Freezing Brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dads72 · 01-30-2003, 10:30 PM

If it gets cold enough, my brakes freeze up. I can still stop the truck (72) by putting both feet on the peddle and pushing hard. But I never know when it's going to happen, which makes driving kinda "interesting" sometimes.
There must be moisture in there someplace. In the power booster?
How do I find it and how do I get rid of it?
Thanks

Andy4639 · 01-30-2003, 11:06 PM

Bleed the whole system down. That is the only way to get all the water out of the system. Use at least a dot 3 brake fluid when you go back with it. I have herd of this synthic stuff but I have never used it so I can't say any thing about it. I do know this though brake fluid is going to get moisture in it no matter what kind you use. Hope this helps.

oldsub86 · 01-30-2003, 11:53 PM

I have no idea if this applies to Chevy's as my truck is manual brakes but I had an 82 Honda Civic that scared me a number of times. I would start up and back out of my spot at work and all would be well. Then I would pull ahead to the street exit of the parking lot and it would be like there were no brakes. It turned out that there was a checkvalve in the hose from the manifold to the brake booster that would stick when it got cold - moisture?
I changed the hose and valve as you couldn't buy the valve by itself and that solved the problem.

68 Suburban · 01-31-2003, 12:00 AM

Odds are that your brake fluid probably has never been changed. They say you can gain up to 4% moisture a year in your fluid. You need to drain and fill with new. It will also help you avoid brake fade when your brakes get hot.

Fred T · 01-31-2003, 02:40 AM

68 Suburban is right. Go with either DOT3 or 4 fluid. Buy a fresh quart and flush the system until clean fluid comes out at each wheel. Brake manufacturers are now recommending a flush each year, but they pay their lawyers too much to cover their arses. I flush every other year.

mrein3 · 01-31-2003, 08:51 AM

Yes flush the system but before you start change the fluid in the master cylinder. Use a turkey baster or similar device and suck the fluid out but leave a touch so you don't introduce any air. Make sure you don't pump the pedal until you top it back off with fresh fluid.

Then start bleeding at the wheels and push that nice fresh fluid through the system.

Another nice trick when changing brake fluid is to put a clear hose on the bleeder and route that into a glass jar. That way you can see when only clear fluid is coming out. (Plus it won't squirt out all over your garage and the car next to it)

Longhorn Man · 01-31-2003, 02:38 PM

Is the DOT4 the synthetic stuff? If so i'd say stay away from it on a street vehicle.

68 Suburban · 01-31-2003, 02:53 PM

Dot 3 and 4 are compatible. You do not want to put synthetic in your sysem, which I believe is Dot 5.

Here is a great link on brakes:

http://subtopics.freeyellow.com/Brakes.htm

**passthebuck** · 01-31-2003, 03:06 PM

Now I know I'm gonna catch h**l for this BUT of the dot3 stuff, i reccomend the F@#D stuff. The F@#d stuff is rated to way higher a temp than the chev stuff. I'm sure that it cant make a huge difference but I look at it from the angle that as brakefluid ages, its boiling point falls off, so I figure that if I put the f@#d stuff in that it'll stay better longer... Just one mans opinion...

01-30-2003, 10:30 PM	#1
Dads72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 427	Freezing Brakes If it gets cold enough, my brakes freeze up. I can still stop the truck (72) by putting both feet on the peddle and pushing hard. But I never know when it's going to happen, which makes driving kinda "interesting" sometimes. There must be moisture in there someplace. In the power booster? How do I find it and how do I get rid of it? Thanks

01-30-2003, 11:06 PM	#2
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	Water Bleed the whole system down. That is the only way to get all the water out of the system. Use at least a dot 3 brake fluid when you go back with it. I have herd of this synthic stuff but I have never used it so I can't say any thing about it. I do know this though brake fluid is going to get moisture in it no matter what kind you use. Hope this helps. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

01-30-2003, 11:53 PM	#3
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	I have no idea if this applies to Chevy's as my truck is manual brakes but I had an 82 Honda Civic that scared me a number of times. I would start up and back out of my spot at work and all would be well. Then I would pull ahead to the street exit of the parking lot and it would be like there were no brakes. It turned out that there was a checkvalve in the hose from the manifold to the brake booster that would stick when it got cold - moisture? I changed the hose and valve as you couldn't buy the valve by itself and that solved the problem. __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide

01-31-2003, 12:00 AM	#4
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	Odds are that your brake fluid probably has never been changed. They say you can gain up to 4% moisture a year in your fluid. You need to drain and fill with new. It will also help you avoid brake fade when your brakes get hot. Last edited by 68 Suburban; 01-31-2003 at 03:06 AM.

01-31-2003, 02:40 AM	#5
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	68 Suburban is right. Go with either DOT3 or 4 fluid. Buy a fresh quart and flush the system until clean fluid comes out at each wheel. Brake manufacturers are now recommending a flush each year, but they pay their lawyers too much to cover their arses. I flush every other year. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

01-31-2003, 08:51 AM	#6
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,254	Yes flush the system but before you start change the fluid in the master cylinder. Use a turkey baster or similar device and suck the fluid out but leave a touch so you don't introduce any air. Make sure you don't pump the pedal until you top it back off with fresh fluid. Then start bleeding at the wheels and push that nice fresh fluid through the system. Another nice trick when changing brake fluid is to put a clear hose on the bleeder and route that into a glass jar. That way you can see when only clear fluid is coming out. (Plus it won't squirt out all over your garage and the car next to it) __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

01-31-2003, 02:38 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Is the DOT4 the synthetic stuff? If so i'd say stay away from it on a street vehicle.

01-31-2003, 02:53 PM	#8
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	Dot 3 and 4 are compatible. You do not want to put synthetic in your sysem, which I believe is Dot 5. Here is a great link on brakes: http://subtopics.freeyellow.com/Brakes.htm

01-31-2003, 03:06 PM	#9
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Now I know I'm gonna catch h**l for this BUT of the dot3 stuff, i reccomend the F@#D stuff. The F@#d stuff is rated to way higher a temp than the chev stuff. I'm sure that it cant make a huge difference but I look at it from the angle that as brakefluid ages, its boiling point falls off, so I figure that if I put the f@#d stuff in that it'll stay better longer... Just one mans opinion... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car



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