steering wheel play

[madaca]

Is there any way to adjust steering wheel play. Mine seems to have a little bit of play to it. Is it something that can be adjusted or does something need to be replaced?

[madaca]

Here is a picture of where the play is at. I hope you can see it ok. Is there anything to adjust on this? Its the part that the rod feeds into.

[Deryl]

First I would replace the rag joint. They are available at most parts stores cheap. You just grind the rivits holding the old joint together and pull it apart. You will find that the new one is a LOT stiffer and it will remove a lot of the slop. Then grease all of the front end. The difference in doing these two things should be quite noticable assuming everything else is in decent shape. Otherwise, if the play is in the steering box itself, that can be adjusted. I will let someone with more experience than me explain that process.

[madaca]

Thanks Deryl for the info. It does seem to be in the steering box. Its just a little left and right play. When it passes that one point the steering feels great. I am just hoping that maybe It is something that can be adjusted before i go adding something else to my list of things to buy. I see a nut on top of the box that threads into it but am not sure what that is. I will see if anyone else has any suggestions as well. Thanks again.

[protrash64]

Loosen the nut on top of the gear box and then tighten the allen shaft going down thru the center. Then retighten the nut. I would make very small adjustments. Also, do the services previously recommended. You should see an improvement in the slop.

[srsummers]

Plus you could consider replacing the bearings in the steering colum. My bearings went out and trashed my colum rod.

Protrash
Is your truck still manual steering?

[madaca]

ok, so when I loosen this nut I then back out the bolt that runs down the middle of the nut..right? Mine has a slot in the bolt. It looks like that pulls up the arm that is below the steering box. There is a pretty good gap there. Should I start to feel a difference as I tighten the bolt up? How far is too much? Thanks so much for all the info. First time I ever did anything like this so I want to make sure I do it right.

[joe231]

Courtesy of: Parts Mike Parts
(530) 885-0673
750 Perry Ranch Rd
Auburn, CA 95603

Saginaw Steering Box Adjustment

The nut and screw adjust Worm bearing Preload and Sector shaft mesh. NOTE! The steering gear must be out of the vehicle to adjust it on all 1974 and later Saginaw rotary gear units. The earlier models can be adjusted (sector shaft preload) on vehicle. Here is the manner that GM Saginaw Division recommends how to adjust. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft, completely back off the sector shaft adjusting screw on the sector shaft cover. Center steering on the "high point" then attach an inch lb torque wrench to the steering wheel shaft, the torque required to keep the shaft moving for one complete turn should be 1/2 - 2 in lbs. If the torque is not within these limits, loosen the thrust bearing locknut or tighten valve sleeve adjuster plug to bring the preload within limits. Tighten the thrust bearing locknut and recheck preload. Slowly rotate the steering shaft several times, then center the steering on high point. Now, turn the sector shaft adjusting screw until a steering shaft torque of 3 - 6 in lbs more is required to move the worm through the center point. Tighten the sector shaft locknut to 35 ft lbs and recheck the sector mesh adjustment. Total steering gear preload should be 14 in lbs or less. Install the pitman arm and replace back in vehicle. To try and adjust the sector shaft screw without doing the preceding will DAMAGE the steering gear. Most of the play is not in the sector shaft adjustment, it is the spool valve area.

I have heard many advise against adjusting the preload and mesh.....if there is play it usually means you box is worn out.
I have also heard that adjusting it can cause the box to lock up at a very inopportune time....and/or the box will eat its self in a short period of time

sounds like a good time to do a power steering swap...

[protrash64]

Didnt know that stuff, Joe!!!!!! Damn your getting technical....these trucks are supposed to be easy to work on! I wasnt trying to get madaca off in the weeds, Ive tightened them a little bit to get rid of some slop...it's not a total fix by any means. My buddy did it and he locked his column up and almost wrecked.

[madaca]

I think I will just need to replace my steering box sometime in the next couple of months. Maybe I can find a used one around here somewhere and get it sooner. Thanks for all the help everyone.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Didnt know that stuff, Joe!!!!!! Damn your getting technical....these trucks are supposed to be easy to work on! I wasnt trying to get madaca off in the weeds, Ive tightened them a little bit to get rid of some slop...it's not a total fix by any means. My buddy did it and he locked his column up and almost wrecked.

Originally Posted by madaca

I think I will just need to replace my steering box sometime in the next couple of months. Maybe I can find a used one around here somewhere and get it sooner. Thanks for all the help everyone.

say it with me "POWER STEERING"

[madaca]

how much would power steering set me back?

[protrash64]

I think the high dollar part is the gear box. If you can find a truck being parted or in the wrecking yard you'd be off and running. Then depending on your engine, how to mount the pump.

[joe231]

yeah the REZ conversion kit is $59.95 plus shipping (classic parts has cheap shipping)

http://www.classicparts.com/1960-66-...ctinfo/76-979/

then you need a gearbox from one of the following: 73-87 2wd pick-ups, 73-91 2wd burbs, 73-91 2wd crew cabs, 73-91 2wd blazers along with the pitman arm and pump with brackets to fit your engine.....I believe 1980 is when they GM switched to the metric fittings on the pump and gearbox....my '80 is metric anyway....if you have a local pick and pull yard you should be able to get the stuff pretty cheap

[madaca]

Thanks for the info. I do have a u-pull-it place close buy. I was out there a couple of weeks ago and they have a lot of old trucks out back. I will make another trip for this conversion when I get some cash. Is it pretty easy to do? I have the 283 v8 engine.

[protrash64]

I thought it was easy. The hardest part is cutting and re-welding the steering shaft. The rest bolts on. You also need to check the heads on your engine for accessory bolt holes. The early small blocks didnt have them, but they can be drilled and tapped for them.

I think Joe231 has pics of the early style power steering pump brackets. I'm only familiar with 69 and up.

[joe231]

I agree with protrash, it ain't a big deal...and most everyone that has done it wishes they would have done the conversion first before anything else.

I assume you have a short water pump and the heads with no accessory holes...there are a few ways to go with the brackets for the pump and your engine.

I got some factory brackets from Captainfab. I will try to find some pics.
I know LILRED66 (Tony) had several sets of the brackets...or if you google short water pump power steering brackets (or sbc swp power steering brackets) there are some cool ones out there for sale.

Good luck!!

[madaca]

After tightening my steering wheel down today the play in the steering seems to have got much better. I had stripped the threads in the steering shaft and had to rethread it in order to get my steering wheel tightened down nice and good. I will still be looking to upgrade in the future though. Thanks for all the help

[Nate003]

do you guys know if that bracket from rez will work on a 67 that has the hydrualic assist and i want to upgrade to a 72 integral setup. thanks