Disc Brake Conversion c20 to a c10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Twister · 10-29-2002, 08:17 PM

I am looking to convert my front drums on my 70 c-10 to discs from a 72 c-20. Will they swap right over? I have access to them for free so I'd like to make it work. What all will I need from the donor? I can get all I need Thanks in advance....

Big69C20 Toy · 10-30-2002, 02:05 AM

Hmm i think the spindles for the 3/4 are bigger and you'll need tie rods and ball joints for the 3/4 ton parts. also the 3/4 stuff weighs more than the 1/2 stuff so i dunno how well all the old 1/2 ton parts will wear and or how the camber/caster and all that jazz will go. I suppose it'd take a li'l fudging but wouldnt be too bad i dont think.... someone's gota have better info.

crazy longhorn · 10-30-2002, 10:05 AM

If you are doing a 3/4 ton convesion, you should swap the rear diff also to have the 8 lug wheels all around. the complete crossmember will swap in, or you will need spindles, rotors, balljoints, lower a arms(hole size is different 1/2-3/4 ton), tierod assys, & possibly the center link. for the brakes, you will need the prop valve & the master cyl. Good luck.....crazy AL

*Fast68Chevy* · 10-31-2002, 10:40 PM

youll need 3/4 ton arms and spindles along with the rotors and calipers of course, and the centerlink bar and tie rod ends too, and will need ot reroute all hoses and lines to up freont of the engine cradle like all 71-up trucks are setup.

i prefer 73-up hoses cuz are tons longer and pass through frme rail holes that exist already on our frames up in front of cradle.

good luck

crazy longhorn · 11-01-2002, 05:17 PM

Dont worry about the top arms, just the bottom.......been there, & swapped that. My 3/4 ton has 1/2 to ball joints & spindles, but still has the 3/4 ton TOP arms.........crazy AL

**MikeB** · 11-03-2002, 10:18 PM

I know for sure that the inner and outer tie rod ends AND the cross link are different on a C20. And since the tie rods have different threads, you'll need different tie rod adjuster sleeves. I'm not sure about the difference between 72 C10 and C20 ball joints, but your 69 ball joints definitely won't work with the 72 spindles. You CAN keep your brake lines routed behind the crossmeber if you use longer hoses and clamp them to the lower control arms. I think my hoses are from a mid 80s C10.

If I were you, I'd look into a kit from Early Classics or GMCPaul's that lets you use your stock ball joints and steering parts. The kits use custom spindles and stock 71/72 brake parts. They even offer a 6-lug rotor.

crazy longhorn · 11-03-2002, 11:52 PM

I think most of the info is there between all the posts.....hope its not too confusing. Im not sure if Twister wants to keep 1/2 ton parts on the truck, or swap to 3/4 ton spec all around? At any rate, I agree with mike B, altho it would be a little more outlay in parts, an aftermarket bolt on kit would save a lot of confusion, & with the 6 lug discs you will only be messing with 1 end of the truck. If you want a 3/4 ton truck, the simplest no confusion way would be to bolt the complete 20 series crossmember under the truck......with all the steer linkage, spindles , ect.....then do the rear diff. To bolt the 3/4 ton spindles onto your crossmember , you will need lower A arms,all 4 balljoints, tierod assys(inners outers & sleeves). You will also need the center link, & if swapping from manual to power steering, you will need the pitman arm that is with the power box. you will also need the master cyl, prop valve, & lines for the disc brakes. I hope that will clear up any confusion i may have caused with the 'short answer". Good luck.....crazy AL

10-29-2002, 08:17 PM	#1
Twister Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Sunny California Posts: 44	Disc Brake Conversion c20 to a c10 I am looking to convert my front drums on my 70 c-10 to discs from a 72 c-20. Will they swap right over? I have access to them for free so I'd like to make it work. What all will I need from the donor? I can get all I need Thanks in advance....

10-30-2002, 02:05 AM	#2
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	Hmm i think the spindles for the 3/4 are bigger and you'll need tie rods and ball joints for the 3/4 ton parts. also the 3/4 stuff weighs more than the 1/2 stuff so i dunno how well all the old 1/2 ton parts will wear and or how the camber/caster and all that jazz will go. I suppose it'd take a li'l fudging but wouldnt be too bad i dont think.... someone's gota have better info. __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

11-03-2002, 10:18 PM	#6
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,597	I know for sure that the inner and outer tie rod ends AND the cross link are different on a C20. And since the tie rods have different threads, you'll need different tie rod adjuster sleeves. I'm not sure about the difference between 72 C10 and C20 ball joints, but your 69 ball joints definitely won't work with the 72 spindles. You CAN keep your brake lines routed behind the crossmeber if you use longer hoses and clamp them to the lower control arms. I think my hoses are from a mid 80s C10. If I were you, I'd look into a kit from Early Classics or GMCPaul's that lets you use your stock ball joints and steering parts. The kits use custom spindles and stock 71/72 brake parts. They even offer a 6-lug rotor. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

10-30-2002, 10:05 AM	#3
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	If you are doing a 3/4 ton convesion, you should swap the rear diff also to have the 8 lug wheels all around. the complete crossmember will swap in, or you will need spindles, rotors, balljoints, lower a arms(hole size is different 1/2-3/4 ton), tierod assys, & possibly the center link. for the brakes, you will need the prop valve & the master cyl. Good luck.....crazy AL

10-31-2002, 10:40 PM	#4
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	youll need 3/4 ton arms and spindles along with the rotors and calipers of course, and the centerlink bar and tie rod ends too, and will need ot reroute all hoses and lines to up freont of the engine cradle like all 71-up trucks are setup. i prefer 73-up hoses cuz are tons longer and pass through frme rail holes that exist already on our frames up in front of cradle. good luck

11-01-2002, 05:17 PM	#5
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	Dont worry about the top arms, just the bottom.......been there, & swapped that. My 3/4 ton has 1/2 to ball joints & spindles, but still has the 3/4 ton TOP arms.........crazy AL

11-03-2002, 11:52 PM	#7
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	I think most of the info is there between all the posts.....hope its not too confusing. Im not sure if Twister wants to keep 1/2 ton parts on the truck, or swap to 3/4 ton spec all around? At any rate, I agree with mike B, altho it would be a little more outlay in parts, an aftermarket bolt on kit would save a lot of confusion, & with the 6 lug discs you will only be messing with 1 end of the truck. If you want a 3/4 ton truck, the simplest no confusion way would be to bolt the complete 20 series crossmember under the truck......with all the steer linkage, spindles , ect.....then do the rear diff. To bolt the 3/4 ton spindles onto your crossmember , you will need lower A arms,all 4 balljoints, tierod assys(inners outers & sleeves). You will also need the center link, & if swapping from manual to power steering, you will need the pitman arm that is with the power box. you will also need the master cyl, prop valve, & lines for the disc brakes. I hope that will clear up any confusion i may have caused with the 'short answer". Good luck.....crazy AL



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