Brake question for you folks

[drjenkins]

Alrighty, so I've had some serious problems with my brakes a couple weeks ago. I was pushing to the floor and getting no response. So of course I need to fix them. My question being: Since I'm dealing on a limited budget, would it be more advisable to just do a power booster with the dual master cylinder, or go full bore and do the front discs? Pros/cons of both if you could please.

I'm trying to make sure that I stay grounded on this whole resto-mod as much as I can. But I also want to make it safe enough to trust driving my wife and daughter around in it when it's done. Since I'm really green on all things automotive, I wanted to run it by people more experienced than me. Thanks!

Oh, by the way, It's got 6 lug wheels now, is there any reason to swap out for 5 lug? I've seen the disc brake kits are about $100 more for the 6 lug. Just wondering...

dave

[jonzcustomshop]

The original system will work just fine, if rebuilt, the wheel cylinders should be around $12 each, and I think $30 for the original style master cylinder.
It sounds like you might have a bad wheelcylinder. check behind the tires for fluid , one or more will probably be wet.

[TR65]

DR,

I put my 65 brake system up to new specs but even then I didn't consider that the brakes were safe on the freeway in heavy traffic. Funny, they seemed OK when I was driving it in the late 60's.

My first mod was to upgrade to 4 wheel power discs (kept the 6 lug). The rear discs were overkill but the result is really good brakes. No concern on the freeway now.

It was a bit of a job though, maybe not the place to start if you haven't done much auto work.

TR

[MikeN]

I rebuilt the stock brakes on my 64. They work great. Unless you drive like a teenager (speeding, tailgating, swapping lanes, etc) the stock, non-power-assist drums are fine. Rebuild with good quality cylinders, linings, hoses, and hardware kits and you are good to go.

[sidthirteen]

Also might want to check for fluid underneath the dash on the inside of the firewall. That happened to me a few weeks ago. I got in and the pedal went to the floor! I check inside the wheels for fluid ,but it was clean. I checked underneath the dash and there it was... The master cylinder was leaking.... If you got limited cash flow, you can get a rebuild kit for it.......

[drjenkins]

Originally Posted by sidthirteen

Also might want to check for fluid underneath the dash on the inside of the firewall. That happened to me a few weeks ago. I got in and the pedal went to the floor! I check inside the wheels for fluid ,but it was clean. I checked underneath the dash and there it was... The master cylinder was leaking.... If you got limited cash flow, you can get a rebuild kit for it.......

I'll check that out tonight! Thanks!!

[Alan's Classic]

If there isn't any fluid leaking anywhere the master cylinder could be bypassing inside. It's happened to me a long time ago.

Good Luck with the budget. I don't like budgets.

[Ghostwhite]

I am in the process of troubleshooting the brakes on my 62 clutch/brake master also. The reservoir was empty but damp when i got the truck and it had no brakes. the clutch "works" but the brake pedal is like a wet noodle. the only time i can get any pressure is when its running(vibrating) and i pump furiously. The pedal will get slightly stiff and it will have a smidgen of stopping power for as long as i pump every few seconds.

After that it starts dripping from the bottom of the mc reservoir case probably from the piston rod seals.

does this sound like the leak is the problem or air in the lines?? I ordered a rebuild kit today should be here tomorrow

i dont mean to thread jack!