02-16-2003, 11:09 PM | #1 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
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rebuild or replace?
Well, Ive bleed my brakes 11 times now, getting bubbles in the back every time. Ive replaced both front brake lines, and replaced all the brake fluid. The front left caliper has been replaced. Still the brakes arent working correctly.
Im not sure what the heck is going on. One thing: the left rear brake didnt push much [if any] fluid out the last time I bleed it. Im going to see if its clogged somewhere, and if not then Im guessing my only choice left is to replaced the master cylender. Should I rebuild it, or buy a rebuilt one from NAPA?
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
02-16-2003, 11:16 PM | #2 |
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NAPA
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1979 K-10 Silverado (work in progress) 1991 V1500 Subruban 1999 Suburban LT 4x4 2006 Suburban LTZ (daily driver) |
02-17-2003, 12:33 AM | #3 |
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i would just replace with a napa. more trouble than its worth to rebuild it IMO. i've had them apart and they are a pita to mess with.
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
02-17-2003, 01:19 PM | #4 |
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Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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I have the lifetime warranty mast cycl. from autozone. It works ok, but after about a year to a year in a half it starts leaking. Usually a gasket or something. Other then that it just keeps going. Im gonna replace this one for free, but after that I think I might go new GM. What do you guys think about new GM master cycl? Tom I say replace it, dont waste your time on it. Napa is supposed to have the best rebuilts around, out of the stores. I have had a few friends who have gotten them and not had any problems, couple years nows.
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02-17-2003, 06:38 PM | #5 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,748
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Before I run out and buy this master cylender, can you guys think of anything else Im missing?
When driving, my brake light stays on. I dont get any brakes until Im at least half way threw the pedal travel, then it starts. It feels like Im only getting half my brakes, whether it be just the fronts, just the rears, or a little of all. If I pump the brakes, the light stays on until I release the pedal, then for a split second it goes out. Every time I bleed the brakes, I get more air out the back. There are no splits in the lines, no fluid leaking out anywhere.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
02-17-2003, 06:43 PM | #6 |
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You dont have any leaks in the system anywhere do you? Check everything very very well. Follow each line and feel them with your hand to make sure none are leaking. One single little leak can cause many problems in your brake system.
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02-17-2003, 08:00 PM | #7 |
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power brakes or manual?
checked your booster? (if power) make sure vacuum is good. also, try braking with engine off. see if it brakes the same way. if bubbles in line, work out each line again. check for leakage. hope this helps, good luck!!! |
02-17-2003, 08:05 PM | #8 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,748
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thanks for the help guys. Its power brakes. Vaccum to them is good. The only problem I had before I dis-connected the rear lines for the flip kit is every once in a great while the brakes would get spongy and the pedal would travel a ways down before it would brake. Releasing the pedal and pushing again always solved the problem. Since it only happens about once a month, I didnt worry about it.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
02-17-2003, 11:54 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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02-19-2003, 12:25 AM | #10 |
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Bleed the prop. valve this should center the piston in the valve, you will know it when the light goes off. do this last after you have bleed all four corners!!
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02-19-2003, 02:34 AM | #11 |
Whats this wire for?....
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Barrie, Ontario, CANADA
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I don't want to hijack Tom's post, but how do you bleed the Proportioning valve? would it cause the rears to lock up under light braking if it was bad?
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02-19-2003, 11:05 AM | #12 |
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With foot pressure on the brake peddel crack the nut on the front lines and then the rear lines. There is a piston that moves in the direction of the fulid loss to stop the flow of brake fulid, and this in turn makes contact with the wire connection on top of the prop. valve and turns on the light in the dash, I beleive that is how it all works. It did for me when I put one on my 55 GMC.
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53 TuTone Extended Cab 350 4-Spd 3:08 (SOLD) 53 Chevy Moldy pearl green ZZ-4 4L60E 9" 3:25 55 GMC 1st Black Mll (ZZ4) ZZ6 TKO 600 5 sp 3:73 62 Solidaxle Corvette Roman Red (327 340hp 4spd 3:36) C4 & C5 suspension tube chassis LS 3 4L70E 65 Corvette Coupe 327 350hp 4spd 4:11 78 Black Silverado SWB (350/350) 5.3 & 4L60E 3:42 2000 S-Type 3.0 (wife cruiser) 2003 GMC SCSB 5.3 4L60E 3:42 |
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