Replacing trailer arm bushings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**ScottH** · 10-10-2002, 04:27 PM

Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to remove the trailing arms? Also what is the best replacement for the bushings, and how difficult are they to replace (backyard job or machine shop)?

Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

**1971Stepside** · 10-10-2002, 04:48 PM

It is not too bad of a job. Of course it is much easier when the truck is just a frame.

Anyway, I am at work so I can't go into step by step detail because of time, but here is the deal.

If you just want to replace your bushings here is what I would do. Put some good jack stands under the rear of the frame adn block the front tires. Remove one end of you panhard bar (I would remove the bolt to the frame). Loosen your top shock mount bolts and take the top bolts out of your springs (you may have to unload the springs first to get the bolt out). Now, disconnect the driveshaft from the rearend. That should free everything from the frame except where the trailering arms bolt up. I would loosen the two main bolts that hold them on and then slowly role the whole assembly back a few inches. Be careful the arms don't slam down on the ground and hit you.

OK, two ways to go. You can buy replacment bushings that require you to press the old metal sleeve out of the arms and replace or you can buy them that keep the outer sleeve and you just replace the rubber and inner steel. This is the method I would go with (as my instructions abouve allow for). Anyway, they suggest burning out the old rubber, but Lost Wages suggested I drill them out. It worked great. Get a bit and drill as many holes in the old rubber as possible and it will pretty much fall out. If not grab some channel locks and pull.

Clean it up and the new one slide in pretty easy.

I bought mine at Chevy Duty for like 17.00

Good luck and I hope this helps. If I missed something cover me guys as I am in a big hurry! Sorry, I have a big document due tomorrow and I like to spend my time on this board!!

photoglg · 10-10-2002, 05:40 PM

I agree with 1971Stepside, but I burned mine out. got the rubber hot and then drove the old rubber out.

Church · 10-11-2002, 07:38 AM

Hey Scott, I have got the polyurethane bushings for 16.00 plus shipping. You have to use the original outer shell with these.

**ScottH** · 10-11-2002, 09:57 AM

Many thanks for everyones suggestions on this. I forgot to mention that I will be taking the truck down to the frame, so everything will be disconnected.

If I understand this correctly, there are two steel rings, wth rubber inbetween them. By removing the rubber I will also remove the inner ring. The poly replacements will then replace the original rubber and inner ring, leaving the outer ring still in place in the trailing arm. Sound right ? How difficult is it to install the new poly pieces?

Thanks again guys. This site is great.

**1971Stepside** · 10-11-2002, 10:28 AM

You got it Scott. It is real easy to install the new pieces. I put the grease on them and pushed the poly in by hand then tapped the metal insert in with a hammer.

Again, drilling the old ones out was real easy as well. Just make sure your outer sleeves are in good shape.

**COBALT** · 10-11-2002, 04:04 PM

You guys didn't mention pulling the U-bolts, and dropping the axle out. You mean you just leave all that bolted together and roll the axle aft to get the arms to fall out?

I'm planning on tackling this tonight, but I thought I'd spring for new U-bolts for the rear axle. It might not be worth the trouble, though. If just leaving that all connected saves disconnecting the e-brake cables, etc. then I might go the route you're suggesting and screw the U-bolts until later.

If you are leaving it all together how do you set the springs back into place?

*Fast68Chevy* · 10-11-2002, 04:58 PM

would be better if you can rmeove arms U bolts at the axle tubes, would make it easier to repace bushings, the bolt that holds each arm at the crossmember at front most end of the arms is what they pivot on and once you take nut off and slide the bolt out the arm wil fall out of the bracket it pivots on with the bolt..
i have a set of new poly bushings here that i have no use for now.

good luck

**1971Stepside** · 10-11-2002, 05:09 PM

It would be better to remove rearend and u-bolts no doubt. Can it be done without doing this? Sure. I gave those directions based on him not having a bare frame, but it sounds like he does. If you are replacing the u-bolts do it now, but be prepared for 30 year old u-bolt nuts!! Those suckers were a pain for me.

Once you get the bolts back in the arms you would need to jack the rearend up a little to move it around to get the springs lined up.

**COBALT** · 10-11-2002, 05:36 PM

Yeah, I figured you just left that part out. After looking at it it just seemed logical to disassemble the whole thing. I'm thinking about cleaning/painting the trailing arms anyway.

I'm used to the 30-year-old bolt thing. My front end has never been apart. I had to use a 3' steel pipe along with my breaker bars (1/2" and 3/4"). Almost twisted my arms off my shoulders, but I got everything loose. I think I can handle some more. Just need to eat my wheaties...

Pics later!

**ScottH** · 10-14-2002, 10:10 AM

Fast68chevy, if interested in selling your poly bushings, let me know.

Thanks to everyone for some great info.

10-10-2002, 04:27 PM	#1
ScottH Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 8,192	Replacing trailer arm bushings Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to remove the trailing arms? Also what is the best replacement for the bushings, and how difficult are they to replace (backyard job or machine shop)? Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

10-10-2002, 04:48 PM	#2
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	It is not too bad of a job. Of course it is much easier when the truck is just a frame. Anyway, I am at work so I can't go into step by step detail because of time, but here is the deal. If you just want to replace your bushings here is what I would do. Put some good jack stands under the rear of the frame adn block the front tires. Remove one end of you panhard bar (I would remove the bolt to the frame). Loosen your top shock mount bolts and take the top bolts out of your springs (you may have to unload the springs first to get the bolt out). Now, disconnect the driveshaft from the rearend. That should free everything from the frame except where the trailering arms bolt up. I would loosen the two main bolts that hold them on and then slowly role the whole assembly back a few inches. Be careful the arms don't slam down on the ground and hit you. OK, two ways to go. You can buy replacment bushings that require you to press the old metal sleeve out of the arms and replace or you can buy them that keep the outer sleeve and you just replace the rubber and inner steel. This is the method I would go with (as my instructions abouve allow for). Anyway, they suggest burning out the old rubber, but Lost Wages suggested I drill them out. It worked great. Get a bit and drill as many holes in the old rubber as possible and it will pretty much fall out. If not grab some channel locks and pull. Clean it up and the new one slide in pretty easy. I bought mine at Chevy Duty for like 17.00 Good luck and I hope this helps. If I missed something cover me guys as I am in a big hurry! Sorry, I have a big document due tomorrow and I like to spend my time on this board!! __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-10-2002, 05:40 PM	#3
photoglg Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Oxnard, CA Posts: 143	I agree with 1971Stepside, but I burned mine out. got the rubber hot and then drove the old rubber out. __________________ 1969 GMC S/B S/S 3" drop

10-11-2002, 07:38 AM	#4
Church Carolina Classic Trucks Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The South Posts: 792	Hey Scott, I have got the polyurethane bushings for 16.00 plus shipping. You have to use the original outer shell with these. __________________

10-11-2002, 10:28 AM	#6
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	You got it Scott. It is real easy to install the new pieces. I put the grease on them and pushed the poly in by hand then tapped the metal insert in with a hammer. Again, drilling the old ones out was real easy as well. Just make sure your outer sleeves are in good shape. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-11-2002, 09:57 AM	#5
ScottH Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 8,192	Many thanks for everyones suggestions on this. I forgot to mention that I will be taking the truck down to the frame, so everything will be disconnected. If I understand this correctly, there are two steel rings, wth rubber inbetween them. By removing the rubber I will also remove the inner ring. The poly replacements will then replace the original rubber and inner ring, leaving the outer ring still in place in the trailing arm. Sound right ? How difficult is it to install the new poly pieces? Thanks again guys. This site is great.

10-11-2002, 04:04 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	You guys didn't mention pulling the U-bolts, and dropping the axle out. You mean you just leave all that bolted together and roll the axle aft to get the arms to fall out? I'm planning on tackling this tonight, but I thought I'd spring for new U-bolts for the rear axle. It might not be worth the trouble, though. If just leaving that all connected saves disconnecting the e-brake cables, etc. then I might go the route you're suggesting and screw the U-bolts until later. If you are leaving it all together how do you set the springs back into place? __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-11-2002, 04:58 PM	#8
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	would be better if you can rmeove arms U bolts at the axle tubes, would make it easier to repace bushings, the bolt that holds each arm at the crossmember at front most end of the arms is what they pivot on and once you take nut off and slide the bolt out the arm wil fall out of the bracket it pivots on with the bolt.. i have a set of new poly bushings here that i have no use for now. good luck

10-11-2002, 05:09 PM	#9
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	It would be better to remove rearend and u-bolts no doubt. Can it be done without doing this? Sure. I gave those directions based on him not having a bare frame, but it sounds like he does. If you are replacing the u-bolts do it now, but be prepared for 30 year old u-bolt nuts!! Those suckers were a pain for me. Once you get the bolts back in the arms you would need to jack the rearend up a little to move it around to get the springs lined up. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-11-2002, 05:36 PM	#10
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yeah, I figured you just left that part out. After looking at it it just seemed logical to disassemble the whole thing. I'm thinking about cleaning/painting the trailing arms anyway. I'm used to the 30-year-old bolt thing. My front end has never been apart. I had to use a 3' steel pipe along with my breaker bars (1/2" and 3/4"). Almost twisted my arms off my shoulders, but I got everything loose. I think I can handle some more. Just need to eat my wheaties... Pics later! __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-14-2002, 10:10 AM	#11
ScottH Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 8,192	Fast68chevy, if interested in selling your poly bushings, let me know. Thanks to everyone for some great info.



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