Jimmy question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

k-nuts · 03-12-2006, 08:29 PM

This maybe the start of many questions I will have as I start to restore the new Jimmy.
My front marker light is different than the rear marker light. And I have seen them both for sale in each style. Which is correct? Or are they supposed to be one of each stlyle.

Also I have read about a high or low trans hump. How do you tell? Mine is a 350/350 4x4.

I have started reviewing old posts and FAQs. I am trying to determine the correct things my truck has and what may not be correct. For instance on my car I restored there is a standard interior, and a deluxe interior. Mine was optioned with deluxe interior so it has a different seat upholstry and door panels and other little things versus the standard.

Hopefully pics will show up.

Thanks in advance.

teeitup · 03-12-2006, 08:33 PM

The chrome marker lights were on the CST models
All 4x4's are high hump, it bolts in where your transfer case shifter is

SLIMJIM · 03-12-2006, 08:34 PM

You would have a high hump in that truck becuase its four wheel drive. As far as the marker lights, the RPO sticker would tell you which is correct. The plain fronts would indicate a jimmy without the super custom truck option. The backs would indicate that it had that option. Your sticker in the glovebox should tell you.

Edit- Super Custom Truck is GMC's equivalent of Chevy's CST Package.

jcfoote60 · 03-12-2006, 08:38 PM

It all depends on the options your truck was ordered with. It is a little easier on Blazers to deterime levels of trim than on a Jimmy. For instance you can bet that a CST Blazer will come with the deluxe marker lights like you have on the rear, also AC (but not always), woodgrain moldings and trim, that sort of thing. If yours is a deluxe package I would stick with the deluxe markers. As far as your hump, looks like a high to me, I believe most 4 x 4s were high humps to accomodate the T-case. Unless you want to do a complete as-was restore, my suggestion is to fix your truck up the way you want it and what looks good to YOU. Hope that helps

JC

LUV2XCLR8 · 03-12-2006, 08:59 PM

I personally like the deluxe markers better anyway, I have em in clear

k-nuts · 03-12-2006, 09:54 PM

I am planning on doing a frame off. But not necessarily to show. Or definately NOT show only. I want to drive it too. I want to make it as correct as possible, but mainly correct parts, not necessarily the ones that it had off the line. I too like the deluxe marker lights. I was just wondering why mine had both? Probabaly replaced somewhere along the way. I don't think I have the deluxe package. Well, at least I don't think so. Here's the glove box sticker. I guess mainly I want to keep the stuff year correct. Like I've seen some differences in the GMC grilles with flat black areas, etc. Still lots of decisions to make. Just getting the game plan in order.

Couple more questions,
I have a small brake pedal. Every other automatic vehicle I've owned had a wider one. Also as seen in the pic below, there is a bracket under the dash for the additional clutch pedal. I guess they just made one set of pedals and added the clutch one if needed?

I was told on the board here that the 1970 wasn't disc up front standard. So Mine has disc up front, I assume was added later although looks original. Can anyone tell if the master cylinder/proportioning valve is then correct for power DISC?

Thanks again!

72 CustomCamper · 03-12-2006, 10:44 PM

Brake petal is the same size for standard trans or automatic...

Chuck

pound41 · 03-12-2006, 11:23 PM

I was the one that told you it originally had drums up front. I have the exact same blazer as your jimmy opts and color are the same Twins. It is hard to tell from the pic if your master cylinder and prop valve are correct. I lean towards not. When you got power brakes as it says on the sticker. All that meant was the brake booster. 1f that was just drum brakes not power assist the MC would have bolted right to the firewall. The old prop valve was really square looking and the master cylinder was smaller..The line coming to the prop valve on mine one of them was small so I had to get a reducer. On mine they just put a chevy disk front out of the 80's in it and left the prop valve MC all the same. Brakes were OK. But when I got my 71 blazer back in 81 you could lock all 4 wheels up. So I knew something wasn't right. I am going to the 3/4 ton booster and MC swap. Very popular they say it makes a big difference

k-nuts · 03-12-2006, 11:50 PM

Yeah, I'm still working on sizing the pics right to see them better on the board. The brakes seem really great. I mean like too good! When does that ever happen? Buy an old vehicle and it stops perfect. I realize the sticker says power brakes meaning the booster only. (not disc) The discs seem smaller than my other K5's '74, '75, '89, '90. But heck, I haven't even pulled the wheel off to check them. The disc conversion seems to have been done well, and a while back from looking at it.

ian villeza · 03-13-2006, 01:48 AM

The picture of the brake booster, Proportioning valve, and master cylinder look exactly like the ones on my 1972 Chevy Blazer. Mine did come equipped with discs up front.

pound41 · 03-13-2006, 07:59 AM

If they are working great then I wouldn't wory about it. Ian I took a closer look and I think its not based on my see how low down and straight towards the front the prop valve is all the 71/72 I have seen the valve sits higher up and more toward the fender because the mounting brackets of the 2 are different. Also look at the flat top on the prop valve. the 71/72 is similar in shape but it is rounded on its edges like a gun barrel.Also the 2 bowls on the MC look to be one small and 1 large. On mine they are = Again not a big deal if the brakes are good them leave it. Mine weren't and thats when I started looking.

jcfoote60 · 03-14-2006, 08:40 AM

By the looks of that wiring and fuse block, that would be another thing I'd put as a priority. I did a Painless Kit on my 72 truck and rewired everything front to back and I won't do another one without all fresh wiring. There is nothing worse than being back country, hitting a bump and your lights go out or try starting and no fire in the hole! For the $325.00 (Summit), it buys you piece of mind that your rig won't leave you stranded. They are easy to install, just follow the step by step directions. Oh and even the lights and everything are bright...like new. Can't say enough good things about my experience.

k-nuts · 03-14-2006, 09:17 PM

Everything you see will be like new one of these days. Yeah, that wiring is a little questionable in a few spots. But I am not wanting to start tearing it down until I have a good understanding of where everything is, goes, and what's right or wrong. I also am having to keep myself from replacing the little things. I am going to start from the inside and work my way out. I have taken around 70 pics so far and haven't even started dissassembly yet. Still getting quotes on mediablasting the body/frame.... Then I can really see if the truck is as solid as it has been so far

Definately going to put new wiring, maybe I'll need some advice when I get to that point...

jcfoote60 · 03-14-2006, 09:24 PM

Not critizing your wiring, just been there done that! looks just like all my trucks so far and dang if it doesn't suck being stuck in the middle of nowhere with no cell service!!! Anyway let me know if you need help..that is what the board is all about...insane and addicted dudes helping each other!

JC

k-nuts · 03-14-2006, 09:32 PM

O no problem. Wasn't meaning you were. I'm trying to post a lot of pics and stuff to learn as much as possible. I found out a lot of things AFTER restoring my car that I wished I'd had known earlier. I still restore them the way I want them, but want to keep it as original, or should I say as original looking as possible. Thats what I like about this site. For the most part looks like honest folks like me with great trucks and keeping it fun.

FRENCHBLUE72 · 03-18-2006, 11:19 AM

I agreee on the the painless kit worked really well for me,the funny thing is once you get out the old harness you really get to see what the previous owners iq was... Here a pic of my clear deluxe marker lights..

k-nuts · 03-19-2006, 01:55 PM

Yeah I think I'm going to definately go with the red and amber deluxe lights. Adds more to the truck IMO from the standard ones on there. Now I just need to decide to I tear it down to start the rebuild now or drive it a bit this summer and then do it......

red71cheyenne · 03-19-2006, 02:19 PM

Well, I can tell you that after owning my Blazer for 4 years and never getting to drive it, since I immediately went with the tear down, I wish I would have waited a little while. Would have also helped with knowing how well my rebuild affected the whole vehicle. I'd drive it for a little while, then go with the resto. JMHO, Jeff.

k-nuts · 03-19-2006, 11:48 PM

Thanks for your input Jeff, I've been hearing that from a few. When I restored my firebird I jumped right in. Now that it is "done" I'm putting a new engine, ball joints, tie rod end, body bushings, brakes, and other important stuff. Would've been easier to do all that when it was apart. I'm thinking the same thing you are gather a few more months of info (and some parts) and do this the right way once. Here in Texas there isn't really a "winter" to do restoring, you can drive all year long with the top off. Well maybe a few weeks would be a little chilly. But then again its hotter that hell trying to do too much work in the summer. Since I work outside all year its not too bad I guess.

Jimmy72custom · 03-20-2006, 12:15 AM

When I got my jimmy I put 10,000 miles on it before I took it apart. I got a good feel for what I wanted and what it needed. I did not restore it I renovated it. (made it the way I wanted it) Good to see more Jimmy's being brought back.

03-12-2006, 08:29 PM	#1
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Jimmy question This maybe the start of many questions I will have as I start to restore the new Jimmy. My front marker light is different than the rear marker light. And I have seen them both for sale in each style. Which is correct? Or are they supposed to be one of each stlyle. Also I have read about a high or low trans hump. How do you tell? Mine is a 350/350 4x4. I have started reviewing old posts and FAQs. I am trying to determine the correct things my truck has and what may not be correct. For instance on my car I restored there is a standard interior, and a deluxe interior. Mine was optioned with deluxe interior so it has a different seat upholstry and door panels and other little things versus the standard. Hopefully pics will show up. Thanks in advance. Attached Images

03-12-2006, 08:33 PM	#2
teeitup Just like to part out trucks!! Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Meriden, Ks-North of Topeka 10 miles Posts: 27,395	Re: Jimmy question The chrome marker lights were on the CST models All 4x4's are high hump, it bolts in where your transfer case shifter is __________________ 67 Chev swb stepside 4x4 283 4 speed SOLD 72 blazer 4x4 4 speed Cheyenne 72 GMC swb 4x4 fleet 4 speed, original paint 1958 Cameo (one of 1405 built, it was my dads) 2020 chevy Apex 4x4 crew cab 1969 Z28 with the 302 1980 chevy swb 4x4 1964 chevell Malibu SS 1976 K20, sold new originally out of my dads chevy dealership Members that I've met, over 200 probably closer to 300 in the 12 years I've been on this site, everyone I met "It was a pleasure" Last edited by teeitup; 03-12-2006 at 08:34 PM.

03-12-2006, 08:34 PM	#3
SLIMJIM Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Charleston, South Carolina Posts: 285	Re: Jimmy question You would have a high hump in that truck becuase its four wheel drive. As far as the marker lights, the RPO sticker would tell you which is correct. The plain fronts would indicate a jimmy without the super custom truck option. The backs would indicate that it had that option. Your sticker in the glovebox should tell you. Edit- Super Custom Truck is GMC's equivalent of Chevy's CST Package. __________________ 1970 Chevrolet Blazer 2 wheel drive - SOLD Last edited by SLIMJIM; 03-12-2006 at 08:37 PM.

03-12-2006, 08:38 PM	#4
jcfoote60 Active Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 263	Re: Jimmy question It all depends on the options your truck was ordered with. It is a little easier on Blazers to deterime levels of trim than on a Jimmy. For instance you can bet that a CST Blazer will come with the deluxe marker lights like you have on the rear, also AC (but not always), woodgrain moldings and trim, that sort of thing. If yours is a deluxe package I would stick with the deluxe markers. As far as your hump, looks like a high to me, I believe most 4 x 4s were high humps to accomodate the T-case. Unless you want to do a complete as-was restore, my suggestion is to fix your truck up the way you want it and what looks good to YOU. Hope that helps JC

03-12-2006, 08:59 PM	#5
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,468	Re: Jimmy question I personally like the deluxe markers better anyway, I have em in clear __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

03-12-2006, 09:54 PM	#6
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question I am planning on doing a frame off. But not necessarily to show. Or definately NOT show only. I want to drive it too. I want to make it as correct as possible, but mainly correct parts, not necessarily the ones that it had off the line. I too like the deluxe marker lights. I was just wondering why mine had both? Probabaly replaced somewhere along the way. I don't think I have the deluxe package. Well, at least I don't think so. Here's the glove box sticker. I guess mainly I want to keep the stuff year correct. Like I've seen some differences in the GMC grilles with flat black areas, etc. Still lots of decisions to make. Just getting the game plan in order. Couple more questions, I have a small brake pedal. Every other automatic vehicle I've owned had a wider one. Also as seen in the pic below, there is a bracket under the dash for the additional clutch pedal. I guess they just made one set of pedals and added the clutch one if needed? I was told on the board here that the 1970 wasn't disc up front standard. So Mine has disc up front, I assume was added later although looks original. Can anyone tell if the master cylinder/proportioning valve is then correct for power DISC? Thanks again! Attached Images

03-12-2006, 10:44 PM	#7
72 CustomCamper huh ??? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Fredericksburg,Va. Posts: 3,368	Re: Jimmy question Brake petal is the same size for standard trans or automatic... Chuck __________________ 90 Blazer Silverado 350w/ 700R4 and 32" Kelly's "I am a bomb technician. If you see me running try to keep up!"

03-12-2006, 11:23 PM	#8
pound41 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,268	Re: Jimmy question I was the one that told you it originally had drums up front. I have the exact same blazer as your jimmy opts and color are the same Twins. It is hard to tell from the pic if your master cylinder and prop valve are correct. I lean towards not. When you got power brakes as it says on the sticker. All that meant was the brake booster. 1f that was just drum brakes not power assist the MC would have bolted right to the firewall. The old prop valve was really square looking and the master cylinder was smaller..The line coming to the prop valve on mine one of them was small so I had to get a reducer. On mine they just put a chevy disk front out of the 80's in it and left the prop valve MC all the same. Brakes were OK. But when I got my 71 blazer back in 81 you could lock all 4 wheels up. So I knew something wasn't right. I am going to the 3/4 ton booster and MC swap. Very popular they say it makes a big difference

03-12-2006, 11:50 PM	#9
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question Yeah, I'm still working on sizing the pics right to see them better on the board. The brakes seem really great. I mean like too good! When does that ever happen? Buy an old vehicle and it stops perfect. I realize the sticker says power brakes meaning the booster only. (not disc) The discs seem smaller than my other K5's '74, '75, '89, '90. But heck, I haven't even pulled the wheel off to check them. The disc conversion seems to have been done well, and a while back from looking at it.

03-13-2006, 01:48 AM	#10
ian villeza Active Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hawaii Posts: 153	Re: Jimmy question The picture of the brake booster, Proportioning valve, and master cylinder look exactly like the ones on my 1972 Chevy Blazer. Mine did come equipped with discs up front.

03-13-2006, 07:59 AM	#11
pound41 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,268	Re: Jimmy question If they are working great then I wouldn't wory about it. Ian I took a closer look and I think its not based on my see how low down and straight towards the front the prop valve is all the 71/72 I have seen the valve sits higher up and more toward the fender because the mounting brackets of the 2 are different. Also look at the flat top on the prop valve. the 71/72 is similar in shape but it is rounded on its edges like a gun barrel.Also the 2 bowls on the MC look to be one small and 1 large. On mine they are = Again not a big deal if the brakes are good them leave it. Mine weren't and thats when I started looking.

03-14-2006, 08:40 AM	#12
jcfoote60 Active Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 263	Re: Jimmy question By the looks of that wiring and fuse block, that would be another thing I'd put as a priority. I did a Painless Kit on my 72 truck and rewired everything front to back and I won't do another one without all fresh wiring. There is nothing worse than being back country, hitting a bump and your lights go out or try starting and no fire in the hole! For the $325.00 (Summit), it buys you piece of mind that your rig won't leave you stranded. They are easy to install, just follow the step by step directions. Oh and even the lights and everything are bright...like new. Can't say enough good things about my experience.

03-14-2006, 09:17 PM	#13
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question Everything you see will be like new one of these days. Yeah, that wiring is a little questionable in a few spots. But I am not wanting to start tearing it down until I have a good understanding of where everything is, goes, and what's right or wrong. I also am having to keep myself from replacing the little things. I am going to start from the inside and work my way out. I have taken around 70 pics so far and haven't even started dissassembly yet. Still getting quotes on mediablasting the body/frame.... Then I can really see if the truck is as solid as it has been so far Definately going to put new wiring, maybe I'll need some advice when I get to that point... Last edited by k-nuts; 03-14-2006 at 09:19 PM.

03-14-2006, 09:24 PM	#14
jcfoote60 Active Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 263	Re: Jimmy question Not critizing your wiring, just been there done that! looks just like all my trucks so far and dang if it doesn't suck being stuck in the middle of nowhere with no cell service!!! Anyway let me know if you need help..that is what the board is all about...insane and addicted dudes helping each other! JC

03-14-2006, 09:32 PM	#15
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question O no problem. Wasn't meaning you were. I'm trying to post a lot of pics and stuff to learn as much as possible. I found out a lot of things AFTER restoring my car that I wished I'd had known earlier. I still restore them the way I want them, but want to keep it as original, or should I say as original looking as possible. Thats what I like about this site. For the most part looks like honest folks like me with great trucks and keeping it fun. Last edited by k-nuts; 03-14-2006 at 09:33 PM.



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03-18-2006, 11:19 AM	#16
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	Re: Jimmy question I agreee on the the painless kit worked really well for me,the funny thing is once you get out the old harness you really get to see what the previous owners iq was... Here a pic of my clear deluxe marker lights.. Attached Images __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

03-19-2006, 01:55 PM	#17
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question Yeah I think I'm going to definately go with the red and amber deluxe lights. Adds more to the truck IMO from the standard ones on there. Now I just need to decide to I tear it down to start the rebuild now or drive it a bit this summer and then do it......

03-19-2006, 02:19 PM	#18
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Jimmy question Well, I can tell you that after owning my Blazer for 4 years and never getting to drive it, since I immediately went with the tear down, I wish I would have waited a little while. Would have also helped with knowing how well my rebuild affected the whole vehicle. I'd drive it for a little while, then go with the resto. JMHO, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-19-2006, 11:48 PM	#19
k-nuts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX Posts: 252	Re: Jimmy question Thanks for your input Jeff, I've been hearing that from a few. When I restored my firebird I jumped right in. Now that it is "done" I'm putting a new engine, ball joints, tie rod end, body bushings, brakes, and other important stuff. Would've been easier to do all that when it was apart. I'm thinking the same thing you are gather a few more months of info (and some parts) and do this the right way once. Here in Texas there isn't really a "winter" to do restoring, you can drive all year long with the top off. Well maybe a few weeks would be a little chilly. But then again its hotter that hell trying to do too much work in the summer. Since I work outside all year its not too bad I guess.

03-20-2006, 12:15 AM	#20
Jimmy72custom Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Willits Ca Posts: 261	Re: Jimmy question When I got my jimmy I put 10,000 miles on it before I took it apart. I got a good feel for what I wanted and what it needed. I did not restore it I renovated it. (made it the way I wanted it) Good to see more Jimmy's being brought back.

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