11 second ?

[pulltilbroke]

Well I finaly figured out what I want to do with my 67 c20, I want to put it in the 11s, I will convert it to 1/2 ton and take a bunch of weight out, I'll get it down to around 4000. How many ponys would it take? Planning on using 66 327 or should I go bigger I also have a 400 block laying on the floor in the shed. What tranny should I use? Will a built th350 be up to the task?

Horsepower?
Tranny?
Gears?
Suspension setup?
Is it possible on a budget?

[71Dragtruck]

A 327 will never do it, 11's at 4000lbs. (plus what you weigh) will take alot more, even that 400 would have to be rank or need a shot of nitrous. I suggest a big block, your going to need around 550 to 600hp (flywheel) at that weight. What's the elevation where you live? do you at least have that on your side?

[nxtruck]

71Dragtruck is right; a 327 would have to be very high strung and very high maintenance (expense) to do what you want. A 400, however, could be built fairly easily to make around 550 or so and do what you want to do. It will take a good set of heads, decent compression, and a fairly aggressive cam to do it, though. A big block may be an easier route to go, but if you already have a 400 block, you may want to consider that.
A TH350 can be built to handle the power, but it will need to have about every heavy duty part available to handle both the power and the weight of the truck. A TH400 would be easier to build to handle what your doing with it.
Gear ratio will depend on your tire height, but I would plan on somewhere in the neighborhood of a 4.10 to a 4.56 with 29" to a 30" tall tire. A good converter will be worth the money also.
Good luck with it!

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by nxtruck

71Dragtruck is right; a 327 would have to be very high strung and very high maintenance (expense) to do what you want. A 400, however, could be built fairly easily to make around 550 or so and do what you want to do. It will take a good set of heads, decent compression, and a fairly aggressive cam to do it, though. A big block may be an easier route to go, but if you already have a 400 block, you may want to consider that.
A TH350 can be built to handle the power, but it will need to have about every heavy duty part available to handle both the power and the weight of the truck. A TH400 would be easier to build to handle what your doing with it.
Gear ratio will depend on your tire height, but I would plan on somewhere in the neighborhood of a 4.10 to a 4.56 with 29" to a 30" tall tire. A good converter will be worth the money also.
Good luck with it!

Im not gonna say its impossible to get 1.5HP/cube out of a 400 SBC- its not, but its certianly not easy. A buddy of mine built a 13:1 SBC 434 out of a 400 block, and has been extremely happy with it, real quick revving, nasty little motor. But with the money he has in it, you'd think he'd be running 9's.

A strong (not crazy, but strong) 454-496 is the way you want to go. Get yourself a pair of aftermarket heads (I almost bought a pair of aluminum pro-toplines, Edelbrock aluminum performer RPM, many people like them), or be prepared to spend quite a bit on getting some stock ones re-worked with 2.19/1,88 valves and some nice port work. Go with a cast crank and hyper/forged pistons (forged if you want to spend a lot of time on the spray), around 10:1. Nice ignition. Nice cam. Nice carb, you know the drill.

A TH400 or a glide would be much better options than your TH350. I have every heavy duty part availible in it, and no matter what- its on borrowed time. But oh well, I built it for my SBC and got a lot of use out of it. Im going to an NV4500 when mine explodes. Traction will be your enemy. You are going to want to mini-tub the rear (or find a really narrow one) and swap some nice gears, a locker/spool/LSD, and upgraded axles into it, along with a nice pair of slicks.

You arent going to be able to skimp much if you really want an 11 second time slip. Go to manual brakes/steering for weight, interior, glass hood, tubular front suspension, you can go as deep as you want.

Good luck with it, and have fun! Im not trying to discourage you in the slightest, I just want you to be realistic about how difficult this is to achieve in an old truck. I havent mentioned everything, but I've covered the basics

[pulltilbroke]

Well it doesn't sound like 11s are in my budget
Where do you guys think i'd be with a healthy 377 or 406 and i'd spray a little. I'm trying to use junk I already have.I figured 11s was a little optimistic

I got some good 461 castings and old holley strip dominator manifold
Could I break into the low 13s

[nxtruck]

If you go the small block route, build a 406 ( or bigger if you can afford it ). I've ran a couple different 377s, a 383, a 421, and now a 434, and I can tell you that torque will be your friend with a 4000 lb. truck. A cast crank, 5.565 rod 406 would be a somewhat cheap build and fairly reliable for what you're wanting to do. Good machine work, ARP bolts, and TRW or similar pistons in the bottom end would be the basics needed for it to last. Keep the n2o hits around 150-200, keep the rpms around 6500-7000, and it should be pretty reliable. Your strip dominator intake would work well with something like this.
As far as your heads go, are you trying to stay with a factory-type casting? If so, try to find a pair of vortec castings. They will out-perform the 461s you have. You will have to spend some money on them, though. The intake mounting holes will have to be drilled to use your intake ( I'm assuming it's an older intake) and figure on spending some on cleaning, magging, valve job, etc. If you can swing it, you would be better off to go with an aftermarket head, such as an AFR 220, Dart Pro-1 230, or Brodix Track 1. A head like this on a 10.5:1 406 with the right solid roller cam and a 850 or 950 carb would make around 525-535 hp and do it on pump gas. If these numbers wouldn't get the timeslip that you're wanting, then you could always spray another 150 on top of it.
Just throwin' some ideas your way. My 66' Chevy LWB, weighing in right at 3950, runs 7.20s @ 94 in the 1/8 with a mild 434 sbc on pump gas, so I have a little bit of an idea of what you're wanting to do. My truck will 60' 1.50s and this is as important as anything else that was mentioned earlier. You will have to play with moving weight around, taking weight off, spring and shock selections, tires, gear, and converter to get the truck out of the hole. Making the power is just half of the story.
Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by pulltilbroke

Well it doesn't sound like 11s are in my budget
Where do you guys think i'd be with a healthy 377 or 406 and i'd spray a little. I'm trying to use junk I already have.I figured 11s was a little optimistic

I got some good 461 castings and old holley strip dominator manifold
Could I break into the low 13s

Are you going to drive the truck on the street? Or only the strip? Bracket racing?

377's are REALLY fun motors. You can easily build them with a very wide and high revving RPM range- I've always wanted to put one in an old 280/260 Z and build an auto cross car out of it. Not really the best drag racing motor IMO, but there was a guy on the forum a while back who ran a pretty high compression alcohol 377 in a drag truck/car. I cant remember his name...

I would go the 406 route if I were you. First, take it to a machine shop and have it fluxed/sonic checked for cracks, as they are prone to over heating (research 400 blocks and you'll find out why) and cracking. While youre there, ask them what they will charge to clearance the block to make it a 434. Might as well check.

Its been a while since I spoke small block language. Im sure someone will come along and give you some spec info as far as heads/cam are concerned. GM Vortec's (already worked) from scroggin dickey will probably be the best bang for your buck, along with a moderate-high lift/duration cam. Definitely go with forged pistons and a nitrous-happy cam (around 108 LSA, and not too much overlap).

You TH350 can be beefed up to have a relatively decent life behind the 406.

13's are certainly easier to attain and perfectly realistic with that motor.

You should still go through your rear end. Remember, the weakest link in the chain is the first one to break.

Edit: typos... I just got out of a physics 2 class... my brain still isnt awake.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by nxtruck

If you go the small block route, build a 406 ( or bigger if you can afford it ). I've ran a couple different 377s, a 383, a 421, and now a 434, and I can tell you that torque will be your friend with a 4000 lb. truck. A cast crank, 5.565 rod 406 would be a somewhat cheap build and fairly reliable for what you're wanting to do. Good machine work, ARP bolts, and TRW or similar pistons in the bottom end would be the basics needed for it to last. Keep the n2o hits around 150-200, keep the rpms around 6500-7000, and it should be pretty reliable. Your strip dominator intake would work well with something like this.
As far as your heads go, are you trying to stay with a factory-type casting? If so, try to find a pair of vortec castings. They will out-perform the 461s you have. You will have to spend some money on them, though. The intake mounting holes will have to be drilled to use your intake ( I'm assuming it's an older intake) and figure on spending some on cleaning, magging, valve job, etc. If you can swing it, you would be better off to go with an aftermarket head, such as an AFR 220, Dart Pro-1 230, or Brodix Track 1. A head like this on a 10.5:1 406 with the right solid roller cam and a 850 or 950 carb would make around 525-535 hp and do it on pump gas. If these numbers wouldn't get the timeslip that you're wanting, then you could always spray another 150 on top of it.
Just throwin' some ideas your way. My 66' Chevy LWB, weighing in right at 3950, runs 7.20s @ 94 in the 1/8 with a mild 434 sbc on pump gas, so I have a little bit of an idea of what you're wanting to do. My truck will 60' 1.50s and this is as important as anything else that was mentioned earlier. You will have to play with moving weight around, taking weight off, spring and shock selections, tires, gear, and converter to get the truck out of the hole. Making the power is just half of the story.
Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes.

Sorry to hijack, but those are some impressive numbers! What rear suspension/tire are you running? Have any pics of that beast?

[nxtruck]

I'm running the factory trailing arms, an anti-roll bar, a pair of Rancho 5-way adjustable shocks, and a set of 70' Monte Carlo springs. For tires, I'm running a pair of M/T 31 X 14.5 ET Streets.
I did have some older pics of the truck on a thread on this site, but I can't seem to find them. If you look on the dragtrucks.com site, on pg. 9 ( I think ) it's the Corvette Yellow '66 on that page. In those pics it had an aero scoop on it, but I have since added a cowl hood to replace that hood.

[70rs/ss]

I think on his budget (guessing) a high 13 low 14 would be realistic. If he builds the 406 like you're talking he could do a high 12-13. I am all about a 496, torque, Torque, TORQUE in anything over 3,000 Lbs you can't move em without it. I have a 70 Camaro that I am in the process of building a 98 Vortec 383 with 062 Vortec heads, I have bought two Vortec 350 complete with heads for $150 (buildable cores) and I'll have a screamer for under $2K with cool chit like roller cam etc. etc!!

[djracer]

Buy my 468 short block and get you a decent set of heads and few other things and you will be there! You wouldn't be able to drive it on the street unless you machine some of the dome off the piston!

400's make good power but the blocks are weak!

[Couch]

weight id your killer.but IMO 11's arent that hard to achieve. but low 12's is definitely a do-able ET. im on a .030 over 350 4 bolt that i got outta the junk yard, it just happened to have hypers in it. stock 882 heads with some touching up. a healthy cam and single plane intake,a cheater plate with a 200 shot and a 750 double pumper and its good for a high 11,low 12 on juice any day high 13 low 14 on motor . stock 4.10 gears,a mini spool,stock suspension,29x10 hoosier slicks and a th350 in a 3500 lb. truck

cheap,easy and not really concerned if it breaks.just spray and pray

[pulltilbroke]

djracer pm me details on 468 and what kind of power with some heads
What are your opinions on the World products sportsman IIs
It would be nice if it was somewhat streetable
Would a stock I beam rod be up to the task in a 406

Thanks for the help and soory if this post is kinda jumbled

[68c10owner]

Just as a reference, my buddy had a 62 shortbed years ago with a 327 with stock flattops, stock 461 heads and a big crower hydraulic cam,244/252@.050 .507/.524 112LSA,scorpion intake and a 750dp carb,th350 w/3000 stall and 3.73 gears and 295/50/15 hossiers and was running low 13`s. He tuned it alot and raced it every wednesday night. He eventually built a 12:1 383 that pushed it to 11.70`s. I think he said it weighted 3800lbs without him in it.

I would build at least the 406. I found a guy on another forum with aflat top 406, home ported vortecs and a crane cam similar to the eddy rpm cam and he`s running 12.20`s in a 3800lb camaro. Should push your truck to 12.60-12.80`s.

[pulltilbroke]

Originally Posted by nxtruck

If you go the small block route, build a 406 ( or bigger if you can afford it ). I've ran a couple different 377s, a 383, a 421, and now a 434, and I can tell you that torque will be your friend with a 4000 lb. truck. A cast crank, 5.565 rod 406 would be a somewhat cheap build and fairly reliable for what you're wanting to do. Good machine work, ARP bolts, and TRW or similar pistons in the bottom end would be the basics needed for it to last. Keep the n2o hits around 150-200, keep the rpms around 6500-7000, and it should be pretty reliable. Your strip dominator intake would work well with something like this.
As far as your heads go, are you trying to stay with a factory-type casting? If so, try to find a pair of vortec castings. They will out-perform the 461s you have. You will have to spend some money on them, though. The intake mounting holes will have to be drilled to use your intake ( I'm assuming it's an older intake) and figure on spending some on cleaning, magging, valve job, etc. If you can swing it, you would be better off to go with an aftermarket head, such as an AFR 220, Dart Pro-1 230, or Brodix Track 1. A head like this on a 10.5:1 406 with the right solid roller cam and a 850 or 950 carb would make around 525-535 hp and do it on pump gas. If these numbers wouldn't get the timeslip that you're wanting, then you could always spray another 150 on top of it.
Just throwin' some ideas your way. My 66' Chevy LWB, weighing in right at 3950, runs 7.20s @ 94 in the 1/8 with a mild 434 sbc on pump gas, so I have a little bit of an idea of what you're wanting to do. My truck will 60' 1.50s and this is as important as anything else that was mentioned earlier. You will have to play with moving weight around, taking weight off, spring and shock selections, tires, gear, and converter to get the truck out of the hole. Making the power is just half of the story.
Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes.

I'm not really trying to stay with factory castings but I already have them and using them would keep costs down.

The intake was cast in 68 I think

Would this be a stout enough bottom end?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3176...ssemblies.html
It's part # 91510219 or would this be better

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3177...ssemblies.html
part #91510280 or 91510290

Or should I just buy some pistons and use the stock bottom end?

[nxtruck]

If it were me, I'd find a TRW or Speedpro piston that would give around 10.5:1 compression with the heads you plan on using and use your stock bottom end. Factory cast cranks are stronger than some people give them credit for. The factory rods will take some abuse, as well. Just make sure to install good rod bolts. I would use the parts you have and spend any extra money on the heads and valvetrain. This build would be very similar to the 383 I had about 15 years ago. Factory cast crank, stock 400 rods w/ ARP bolts, TRW #2256 forged pistons, an old pair of Sportsman iron heads, .630 lift roller, Holley strip dominator intake, and an 850 carb. This setup went 7.90s @ 87 or so in the 1/8 in my truck, all on pump gas. And I sprayed this motor with up to a 250 shot SEVERAL times and never hurt a thing. You have to really keep an eye on your tuneup when using parts like these and trying to make good power with them.

[Outlaw72]

Originally Posted by nxtruck

If it were me, I'd find a TRW or Speedpro piston that would give around 10.5:1 compression with the heads you plan on using and use your stock bottom end. Factory cast cranks are stronger than some people give them credit for. The factory rods will take some abuse, as well. Just make sure to install good rod bolts. I would use the parts you have and spend any extra money on the heads and valvetrain. This build would be very similar to the 383 I had about 15 years ago. Factory cast crank, stock 400 rods w/ ARP bolts, TRW #2256 forged pistons, an old pair of Sportsman iron heads, .630 lift roller, Holley strip dominator intake, and an 850 carb. This setup went 7.90s @ 87 or so in the 1/8 in my truck, all on pump gas. And I sprayed this motor with up to a 250 shot SEVERAL times and never hurt a thing. You have to really keep an eye on your tuneup when using parts like these and trying to make good power with them.

Very well said....I agree with all points made!

[70rs/ss]

I think the 327 might have a forged crank in it (if it is from a truck it is almost for sure forged). The 400 is a torqe motor, and N2O is free power, built a strong bottom end and good heads and squeeze the wee out of it, 250hp is pretty steep, but good fasteners (READ: ARP) and good flowing heads and you can throw a high 11's but for sure 12's. My 383 was built on a budget and I hope to see 11's but my Camaro is a 3200lb car, not a truck for sure.

[pulltilbroke]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

I think the 327 might have a forged crank in it (if it is from a truck it is almost for sure forged). The 400 is a torqe motor, and N2O is free power, built a strong bottom end and good heads and squeeze the wee out of it, 250hp is pretty steep, but good fasteners (READ: ARP) and good flowing heads and you can throw a high 11's but for sure 12's. My 383 was built on a budget and I hope to see 11's but my Camaro is a 3200lb car, not a truck for sure.

Yea, the 327 does have a forged steel crank it was a factory 300hp motor

[pulltilbroke]

Heres a few pic of the truck

[Heavy Evy]

Don't know how I stumbled on this thread but there is some very good info here!

[pulltilbroke]

Yes there is.

Even though plans have changed for the truck.

[stich626]

327 with hte 400 heads, polished rods with good arp rod bolts, splayed 4 bolt caps
forged crank,, mild cam (by todays standards, and a dual stage nos plate..
11's easy on 3900 lb's if you hook and 4.56 gears..
tranny, if a strip truck powerglide.. built..
th400 will eat 40 hp over the p/g

^^^ combo was pulled right outta someones rear section. 400Heads are u serious ? they Suck Balls A 327 in a 4k LBS truck will NEVER run 11's w/o a huge amount of added atmosphere and a crate full of hundreds, U want IT all? Do what I did and run a Duramax then u can run 12's or faster and tow ALL the trucks in this thread at the same time to the track =)

[Mechanic77]

I realize this is an old thread, but I figured I would throw out the combo I've run in my '84 pickup.

1/2 ton longbed-4200 lbs with me in it
406 SBC-stock crank/5.7 rods/hyper flat-tops (roughly 10.5:1)
487X casting heads 2.02/1.60 valves ported (by me )
Comp Cams XE262 4x4 cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake w/750cfm Holley vacuum sec.
700r4 w/very tight towing converter
12-bolt w/3.73 gears
M/T Sportsman Pro's 26x10.5

Best pass: 13.97 @ 101 mph