11-28-2006, 11:06 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 588
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C-Notch
Aight I have decided to go with the CPP c-notch. I was wondering how people have cut the frame?
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1970 Chevy C10 "Under Construction" 2002 Chevy S10 V6 |
11-29-2006, 12:23 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
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Re: C-Notch
I am going old school with a drill and sawzall. For Christmas my wife is getting me a nice compressor for the garage and I can go air tool.
I also have my eye on a nice plasma/tig/mig (light weight, not hard core) machine, but I might not get that until Spring. |
11-29-2006, 01:38 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Covington, WA
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Re: C-Notch
I go cutting torch, fire is always good
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11-29-2006, 10:47 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 98
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Re: C-Notch
when i used cpp notches, i used the notch as the template, trace to the outside becouse if you cut your hole for the notch a little bigger it is easier to adjust to the contour of the frame. also when you make your mark, drill a hole in the corners of the mark and cut to the drilled holes so you don't get any stress cracks
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11-29-2006, 04:43 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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Re: C-Notch
Sawzall.
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11-29-2006, 04:52 PM | #6 |
Active Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 682
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Re: C-Notch
Torch for me.
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11-29-2006, 05:57 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: modesto CA
Posts: 239
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Re: C-Notch
i have done it with a sawzall a torch and a plazma
unless you are good witha torch and have the right tip you could be in for a messy job where a sawzall is prety clean if you have the bed off and the room but i would never go without my plazma unless there was no other choice
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11-29-2006, 09:10 PM | #8 |
Outlandish Trends - FL
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,396
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Re: C-Notch
You all forgot the most important step in the process of installing a notch. You must brace your frame on jackstands or some other method in front of and behind the notch point BEFORE you start cutting. If you don't you run the risk of bending/cracking the frame at the point where you cut and that would ruin your day. I'm also going to disagree with Chase on tracing the outside of the notch. I traced the inside and then used a cutoff wheel to grind out the excess so I got a tight fit. My motto was this: You can always cut more if needed, but if you cut too much, you're screwed. You don't get a do-over. Another tip to use is, at your corners / \ <--top of each of these lines, before you cut use a drill bit and drill the holes. Then you can use your sawzall or cutoff wheel and just connect the dots with the holes you drilled. You want round corners so that the frame doesn't spider crack from rough-cut edges.
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11-29-2006, 11:58 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: C-Notch
I am drilling my corners and will cut from hole to hole. One reason I was holding off on the rear was the idea of bracing before cutting. I will put jack stands on either side before I even drill.
I am also welding my notch in once it's bolted so it will become part of the frame. I tow and haul with my truck, so I want it to be as solid as possible. Bolted, welded, tight fit, good to go. |
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