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02-09-2002, 09:42 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Liberal, Ks, Us
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Power Steering Conversion
I purchased a steering gearbox, pump, and the lower portion of the steering column off a 1976 chevy 1/2 ton. I want to install it on my 1964 chevy 1/2 ton. I know Classic Performance sells a kit, but has anyone ever done this conversion without a kit? If so, what problems did you encounter?
Shorty |
02-09-2002, 06:20 PM | #2 |
Strongman Garage
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Salinas, CA
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the "kit" they sell is a bracket. which is fairly inexpensive
anthor option is to heat the frame up with a torch than hit it HARD with a ball pen hammer to "dimple" the frame like on later model trucks.... than 1 or two of the factory holes should line up with the steering box..... bolt those in and drill out the other ones ------------------ My Truck pictures www.xframeimpala.com 68 4x4 short fleetside 327 CH465 edelbrock intake and carb MSD distributor its the "SHAGROLET" 56 big window short stepside 235 dual 1 brls 64ImpalaSS 327 70 C10 LWB fleetside custom/10 350/TH350 IM me on aol SN= SHAGROLET
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02-09-2002, 06:21 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
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Shorty,
I haven't done it personaly,But this might give you some head-up info.http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htm |
02-11-2002, 01:25 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Smithville TN, USA
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The conversion kit is easy and hard to get wrong. There are actually two plates in the kits, a plate that actually supports the gearbox, and an inner plate which acts as a frame brace so that the new gearbox will not cause any frame warpage. I did my 64 pickup and it was just a bolt on procedure. Bolt on the plate using the original holes, then drill out the new holes using the outer plate as a guide. I wouldn't heat the frame because it might weaken it. You wouldn't want the frame to break while taking a hard, fast curve but that's my opinion.
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02-11-2002, 01:29 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Smithville TN, USA
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I would also get the rest of the front end of the 76 1/2 ton and bolt it up to the 64 frame. It is almost as simple as putting on power steering and you will have disc brakes. That's what I did to my 64'. Now if I could only finish up the rest of it......
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02-13-2002, 05:38 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2001
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Thanks guys. I've thought about the kit, but $95.00 is just to much for 2 plates and bolts. However, i do realize they put in the engineering. I read a message on the net once where a guy installed power steering without the use of the kit. Just can't find that site.
Jaminew, I've heard one can swap out total frontends like that. I wish to retain the 6 lug wheels. (Yes, there is also a kit for that). When you did yours, did you change out the master cyclender to power? Shorty |
02-14-2002, 04:58 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Smithville TN, USA
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shorty,
Well, I plan to but I haven't yet. To tell the truth, I have just started to put the body back onto the frame. I have read that a 69-72 will almost bolt right up, but the actuator rod will have to be modified to work with the booster. Oh, and Chevy Duty has a kit for 59.95 for the power steering conversion. When I get to the point where I am installing the booster onto my 64 I'll let you know how the installation goes. jamiew |
02-25-2002, 07:14 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Liberal, Ks, Us
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OK, here is the scoop. I just finished bolting up the power steering box from a '76 chevy pickup onto my '64. I'm not finished, but you don't need a kit. Just take good measurements and bolt it on.
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03-09-2002, 11:22 PM | #9 |
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Location: Liberal, Ks, Us
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Guys, I completed the power steering conversion today. Nothing to it. Utilize teh forist lower mounting bolt hole from the original steering box. That is you begining point. Take good measurements, and match the measurements. You will need to fabricate spacers to mount the later model sterring box as it is not flat on the mouting side. The pitman arm will bolt right into the drag line. When you purchase the steering box, also get the first section of the the steering shaft. This it the collapsible portion of the shaft. Cut it off about 6" above the rag joint. the inside dimeter of the tube is 3/4", that same as the OD of the stock steering shaft. Cut off about 6" of the stock shaft about 6" above the rag joint. it will slip down into the later modle shaft you have cut off. Use the trial & error method to determine the exact length needed to reach teh steering wheel. once you have done that, weld the rag joint to the stock shaft. Put the shaft into the column first, bold on the steering box, slide the rag joint into place, bold on the pumb, hook up the lines, and you are in business.
Easy....... |
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