Engine sputters---carb/choke problem?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

RainDog · 05-02-2002, 03:43 PM

Hey guys--tha carb. on my truck, near as I can tell, is shot. The choke sticks on it sometimes, and once in a while the engine will chug and sputter for 3 to 5 seconds after I turn the key off. I don't believe it's timing, I checked the timing about a month ago, and it only seems to rev too much when the choke is stuck. Is the carb. my culprit, or should I check something else??? Thanks, RainDog

**COBALT** · 05-02-2002, 05:32 PM

How does it idle?

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

Gordo · 05-02-2002, 06:01 PM

Need more info, what year is the truck, what size engine and which carb and is it stock or modified?

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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi
Killingworth, Connecticut

roger0080 · 05-02-2002, 10:55 PM

If the engine is running on after you turn it off, then you probably have carbon deposits in the engine causing it to continue running. Not a carb problem in that case.

The sticky choke/choke problem should be easy to fix and cure.

dmnall · 05-03-2002, 03:26 AM

Also could be that your engine is running to Rich.. Trust me I went through 3 carbs (2 AFBs and 1 Quadrajet) and my problem was the fact that 1 AFB's Primary Shaft was worn out that I had to richen it up to get it too run right and it would do what your's is doing now!! My Quadrajet, had 2 problems 1. Primary Shaft was worse then my AFB and 2. Throttle Body was messed up that my air/fuel adjustment screws were not working right because all the way in on either both or each one seperately, would do nothing and all the way out did nothing.. And plus when Idiling it would be very erratic and not Idle consistanly!! Then I was given another AFB and that carb works Excellent!!

What I would do is take the carb numbers and get a rebuild kit for it, then get a can of Parts Dip and rebuild the Carb!! Before you actually do rebuild the carb, check the Primary Shaft and see if there is a lot of play in the shaft! If there is then you can do 1 of 2 things, either Find a Shop that specializes in rebuilding carbs and let them Rebuild your carb and have them put new bushings in the Carb(when ya get the carb back it will be like Brand New but this can be expensive though Local shop in my area charges $350 to do the above) or just buy a new carb! You can buy a remaned Carb from Napa or Carquest for around $ 150 - 250 or you can buy a brand new Carter AFB for around $ 200 or Edelbrock around the same price as a Carter! Or you can buy a Modified Qjet carb from http://www.jegs.com for around $ 380.

This is just my opinion on what I would do!!

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Truck #1 68 Chev LWB Fleet w/ Wood Floor (Sucks Gas and Hauls Ass!) and in process of Body Work...

Truck #2 1994 GMC Sierra SL w/ 4.3L Vortec V6, 4L60E Auto!!

05-02-2002, 06:01 PM	#3
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Need more info, what year is the truck, what size engine and which carb and is it stock or modified? ------------------ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi Killingworth, Connecticut __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

05-02-2002, 10:55 PM	#4
roger0080 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Carver County, Minnesota, USA Posts: 627	If the engine is running on after you turn it off, then you probably have carbon deposits in the engine causing it to continue running. Not a carb problem in that case. The sticky choke/choke problem should be easy to fix and cure. __________________ 72 Chev C-10 90% restored (former AZ truck) ... 71 Chev K-20 Cheyenne my vacation crusier... 72 Chev C-10 Now retired and striped after many faithful miles... 72 GMC 1500 Retired to the junk yard after bought new in '71...

05-03-2002, 03:26 AM	#5
dmnall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Goleta, CA Posts: 505	Also could be that your engine is running to Rich.. Trust me I went through 3 carbs (2 AFBs and 1 Quadrajet) and my problem was the fact that 1 AFB's Primary Shaft was worn out that I had to richen it up to get it too run right and it would do what your's is doing now!! My Quadrajet, had 2 problems 1. Primary Shaft was worse then my AFB and 2. Throttle Body was messed up that my air/fuel adjustment screws were not working right because all the way in on either both or each one seperately, would do nothing and all the way out did nothing.. And plus when Idiling it would be very erratic and not Idle consistanly!! Then I was given another AFB and that carb works Excellent!! What I would do is take the carb numbers and get a rebuild kit for it, then get a can of Parts Dip and rebuild the Carb!! Before you actually do rebuild the carb, check the Primary Shaft and see if there is a lot of play in the shaft! If there is then you can do 1 of 2 things, either Find a Shop that specializes in rebuilding carbs and let them Rebuild your carb and have them put new bushings in the Carb(when ya get the carb back it will be like Brand New but this can be expensive though Local shop in my area charges $350 to do the above) or just buy a new carb! You can buy a remaned Carb from Napa or Carquest for around $ 150 - 250 or you can buy a brand new Carter AFB for around $ 200 or Edelbrock around the same price as a Carter! Or you can buy a Modified Qjet carb from http://www.jegs.com for around $ 380. This is just my opinion on what I would do!! ------------------ Truck #1 68 Chev LWB Fleet w/ Wood Floor (Sucks Gas and Hauls Ass!) and in process of Body Work... Truck #2 1994 GMC Sierra SL w/ 4.3L Vortec V6, 4L60E Auto!! __________________ 1968 C10 Truck LWB Fleetside 1968 C10 Truck SWB Stepside 1994 K2500 Ext Cab Fleetside 2008 Honda Civic Si lease

05-02-2002, 03:43 PM	#1
RainDog Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Burien, WA, USA Posts: 391	Engine sputters---carb/choke problem?? Hey guys--tha carb. on my truck, near as I can tell, is shot. The choke sticks on it sometimes, and once in a while the engine will chug and sputter for 3 to 5 seconds after I turn the key off. I don't believe it's timing, I checked the timing about a month ago, and it only seems to rev too much when the choke is stuck. Is the carb. my culprit, or should I check something else??? Thanks, RainDog __________________ "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."

05-02-2002, 05:32 PM	#2
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	How does it idle? ------------------ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed! '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast). Seattle, WA. *See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com! __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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