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Old 12-10-2002, 01:10 AM   #1
low 84
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Thumbs up i'm redoing EVERYTHING!

here is the list to redo the whole suspension, not set in stone yet.

Anti Sway Bars
http://www.sporttruckdirect.com/hellwigbars.html
front = $150
rear = $150


Front End Kit
http://www.performancesuspension.com/main.htm
Upper & Lower Ball Joints
Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends
Idler Arm
Complete Upper & Lower Shaft Assemblies
Graphite Impregnated Polyurethane Bushings*
Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings
Sway Bar Bushing Kit with Brackets
Polyurethane Tie Rod Boots
kit = $280


Front Breaks
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...ize%20Truck%20(2WD)&year=1984
Slotted Rotors
Hi.po pads
kit = $305


Shocks
http://www.performancesuspension.com/main.htm
edlebrock ias shocks
4 = $280


Steering
dunno yet, looking for closer ratio box

Locally Purchased
F.M. wheel bearings
Paint (cleaning painting all front end parts)
Rear drums, shoes, and rebuild kit
other misc.
used control arms (bent my lower left one)
estimated = $250


TOTAL = $1415 + steering parts + shipping


i'll be doing this over a couple weeks this summer. the stance of the truck won't cahnge but it will sure as hell handle/ride different. 80 mph 's' curves
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:39 AM   #2
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You said "Impregnated"!! !!!!

Sounds like a plan Ryan. With all that fancy work, I bet she'll corner like she's on rails! If you need help, just yell. I've done my fair share of suspension work.
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:06 AM   #3
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If you do your front end kit first Ryan let me know because that'son my list of things I need to learn/do an would love to help as well as practice in case I haven't one mine by then.
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:28 AM   #4
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this is gonna be my big project this summer brandon. so if you haven't done yours yet we can 'practice' on mine
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 12-10-2002, 09:12 AM   #5
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Count me in too!

Yep, count me in too! I'm always wanting to learn more. Of course, that's not too hard for me since I don't know much to start with.
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Old 12-10-2002, 09:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84
this is gonna be my big project this summer brandon. so if you haven't done yours yet we can 'practice' on mine
I'd seriously suggest the front end kit from P-S-T. I've heard very good things about thier products. Also they make a front disc brake updgrade kit you may want to look into.
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:06 PM   #7
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That is what I want to do also!! Those are nice lookin rotors!! Couldnt find any slotted when I was looking , just the cross drilled PowerStop/PowerSlot brand
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Last edited by LOHRTBT; 12-10-2002 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:56 PM   #8
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The front sway bar, I think you can forgo. A 1 1/4 bar from a 3/4-1ton should be just as good.

Front brakes are no good. You can get powerslot rotors [made out of brembo blanks] for $90 a piece plus your standerd $30 brake pads= a few bucks saved

Shocks- good choice, althogh pricey
front end kit- good choice

Just my opinon if it matters
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:09 PM   #9
low 84
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tom - are those rotors crossdrilled? i posted about those and people said they crack and warp?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:24 PM   #10
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looks like a good list. You gonna add it to the 400 cost?
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by messed up c-10
looks like a good list. You gonna add it to the 400 cost?
actually i'm forgoing the new motor for now until i get this knocked out. my current one shouldbe good enough once i put the heads on for a while. the breaks are craping out on me and there is like 4 inches of play in the steering. so i need to redo all this before i try puting 500 hp in it
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 12-10-2002, 04:16 PM   #12
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Ryan-
they are slotted only rotors. You might be able to get cross drilled, but I dont know I never checked. Dont believe in them excpet on race cars

When I bought the slotted rotors for my 99 accord, the instructions said use metallic pads. BAD IDEA! from the first time I hit the brakes there was a huge grinding, metal on metal noise. I tried changing the pads back and forth, side to side, everything. Nothing worked. Finally went back and got the OEM ceramic pads and never looked back.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle.
-98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes.
-02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front
-CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis
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Old 12-10-2002, 04:20 PM   #13
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Then he totaled the car try to be a race car driver!

EDIT:
Maybe you'd still have that Honda if the brakes were cross drilled. j/k
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Old 12-10-2002, 05:07 PM   #14
low 84
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom
Ryan-
they are slotted only rotors. You might be able to get cross drilled, but I dont know I never checked. Dont believe in them excpet on race cars

When I bought the slotted rotors for my 99 accord, the instructions said use metallic pads. BAD IDEA! from the first time I hit the brakes there was a huge grinding, metal on metal noise. I tried changing the pads back and forth, side to side, everything. Nothing worked. Finally went back and got the OEM ceramic pads and never looked back.
ok thnx, i don't want crosse drilled ones, just slotted. can you link me to a site where they sell those ones you mentioned?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 12-10-2002, 05:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84


actually i'm forgoing the new motor for now until i get this knocked out. my current one shouldbe good enough once i put the heads on for a while. the breaks are craping out on me and there is like 4 inches of play in the steering. so i need to redo all this before i try puting 500 hp in it
the play in the wheel is what makes driving fun. I need new brakes too and will probably add them to the top of my list.
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89 S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L
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Old 12-10-2002, 05:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom
Ryan-
they are slotted only rotors. You might be able to get cross drilled, but I dont know I never checked. Dont believe in them excpet on race cars

When I bought the slotted rotors for my 99 accord, the instructions said use metallic pads. BAD IDEA! from the first time I hit the brakes there was a huge grinding, metal on metal noise. I tried changing the pads back and forth, side to side, everything. Nothing worked. Finally went back and got the OEM ceramic pads and never looked back.
I've used Delco pads with great success on my sotted Powersots on my 98.
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Old 12-10-2002, 07:04 PM   #17
LOHRTBT
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Power slot does not offer slotted rotors for our trucks...only cross drilled.
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- 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05*
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Old 12-10-2002, 07:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by LOHRTBT
Power slot does not offer slotted rotors for our trucks...only cross drilled.
Doh.

Where'd you get yours and how much?
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Old 12-11-2002, 12:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84

can you link me to a site where they sell those ones you mentioned?
Unfortunatly I had to buy them at the local rice shop. Man did I feel low walking in there.

Eddie- stay out of this! "maybe you'd still have the honda if the brake were cross drilled" Gota addmit thats funny as sh*t!!
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-98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes.
-02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front
-CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis
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Old 12-11-2002, 01:22 PM   #20
LOHRTBT
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Izzy...they are from power slot or powerstop what ever you want to call them....they were like $119 if I remember correct, just give em a call.
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- 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now
- 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05*
- 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD
- 1999 T/A Some mods
www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave

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