Couple questions on bagging a 67

[The Big Green]

I have a 1967 chevy swb and I want to bag it. First of all I want to be able to drive it on a regular basis. I don't really want to drag frame I want it more for a good ride quality but I'm sure I will end up wanting to drag it later on. I need the exhaust to tuck and not hang down like it is now but I don't know how that can be done. I don't really want a $4000 bag setup but something I can upgrade later on. I would appreciate any help.

[hotrodhomi]

What is the question?

[The Big Green]

I read that again and I got lost so let me refrase that. My first question is that my 2 1/2 exhaust coing off my headers turns down right behind cab and has a couple 2 chamber flows. How can I hide this exhaust? I don't like seeing it when you look at the truck from the side and see everything. I want to bag but first I need to find a way to move the pipes out of the way.

[jlaird]

well depending on what headers you have, you may need 3/4 length or shortys. The only other thing you have to do if you want the exhaust to go further than the back of the cab is to cut holes in the crossmember. The easier way out though is to get the extreme drop crossmember at ece.





CPP has one too:

[Inverter]

Get the "Sanderson" streetrod headers,modify crossmember like the above post,run new pipe and get the correct inlet/outlet config. on your chambered muffs. DONE!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Inverter

Get the "Sanderson" streetrod headers,modify crossmember like the above post,run new pipe and get the correct inlet/outlet config. on your chambered muffs. DONE!

There are several manufacturers that offer "3/4 length" headers. People have used F-body, A-body, & street-rod style headers w/good clearance. Another option is the old 60's ram horn cast manifolds.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Inverter

Get the "Sanderson" streetrod headers,modify crossmember like the above post,run new pipe and get the correct inlet/outlet config. on your chambered muffs. DONE!

like these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SANDE...QQcmdZViewItem

[The Big Green]

Thanks guys this helps me out alot and when I get these pipes out of the way I can start bagging it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction on bagging. I know as far as compressors and switches. I want it for ride quality so whats the easiest way of bagging my 67 chevy? I want Slam bags but what about a good monster notch and 4-link? I don't really want to get 3 grand in parts right now I'm a poor guy with to many toys. I want to start getting the bags and stuff though. What size Slam bags would I need?

Thanks in advance

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

Thanks guys this helps me out alot and when I get these pipes out of the way I can start bagging it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction on bagging. I know as far as compressors and switches. I want it for ride quality so whats the easiest way of bagging my 67 chevy? I want Slam bags but what about a good monster notch and 4-link? I don't really want to get 3 grand in parts right now I'm a poor guy with to many toys. I want to start getting the bags and stuff though. What size Slam bags would I need?

Thanks in advance

ART or KP Components are good places to start for kits for people that aren't familiar w/all the pro's/con's of putting their own system together. Suicide Doors is a good place for piecing your own 'kit' together.

[IvelDesigns]

Cheap baggin' 101

Plan A
$300 - 4 Bags - Slam Specialties RE-7's are a good fit
$20 - 25' of 3/8" air line
$30ish - Some brass fittings (every setup is different, so i'm not gonna guess what you need)
$10 - 4 shrader valves (tire filler valves... you can get them at NAPA)
$50 - Cups and Plates for the fronts

$410 - Total

Plan B
Everything in Plan A, minus the shrader valves
$120 - New Shocks
$220 - 8 3/8" SMC valves
$220 - Vlair Compressor
$20 - 10 switch box
$50 - 5 gallon tank
$20 - more 3/8" line
$60 - more fittings
$100 - Adjustable Panhard Bar

$1120 - Total

Plan C
Everything in Plan B
$100 - Guages
$300 - 2.5" drop spindles
$100 - Bolt in C-Notch
$100 - new ball joints
$75 - new tie rod ends

$1895 - Total

Couple things to note. if you have a split drive shaft, you can flip the carrier bearing mount to get a pretty good pinion angle. while you have thins apart, you might as well replace trailing arm bushings, and U-joints. Also, a set of 2.5" blocks wouldn't hurt. That means new U-bolts.

That setup is pretty much what i did to my 69. I drive it daily (until it snows) and have had no issues.

Oh, i forgot to mention that almost everything listed above can be found at *****************. everything else can be picked up from ECE or NAPA.

good luck!

[hotrodhomi]

Why do you need an adjustable panhard bar?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

Why do you need an adjustable panhard bar?

As the truck drops, the rear shifts over & the stock bar is no longer the correct length. You could technically modify the stock bar to work for ride height, but once you dump the air, the location of the stock short bar will cause the rear to shift more.

[IvelDesigns]

The other option would be a wishbone type setup where you build a cross member behind your axle that has two arms that connect to the pumpkin in a V. This would prevent your axle from moving side to side as well.

There are also many other options too, each way more expensive than an adjustable panhard bar.