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Old 05-10-2009, 02:13 PM   #26
SCOTI
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Re: tubular motor mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69trk View Post
....I guess that if my new headers hit my lower a-frame again, i'll have to put some spacers underneath the tubular mounts. To bad they don't make a mount that's inbetween the 2 sizes that they have. I have also figured out that just a few washers can make a big difference!!!!
I made 'shims' for the POL mounts. I traced the bottom mounting surface on some cardboard (the part that sits on the c.member). I then transferred the template to the appropriate steel in the thickness of choice. Worked well for my application so keep it in mind (looks more solid than washers too....).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 05-10-2009 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 05-10-2009, 02:15 PM   #27
SCOTI
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Re: tubular motor mounts

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Originally Posted by regan wilson View Post
When I changed over to my brodix 10.600 deck block I had to lower my motor in the frame half an inch . So I just lowered the tranny mount half an inch to keep it at the same angle . Since you cant adjust your pinion angle on a trailing arm you might check the angle with the tranny in both positions and see which one best suits you .
Pinion adjusting shims are available for truck arm suspensions too.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 05-10-2009 at 02:16 PM.
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