Electrical problem?

[PHOENIX]

I'm losing electrical and the engine is shutting off.

When this happens I have headlights, but no ignition power, no instrument power, no turn signals, & no heater power.

At first I thought it was my old alarm system. As sometimes it would just start going off while I was driving. I removed the alarm system and it didn't solve the problem. Then out of nowhere it started working again. So I'm thinking lose connection or bad component somewhere. I checked all the wires the alarm was attached to and everything seems good.

Well yesterday I was driving down the street about 45-50mph. The engine died, not sure if the instruments (gauges) went dead or not. I pulled off the road and figured I'd be getting a tow truck. I turned everything off and turned the key. It started right up and I went on my way.

Could a bad ignition switch cause this?
Bad ground wire somewhere?
Distributor (its an MSD, a few years old)?
What to look for, where to start?

[Eyegore]

I had this problem and it turned out to be the ignition. Do you have tilt wheel steering, does it feel loose? Well on mine it was loose and kept grounding out the ignition. I removed the steering wheel and backing plate and retightened the hex head bolts holding the tilt couple together, fixed the problem. Hope this helps.

[PHOENIX]

No tilt steering wheel. My truck is seriously lacking options.
I doesn't even have A/C!

My gut feeling is ignition switch. Are they easy to replace?

[PHOENIX]

Is there any way to test the ignition switch?

[Eyegore]

I don't know of a way to test but it depends on your own ability as to whether it is easy or not. You have to remove the steering wheel, then the plate behind the wheel (you have to remove a lock ring and someties takes a speacil tool) then the signal mechanism is exposed. You then unscrew it from the column, unplug the harness from the overall harness, feed the signal harness up through the column, installation is oposite of removal.
I suggest you head over to the wrecking yard to look at some already apart. Ecology on 27 Ave & Harrison (downtown phx) had several trucks apart, you may even want to pickup a tilt a install it, but thats a different procedure.
Hope you find the problem.

[PHOENIX]

Thanks for the help Eyegore.

I don't know what years are different, but my '83 has the ignition switch on top of the column, behind the gauges.

Here is what i had to do:

1. disconnect the battery
2. put key in off position
3. remove the gauge cluster
4. unplug and remove the neutral safety switch (for manual transmission)
5. remove the two column clamp nuts (15mm) at firewall in engine compartment
6. remove the two column nuts (15mm) behind gauge cluster
7. support column from top of dash framing with some cable ties
8. unplug wire harness from ignition switch
9. remove two ignition switch screws (5/16")
10. make sure new ignition switch is in the off position
11. place new switch over actuating rod
12. assembly is reverse

I still don't know if this is my problem, but I figured its likely and the part is only $25 (ECHIN, from Napa). Its a USA made switch.

I disassembled (ripped apart) the old switch. I couldn't tell for sure is the switch was bad. It did appear worn and some black around one of the contacts.

Hopefully its fixed

EDIT (Aug. 1, 08): Well its not fixed.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=301501

[old Rusty C10]

what i would do too for added measure is to wiggle the wires where they go into the firewall and make sure the connection is tight.. also check all the other connections you see but from what you describe im kinda thinking ignition switch myself..