My Info:K/20 6" Lift

[special-K]

Just thought I`d share what you can expect when lifting a`72 K/20(or other longbeds,I imagine)6".I used TuffCountry EZ-Ride springs on all four corners and braided s/s hoses for 6-8" lifts from Skyjacker.I recommend you ship the Skyjacker hoses,unless you want some spare fittings and a female-female s/s hose laying around.If you can buy the fronts seperate,they`re ok.But,I`d price them from Inline Tube first.That is where I went for my rear hose.I asked for a 24" hose that has a 1/4" inlet to match the original line coming in,a T-block,ans s/s lines for the axle(T-block to wheel cyls.).This cost $100 w/shipping.Some guys use the drop brackets provided with the lift.But,I prefer going with new hoses made for this suspension.
The emergency cables are too short to even bolt the axle in place w/o disconnecting.I feel the e-brake is essential,especially with a manual trans.I ordered 5" longer from Inline Tube.On my next truck I`m going with 4" longer.%' is ok and doesn`t droop below the axle,but it could be shorter and still work.I got the oem steel cables,and all the little clamp/hardware stuff for the intermediate cable for around $180 w/shipping.I wish I had gotten the intermediate cable,too.When installing the cable I saw mine`s starting to fray at the j-hooks.They need occasional grease.P.O. must not have done that.BTW,I ordered the cables around 11am on Thursday,I had them Saturday morning.
Finally,the rear driveshaft.I noticed about 3/4-1" of spline showing and another inch or so of shaft that had been riding in the yoke(cleaner & shinier).Going by that and measuring the spline in the yoke and finding the center of travel with the truck on all fours,I came up with a need for a 2" longer shaft(hold the jokes,please.Heck,go ahead.I`m very confident )
I dropped the d-shaft off at a transmission shop in the morning.A good shop does d-shaft lengthening/shortening/balancing since there are so many yoke/tailshaft/etc.variations out there to deal with.I found this shop by asking at a truck hoist/truck body shop I use for my metal bending and other fabbing I`m not equipped for.They alter wheelbases on trucks all the time and they recommended this trans shop for a good local source.I got a call about 3hrs later,it`s done and it cost $92.BTW,the 6" lift included a t-case drop(1")that I disn`t use.I saw no benefit and it seemed it would hurt my front angle more than help the rear.I don`t see how a 1" drop of the t-case for a 6" drop of the axle would have avaoided a 2" extension of the d-shaft anyway.
So,that`s all I can think of that I ran into over and above the kit itself.I feel it is done right and will do my next(coming soon)the same way.Of course,to be safe,I will measure each alteration and not assume it`s the same.Although it should be.Always double-check.The extras cost me an additional $375+/-.

[Southedisto]

Ok, since you have done such a jam up job, why dont you prove it an post some pics of that jewel.

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by Southedisto

Ok, since you have done such a jam up job, why dont you prove it an post some pics of that jewel.

[Yukon Jack]

You all read my mind. Post some pics. Glad the lift kit is installed.

[special-K]

As soon as I can move it.Need to install rear hoses/bleed and pop the driveshaft back in.I can`t wait!The shocks were real sot,leafs were broke/1/2 missing,and tires were lumpy.I don`t think the brakes that were installed last year have ever touched the new drums.In other words,although going gnarly,it shouls feel like a Caddy compared to before.Tires are 35" Xterrains,were cupped SSRs.

[meathead95]

lets see a pic and a part number for the rear hose? i have already ordered 2 from skyjacker and the first one said some year dodge on the package cant exactly remember and the second one says some late model chevy on it which wont work either so i have 2 $100 hoses that wont work that they wont take back either so ill be estatic to find the cure

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Southedisto

Ok, since you have done such a jam up job, why dont you prove it an post some pics of that jewel.

Yeah Tim, show the boys your nice work.

I saw this truck last week before he pulled out the drive line and everything is as descibed, it looks really good/clean and well done.

Made me start thinking about which one of my trucks 'needs' a 6" lift it looked so good.

[70 net440]

I thought the reason for lowering the t-case was to reduce driveshaft angle. Making the driveshaft longer won't change the angle. I'm no expert here, I'm just thinking back to my 10th grade geometry. I'm planning to put a 6 inch lift on my son's '71 soon. I appreciate any info you can pass along.

[special-K]

The driveshaft was lengthened because of the distance being greater from the t-case to the axle after lifting.Nothing to do with angle.My angles are all fine as they are with no mods.
The t-case drop should barely reduce the rear d-shaft angle,but that`s not the one to be concerned with.It`s so long that the angle is barely changed.It`s the short front shaft that I`d be concerned with.And,lowering the t-case only lowers the rear of the engine/trans/t-case unit which increases the angle to the front.The drop kit is a 1" square tube.I don`t see where lowering the t-case 1" is going to have much effect against 6" of lift.So,I omitted it,less work,too.

[meathead95]

no pics?