Rear Air Bag Cups and Plates

[kdevore2]

Where can I get them? Just want the cups and plates, not the complete kit.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by kdevore2

Where can I get them? Just want the cups and plates, not the complete kit.

www.***************** has them as well as great prices.

[kdevore2]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

www.***************** has them as well as great prices.

I checked thier website, but didn't see anything for a 66 except the "build your own" cups. Where are you seeing them?

[71swb4x4]

I am not familiar with your era of truck. Are you replacing coil springs?

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by kdevore2

I checked thier website, but didn't see anything for a 66 except the "build your own" cups. Where are you seeing them?

If your looking for them directly for a 66 your not gonna find them as far as I know, but the already built fullsize cups owkr.
They are under bag brackets and fullsize 67-87 front bag brackets. Those fit the 66 c10

[kdevore2]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

If your looking for them directly for a 66 your not gonna find them as far as I know, but the already built fullsize cups owkr.
They are under bag brackets and fullsize 67-87 front bag brackets. Those fit the 66 c10

OK. So, I think I'm figuring this out. Sorry, never done bags before and there really isn't much detailed install info on the 60-66 trucks. Correct me if I'm wrong, but do I not need cups or any type of brackets to mount the rear bags in place of the coil springs? Looks like I could just run a bolt up through the control arm and into the threaded boss on the bottom of the bag and then mark and drill the bottom of the frame rail for the two studs and the 3/8" air port to mount the the top of the bag. Anything wrong with this?

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by kdevore2

OK. So, I think I'm figuring this out. Sorry, never done bags before and there really isn't much detailed install info on the 60-66 trucks. Correct me if I'm wrong, but do I not need cups or any type of brackets to mount the rear bags in place of the coil springs? Looks like I could just run a bolt up through the control arm and into the threaded boss on the bottom of the bag and then mark and drill the bottom of the frame rail for the two studs and the 3/8" air port to mount the the top of the bag. Anything wrong with this?

Absolutely nothing wrong with that. That is what most people are doing with 67-72's, and as far as I know your trailing arm setup should be similar to the 67-72 setup.

[kdevore2]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Absolutely nothing wrong with that. That is what most people are doing with 67-72's, and as far as I know your trailing arm setup should be similar to the 67-72 setup.

Cool! Thanks for the info.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by kdevore2

OK. So, I think I'm figuring this out. Sorry, never done bags before and there really isn't much detailed install info on the 60-66 trucks. Correct me if I'm wrong, but do I not need cups or any type of brackets to mount the rear bags in place of the coil springs? Looks like I could just run a bolt up through the control arm and into the threaded boss on the bottom of the bag and then mark and drill the bottom of the frame rail for the two studs and the 3/8" air port to mount the the top of the bag. Anything wrong with this?

Exactly what I have. Even with a notch though, it won't lay on the ground, but will be about 6 inches off because of the bag and the way it hits the frame. Sorry, with the whole cup thing, I was assuming you ment the front. The back is a lot easier and you should only need to do as you said. I welded a plate onto the lower arm where the spring attaches and drilled a hole so it goes up through the factory hole, but has a mount ontop where the bag sits. Get a good bit, it's a pain in the butt to drill through the frame right there because of the reenforcements for the springs

[kdevore2]

OK, got my bags from Suicide Doors and installed them as instructed by you guys and it all worked out great. The sharp drill bits definately helped out. Now for the front I have another question. I've read that you don't need the lower bag cups for the front. They claim the bag will fit right into the recessed area that the coil sets in. What do you think? Anybody else do it this way. I plan on ordering the bags and upper plates from Suicide Doors as sugested by leftcoast66. Should I not get the cups? Thanks!

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by kdevore2

OK, got my bags from Suicide Doors and installed them as instructed by you guys and it all worked out great. The sharp drill bits definately helped out. Now for the front I have another question. I've read that you don't need the lower bag cups for the front. They claim the bag will fit right into the recessed area that the coil sets in. What do you think? Anybody else do it this way. I plan on ordering the bags and upper plates from Suicide Doors as sugested by leftcoast66. Should I not get the cups? Thanks!

based upon the size of my firestones, I think it would be too deep, and you would need a really wide washer to make it all workout because the hole in the bottom of the a-arm is huge so I'd get cups, and worst come worst you could cut them down.

[project76]

I used the cups but you cant get very low without modding the bottom cup. You can have a machine shop turn it down or you can chop it off to get the bag to sit lower in the a arm. I think i turned my lower mount down so it just cleared the lip in the lower control arm.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

I used the cups but you cant get very low without modding the bottom cup. You can have a machine shop turn it down or you can chop it off to get the bag to sit lower in the a arm. I think i turned my lower mount down so it just cleared the lip in the lower control arm.

How much did you take off? Just curious about doin that, mine's the original cup height from wen I bought them.

[project76]

I cut all but about a 1/2" off, it was just enough to clear the lip in the bottom of the control arm. Never had an any issues with rubbing.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

I cut all but about a 1/2" off, it was just enough to clear the lip in the bottom of the control arm. Never had an any issues with rubbing.

Good to know, didn't know you could cut that much w/o rubbing.

[project76]

Before i decided to switch to strong arms and a dropmember i hacked the rolled lip out of the bottom of the stock arm and replaced it with a flat piece of steel. I then drilled and mounted the bag directly to the plate. It was pretty simple to do and it allowed me an extra inch over the hacked down cup. I stole the idea from someone on this board last year, ill see if i can find the link. Cheap way to get alittle more if the k member is not on the ground yet.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

Before i decided to switch to strong arms and a dropmember i hacked the rolled lip out of the bottom of the stock arm and replaced it with a flat piece of steel. I then drilled and mounted the bag directly to the plate. It was pretty simple to do and it allowed me an extra inch over the hacked down cup. I stole the idea from someone on this board last year, ill see if i can find the link. Cheap way to get alittle more if the k member is not on the ground yet.

Ya, my lower control arms lay out pretty hard right now as it is. I'm hoping to build a setup similar to the dropmember cuz I'm too broke for a dropmember, but I'm fine w/ fabrication, and my uncle's an ironworker and dang good at welding, so he's gonna help w/ it. Should be fun and a lot better than zing the frame. How easy was the dropmember to install?

[project76]

Havent got it yet. I picked up the strong arms this summer and had them on my chopped stock member. Are you looking to mod the stock member or build a one off like porterbuilt did? Sounds like you have the tools and help to get it done

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

Havent got it yet. I picked up the strong arms this summer and had them on my chopped stock member. Are you looking to mod the stock member or build a one off like porterbuilt did? Sounds like you have the tools and help to get it done

I haven't decided, was it hard to run the chopped stock member?Any info you have on this would be so amazing cuz I've never seen it done before and not sure which I prefer, dropmember style, or chop the existing. Either way I'm gonna do new motor mounts because of other issues.

[project76]

Here is a link i followed when i cut my xmember.

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/suicidal.html


Here is a link to one being installed in a 67-72, not sure how similair things are between yours and these years.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=crossmember

You may have seen these before, hit me up with a pm if you have anymore questions.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

Here is a link i followed when i cut my xmember.

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/suicidal.html


Here is a link to one being installed in a 67-72, not sure how similair things are between yours and these years.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=crossmember

You may have seen these before, hit me up with a pm if you have anymore questions.

The one question I have, is when you lift the crossmember that way, do you then after you make the cuts make the mounting points lower so as to lift up the crossmember? Any info into that specific stuff would be great.

[project76]

When you section it the way i did (captkaos way) the holes through the bottom of the frame rail still line up. The ones that run through the side of the frame rail have to be re-drilled since they have been moved up the distance of the section you removed. The nice part about doing it this way is that it maintains the stock oil pan to xmember clearance.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

When you section it the way i did (captkaos way) the holes through the bottom of the frame rail still line up. The ones that run through the side of the frame rail have to be re-drilled since they have been moved up the distance of the section you removed. The nice part about doing it this way is that it maintains the stock oil pan to xmember clearance.

Sweet, that's what I was wanting to know. So I will have to redrill the sides. I'm probably gonna see if I can do this hopefully this spring and then throw it in the truck w/ new motor mounts to lift it up the extra inch to clear exhaust. I like the idea that it retains the stock clearance w/o doing anything, that's definately handy.