #2 |
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Location: pleasanton, CA
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the earlyclassic website actually has instructions on how to do this, so i think it would be worth checking out
http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...20No!-Shortbed there ya go, and buena suerte...
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-Steve Last edited by llegos; 09-05-2005 at 02:32 AM. |
09-05-2005, 11:28 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hillsboro Oregon
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I cut some long bedsides down to short. 12" out in front of the wheelwells and 8" behind. Here's a link to the progress I'll have to take a shot looking down the side because it all lines up really well.
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09-05-2005, 12:29 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Panola County Texas
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There is also info in the FAQ
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09-05-2005, 01:23 PM | #5 |
72 BB C30 Super LongHorn
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chavez Ravine
Posts: 1,606
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I am liking this thread!
It appears to me that the front section of the bed was not discussed in the above link on the shortening of the bed sides! In time I suppose aftermarket(GoodMark?) side panels would be available to purchase and use as well as the metal floor pan! Almost seems easier to do in the near future! I have my 72 C/20 and thought about doing this! In the ECE website, they show a drop spindle already made to incorporate the 3/4 A-Arms and Ball Joint system into using a 5-lug rotor. I like the idea. I am guessing, as I have never compared the 1/2 to 3/4 ball joints if that they are bigger on the 3/4 ton suspension... If so , I see an even better stronger version of a ride and use with the 3/4 system. Time is on my side as I see it! I was going to off my C/20 but I am more and more leaning towards doing this for my the fun of having one again! I hate that California Smog Law situation immensely! Looks like my 84 1/2 is on the way out eventually!
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72 BB C/30 Longhorn Super HO72 No-Spin, #'s matching, Tilt, Tach, AC, AM/FM HO72 build : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714492 2017 SS |
09-07-2005, 01:40 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mexico
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Thanks to all, Llegos the post from EC is about shortening the chassis not the bed, anyway thanks, Mr Frizzle Fry, do you have the exact measures, where to place the markin tape, etc, etc, Did you have weld both sides of the bed?
Mr. GlennBrittain, do you have the link of the thread? |
09-07-2005, 03:57 PM | #7 |
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Location: Hillsboro Oregon
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The front 12" slices came out right next to the front stake pocket hole, and the rear 8" sections were taken out about and inch behind the wheel arches. I used a laser level set on vertical to ensure the tape marks were parallel. The cuts were made with an abrasive blade on an 8" circle saw so the inner and outer panels were cut together.
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09-10-2005, 04:14 PM | #8 |
Living In The Past
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Rockies
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http://totallypolished.com/projects/71.htm
see if that link will do you any good |
09-12-2005, 02:29 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mexico
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Thanks to all, i just have the longbed in my shop, i will post pics showing process
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09-12-2005, 11:42 AM | #10 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
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I'll have to chime in here as I would love to see some good pic's with measurement's..
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GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
09-12-2005, 12:42 PM | #11 |
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Location: Hillsboro Oregon
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Measurements
Is this what you’re looking for? The placement of the sections is not an exact science. Take the front one out anywhere between the wheel-well and the front stake-pocket. I recommend placing the rear section as far forward as possible because the bodyline just below the bedrail curves down more toward the rear. I matched that line up fairly easily with the section placed where indicated in the picture. I started my tack-welding with the bed-rail, then worked my way down with a little trimming here and there (very little).
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09-12-2005, 02:22 PM | #12 |
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Well, I didn't get that far and now I'm selling the truck... I was planning to convert to wood. The metal floor could be cut, but the supports would have to be considered as you mentioned. I think it would be hard to hide the seams in the floor too. If the supports were removed (lots of spot welds) then the floor could be trimmed 20" on one end (probably front) and have no seams. Then position the supports accordingly.
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09-12-2005, 02:52 PM | #13 |
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Location: Hillsboro Oregon
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Well, 20" is gonna have to come out of the floor. Where you take it out will be determined by where the supports are now vs. where they need to end up. Should be pretty easy to figure out. To answer the question, I don't know if the bed side cuts will align with the bed floor cuts. If they do line up you could just use one of these:
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