Lets see some Plumbing Pics...

[jasonrmorrow]

I've got my airbags on schraeders at the moment, tank/compressor/valves will arrive next week...

I know there is more than one way to plumb the system...I want to see some pics. I'm planning on running the tank behind the cab on the frame rail...i like the "cleanliness" of mounting both the fill and dump valves right at the tank, then just having lines to run.

I gotta make my list of fittings, its easier to picture with the **** all in front of me...but pictures are the next best thing.

Soooo pics...lets see em.

[robsm88]

Hope to see some pics too. I am just a few steps behind you in my progress.

[camaro__thunder]

[IMG]http://*****************/how_to/wire-diagrams/8valve.gif[/IMG]

[67Fleet]

The closer you can have your valves to the bags the better. I'm running my front valves under the core support, and the rears are just inside my rear bumper on a bed cross-sill. 2 3-gal tanks, 1 on each side of frame rail just behind cab, and I've got 2 Viair 380c comps mounted under the cab on driver framerail so I can hear if something is malfunctioning. I put an extra strip of rubber on each side of the feet for extra sound-deadening so they're not overbearing right under me.

For your fittings, just be prepared to have to go back and get more, or just buy plenty extra up front with the intention of returning some. I ended up doing both.

[jimmydean]

Why would you want the valves near the bag? I was looking at the Air Lift install guide and they run from the tank to both valves, then the line all the way to the bags. There is a T to the gauges, but that's it.

[PBFAB.COM]

The closer the valves are to the bag the quicker the bag will fill (less volume of line to fill up). It truly doesn't make that much of a difference. I prefer mounting the valves in an area that is easily accessible. That way WHEN it's time to do some maintenance or repair or replacement of a valve it's easier.

[jimmydean]

PB, that makes a lot of sense now tha I can visualize it, thanks for the explanation. I liked the way they mounted the dump valves on the frame rail in Project Old School. They mounted them on the outside of the frame rail under the driver side cab for front, and passenger side for rear with the fill valves mouted on the tank. I look at this truck a lot because it is very close to where my truck is headed for the build.



<edit> Here is a funny quote from the article:
"When it comes to plumbing techniques: if there are four people in the room, then there will be four "right ways" to set up your system. My opinion: function over form. Easy access and the least amount of chance of the lines kinking are what I look for in a good install."

[bagged69c10]

I would reccomend "manifolding" the valves together using brass fittings rather than airline between the valves. I had like that the first time I bagged it and when I back halfed it I manifolded them and I think it turned out alot better.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by bagged69c10

I would reccomend "manifolding" the valves together using brass fittings rather than airline between the valves. I had like that the first time I bagged it and when I back halfed it I manifolded them and I think it turned out alot better.

That's how mine are and it looks super clean that way.

[jasonrmorrow]

Do you guys use "t's" with tapped holes for your gauge pressure...or do you use a cross with a bushing...

the t's are a custom made piece arent they, a cross with either a nipple to go from 3/8ths npt to 1/8" tube would work...is that nipple avail ?? If not then i have to do a bushing to an 1/8" PTC nipple.

Soooooooo many fittings
i have 26 counted so far, just get the bags air...not including gauges, or attatching the compressor or the water trap...luckily a friend of a friend owns a hose headquarters/abilty hose type place.

[jimmydean]

What I am looking at is stupid simple. Nipple from tank to fill valve. Street T from fill valve to dump valve. Elbow with gauge fitting from fill valve to bag.

So from tank to bag, I have:
3 nipples
1 street T
1 elbow with gauge fitting
1 elbow to bag
1/2" line to bag
1/8" line to gauge

It might not be the fastest setup, but I am going for simple. Each line is independant, there are as few junctions as possible, and I use hard line and fittings where they count.

I hope to have everything here by next weekend and start the tear down and build up then.

[camaro__thunder]

Pretty much all you will need to know.. http://www.bagginit.com/

[jasonrmorrow]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

What I am looking at is stupid simple. Nipple from tank to fill valve. Street T from fill valve to dump valve. Elbow with gauge fitting from fill valve to bag.

So from tank to bag, I have:
3 nipples
1 street T
1 elbow with gauge fitting
1 elbow to bag
1/2" line to bag
1/8" line to gauge

It might not be the fastest setup, but I am going for simple. Each line is independant, there are as few junctions as possible, and I use hard line and fittings where they count.

I hope to have everything here by next weekend and start the tear down and build up then.

Well thats the exact setup i had planned, 24 pieces for 4 bags, then you have to plumb the rest of the tank...

and those elbows with gauge fittings, are they available or custom made.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by jasonrmorrow

Well thats the exact setup i had planned, 26 pieces for 4 bags, then you have to plumb the rest of the tank...

and those elbows with gauge fittings, are they available or custom made.

What i was looking at were the T that Suicide Doors carries that has a gauge fitting on it, then plug one end. I will wait to see what I find local before I get too crazy. As for the rest of the tank, all I need to add is a water trap and drain plug. My tank, compressor. and bags will be here tomorrow and I will have a better idea what I need then.

I got a nearly full kit off ebay that someone bought and never put together. So it has a couple fittings and I don't know how many ports are on the tank (I think it has 8). But from the compressor to the tank, you can just run the hose that's on the compressor to a water trap, then a nipple from the trap to the tank. So maybe another $.60 for the nipple and your set.

I will get all my crap together in a week or two and hope to have it all done in a couple days after that.

[IMG]http://www.*****************/images/products/mid_12BrassTeewith1890DegFitting.jpg[/IMG]

[jasonrmorrow]

I knew suicide doors had em, and by looking closer at that pic and seeing the "flat" under the gauge fitting it looks like its manufactured that way, rather than being a "custom made" tee by suicide doors or the supplier.

The Tee with a fitting would be the cleanest and least # of connections.

My crap is all stuck at the border, unfortunately i bought through a small company...so i have to call everyday to see if its there...i trust the guy, even though it was a 100% deposit on the parts...hahaha I said "So you want me to pay for them up front".

I'll make some calls tomorrow to see if that piece is commonly available.

Thanks

[onehot69stepside]

[IMG]http://www.*****************/images/products/mid_12BrassTeewith1890DegFitting.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

use this tee to manifold your valves. That way you have straight shot lines. No "splices" anywhere. And then just use longer guage lines to run all the way to the valve assembly/manifold.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by bagged69c10

I would reccomend "manifolding" the valves together using brass fittings rather than airline between the valves. I had like that the first time I bagged it and when I back halfed it I manifolded them and I think it turned out alot better.

when you say manifold them together, what do you mean?

i assume you mean something like, 1 line from the tank to a T, then on each side of the T, put a valve. is this correct?

wouldn't fill time be a little slower since you have one line going to two bags?

[BK]

where does everyone run their lines out of their front bags? i have mine run through holes in the rear of the crossmember above the bag in the coil spring pocket that i drilled and wollowed out. i was always concerned about it rubbing through. does anyone know where to get 1/2" grommets? pics help.

[jimmydean]

You should be able to get grommets of any size at NAPA or Ace Hardware. I have also made my own using a quality rubber cement when needed.

[thekid54]

I found that most gromets didn't work with the super thick metal found on these front crossmembers. The grove between the two outer lips wasn't big enough. I used 3/8" rubber fuel line hose and slit it down the middle lengthwise and wrapped it around the plastic airline, making a sleeve for it. There were 2 holes (one on each side) under my motor mounts that I used to run the airline through, just had to enlarge them a bit.


This may be a stupid question, but how does the 1/8" gauge line attach to, say a viar gauge? What gives it an air-tight seal. Am I missing something or am I just retarded?

[BK]

well, with my guages, it was just a quick release in the rear of the guage, similar to the larger ones for big lines. not sure exactly how it works, but it seems to.

[Rollie396]

I used these bulkhead fittings for plumbing the lines through the crossmember.Had to clearance the engine mounts a bit but it works well.

[short step]

suicide doors has free shipping on fittings ,also check http://www.fittingsdepot.com/index.html
bob